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***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by jet, Nov 3, 2008.

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  1. Papa Doble

    Papa Doble Senior member

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    Not surprising.
     


  2. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    There will be subtle fit differences between types of leathers. This fit difference has everything to do with the properties of the leather (thickness, malleablility, ability to stretch, etc.). On initial fitting, the difference is often caused by how tightly the leather can be stretched over the last. For example, cowhide shoes may run a half size larger than the same shoe made from calfskin. Down the road, and after the shoes have been thoroughly broken in, some leathers will give more than others, effecting fit.

    None of these differences have anything to do with the welt, however. Alden uses different welts for their shoes and boots, and you can get the same boot with different welts, depending upon the makeup. A storm-welt and a Goodyear-welt are not mutually exclusive, and they have nothing to do with fit. Goodyear-welted shoes all use the same basic method of construction, but different welts can be used in the manufactering process (a storm-welt is one of these). The welt exists to bind the upper, insole, and outsole together, and provide a basis for easy resoling while keeping the rest of the shoe together. There is some inconsistency between shoe manufacterers when it comes to welt terminology. Some call them Split-Reverse Storm Welts, for example. It is really more of an aesthetic addition to the shoe to give it a heavier appearance.

    True storm welts (see this source: http://www.barbourcorp.com/pdf/welting_catalog.pdf) are built slightly differently and have more of a rounded bead effect up against the leather. It will act more like weatherstripping on a door. It will do a bit more to keep water out, but even they are not perfect. It is simply the best that can really be expected short of going to more modern methods and materials such as Gore-tex or using molded rubber soles that bond to the leather upper like many hiking/work/hunting boots.

    Sometimes you will see a line of stitching around the upturned edge of the split-reverse welt, and many people have believed that this is an additional line of stitching that is sealing the upturned edge using waxed thread to prevent water entry. This isn't the case, however. The stitching in those cases is false, and it is purely decorative. These are sometimes called "fudge welts." Alden uses these as well.

    If the shoe is Goodyear-welted, these are pretty much the main options.



    Alternatively, a Norwegian welt (not to be confused with the Norwegian Split-Toe design which is a decorative stitching of the uppers) actually has two functional rows of stitching. See this diagram:

    [​IMG]

    Therefore, if you see a shoe with two rows of stitching, first determine if it is Goodyear-welted, or Norwegian welt construction. If it is Goodyear-welted (as most high-end shoes are) then one of the above scenarios should apply. If it is Norwegian (again, not to be confused with the Norwegian Split-Toe design which is a decorative stitching of the uppers), then the crossection of this diagram is what you are looking at.

    I know you may not have wanted such a long answer, but a more thorough knowledge of the role that a welt plays in shoe construction may help you understand why it isn't an aspect of fit. Fit is determined by the shape and size of the last first, and can be slightly effected by the leather type, and insole characteristics (foam insoles vs. all leather insoles lead to different fits).
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2013


  3. MrDV

    MrDV Senior member

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  4. BeSpiffington

    BeSpiffington Senior member

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    Thank you very much Uncle.
     


  5. rydenfan

    rydenfan Senior member

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    Love these!!
     


  6. BeSpiffington

    BeSpiffington Senior member

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    Thank you sir. I am but a knave to your sartorial splendidness. I'm also very jealous of your shell collection.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2013


  7. BeSpiffington

    BeSpiffington Senior member

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    Sir, we always endeavor to do better.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2013


  8. Rishi Kakar

    Rishi Kakar Senior member

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    Thank you very much for your advice. Much Appreciate! BTW my current collection has a LWB in color 8 and ravello, a cigar NST and a black shell perf cap toe.
     


  9. sevenfoldtieguy

    sevenfoldtieguy Senior member

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    You are welcome.

    IMO the 2145 is a better option for you than the 2146, but they are each fine models, and neither is a bad choice. I suspect one day you may own them both. :fistbump:
     


  10. phototristan

    phototristan Senior member

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    bit the bullet on these and wearing today. unlined snuff suede chukkas (leydon last):


    [​IMG]


    fit is tts, but did anyone else find they had to also size up in width?
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2013


  11. Michigan Planner

    Michigan Planner Senior member

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    One of my favorites this time of year. And yes, I definitely needed an "E" width. I think that's a pretty common finding on these. So much so that Leffot normally stocks more in an "E" width than they do in the standard "D" width.
     


  12. phototristan

    phototristan Senior member

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    yeah, the store i got them from said they don't even stock D widths in these because the E fits more like a D apparently.
     


  13. Steel28

    Steel28 Senior member

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    I'm a bit worried now since my incoming 9D Laydon last unlined 1494 might be too narrow.. Anyone wears 9D in these or majority wears only E width in 1494? As I mentioned in my previous posts, I wear 8.5D in Barrie and I have a bit of room in the width.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2013


  14. phototristan

    phototristan Senior member

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    seems difficult to say; if your feet are on the narrow side, you should be fine.

    one way to tell with this shoe is if your small toe is over the welt or not, when standing, which it should not really be.
     


  15. brp2

    brp2 Senior member

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    I'm a 10d on the Barrie and went with 10.5d in the Leydon last suede chukka. I probably could've gone with an e width, as my feet are somewhat wider than normal. That said, the chukkas fit like gloves -- both in length and width -- and I think that, because they are unlined and super soft, a closer fit isn't bad. I've already walked a couple of miles in mine and had no problems.
     


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