The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.

[sinnedk]

@coolron nice write up

 

[coolron]

I realized that the new seasons of A1923 footwear seem to be closed channel as well, so that part of my criticism is invalid now

 

[nicelynice]

Cheers, thanks for the write-up. I recognize that A1923 construction is "rough," I wasn't sure how much that was on purpose to go with the aesthetic or simply sloppy construction. I like it in a stupid wabi-sabi kind of way, they really do feel handmade.

Petrosolaum handmade stuff is really nice -- wooden nails like M moria, beautiful stitchwork, clean construction, and unique lasts. None of the shoes really feel like an iteration on Carpe, which is nice. Also nice to have a MtO order program under $1000.

 

[t3hg0suazn]

Great writeup @coolron , very informative.

Does Petrosolaum have any lasts where the toebox isn't square or bulbous?

 

[coolron]

I really do like the look of Petrosolaum and would love to get a pair one day. It's just hard for me to buy footwear without having tried anything from the brand in person.

@t3hg0suazn H. Lorenzo has a few pairs that look quite sleek

 

[nyarkies]



 M_moria is ridiculously expensive but the price would be comparable to what a mto boot in shell cordovan would be from someone like St. Crispins.

Maybe against St. Crispin but not against Meccariello's Aurum line which blows M_moria out of the water pound for pound with the only difference is the aesthetics. At close to the M_moria's boot's price point, you can also get a shell cordovan boot that is adjusted to your feet's measurement. Semi-bespoke basically. You get an initial test pair which is goodyear welted that is good for daily use. From there, final adjustments on fit are made on the actual pair. Uppers are hand dyed as well with very refined details. Included is a pair of custom 3-piece shoe trees. You get much more and that's why I consider M_moria overpriced, which seems it's becoming a running joke with Altieri's works.

 

[coolron]

Oh yeah, I totally forgot about Meccariello, I wonder if they have a rounder last with a wide toe

 

[skeen7908]

I assume the materials these guys use (barring horween shell) is super cheap?
Much cheaper than the leather bespoke makers might use

Would likely be the hides that would be rejected by proper shoe makers because of flaws etc
And I don't know how much horse hides (most frequently used leather in these type of shoes) really cost as there probably isn't a huge demand except for the shell

Kudu, bison, kangaroo etc are probably the same deal ?


I guess it's really only object dying which might add substantial expense (guidi, ccp)

I've seen the videos simone has posted of his hand painting and it looks pretty rough/haphazard by design but I guess he may waste a lot of materials experimenting

 

[coolron]

Probably depends, I think I've read that A1923 buys raw hides and does a lot of the tanning and processing themselves (not sure how reliable that is since it's Simone). If they're doing that the costs for the hides themselves would be cheaper than for CM makers. However buying tanned and processed hides from Guidi isn't that much cheaper and might be more expensive than something like a nice French box calf. While the hides are cheaper, they probably spend more time and money on R&D for processing and treatments of the hides.

 

[skeen7908]

It would kind of blow my mind if CCP and A1923 were doing their own tanning
Surely they must outsource it to someone else, probably guidi or similar

 

[uzairh]

On Savile Row:

Spoiler: Bonus!

With a friend in London:

 

[oulipien]

It depends on 2 things:

1) Dyeing technique. If a pair of boots are immersed in a water bath vs painted (rare, but there are certain colors that are done this way).
2) Leather. Some leather shrinks more than others. A pair of boots in horse will, all other things being equal, shrink less in a bath an a pair of boots in say, calf.

Really, with Guidi in particular, it's best to go with a retailer that will allow, if not refunds, then at least exchanges or store credit.

It's a total own goal on my part, since I did try a pair on and technically PN\P does allow excchanges—but after trying them on my apartment and thinking "close enough" I then wore them all afternoon and they're not really exchangeable anymore. (I mean, I could ask, but I'd be very surprised). The odd thing is that it's actually the same model, leather, and color (black horse PL2). :shrug: an insole will work for now but if they stretch that'll suck. Shoulda just bought local!

 

[bdude]

^^ insole them! Pnp would do exchange or store credit but only unworn items ( also it is a hussle when international shipping with duties taxes etc)

 

[sinnedk]

^what he said.

Don't ask pn\p to accept used boots back. They are a small shop and that's just unfair.

Alternative can be to just clean them and sell. Accept a mild loss and take this as a learning lesson.

 

[Fraiche]



@Fraiche wonder if L0 replies to emails, i bet it would be a great PR move from them to just replace the boot cuz of this stupidity but its also completely not their fault and L0 is not a big global brand may not have that kind of cash to eat.

I have no clue how to contact them tbh. I highly doubt they can absorb the cost and honestly, I think the sole work would cost an arm and a leg (more than $200 USD) cause of the finish.