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The Official Alden Thread for 2019 - Share Reviews, Sizing, Advice, and Photos.

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JSO1

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I have a weird rule that a fairly-priced pair of calf/cow skin shoes should cost 1/2 the price of shell cordovan shoes, assuming same maker, same quality, same style of course. So that would make the Alden non-shell shoes overpriced by my logic. If it's a rarer leather, then the equation changes.

I would sometimes get the urge to get every leather color combo from a maker, and then I'd remind myself I don't have to buy these shoes, and how many pairs of shoes do I need really?

That is a weird rule because it’s based on absolutely nothing
 

M635Guy

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I have a weird rule that a fairly-priced pair of calf/cow skin shoes should cost 1/2 the price of shell cordovan shoes, assuming same maker, same quality, same style of course. So that would make the Alden non-shell shoes overpriced by my logic. If it's a rarer leather, then the equation changes.

I would sometimes get the urge to get every leather color combo from a maker, and then I'd remind myself I don't have to buy these shoes, and how many pairs of shoes do I need really?
I don't think materials are the majority of the cost of a shoe, so I'm not sure the fairly-priced math works that way. Shell yields a single pair of shoes per "hide" where a cowhide gives you multiple pairs of shoes.

But if you're big on exotic, Alden isn't your thing...
 

Vocans

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I have a weird rule that a fairly-priced pair of calf/cow skin shoes should cost 1/2 the price of shell cordovan shoes, assuming same maker, same quality, same style of course. So that would make the Alden non-shell shoes overpriced by my logic. If it's a rarer leather, then the equation changes.

I would sometimes get the urge to get every leather color combo from a maker, and then I'd remind myself I don't have to buy these shoes, and how many pairs of shoes do I need really?

So if Alden suddenly decided to start charging $1200 for shell cordovan shoes instead of $800, you'd now view $600 for the same makeup in suede as a reasonable price? I guess you weren't kidding when you called it a weird rule.
 

TimothyF

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Even though I called it a weird rule, the more I think about it maybe it's not so weird :p. On the supply side, shell is just much rarer than calfskin, which is reflected in the price. Maybe 3-5x more by sq foot; can people who know confirm this? On the demand side, it's all about what you value. If you don't care for shell cordovan, than they're worth nothing to you. If you specifically want shell at good quality, Alden could be one of a small handful of makers. Plus some of their designs just aren't the same by other makers, and really set the standard in my view. And for those of us who don't buy used, not many other places to turn to. All this is to say that if Alden raised their cordovan price to $1200 and I feel that price isn't coming down any time soon, I'd probably stomach it for a model/last I really want, at a good retailer known for their service.

With calfskin/suede on the other hand, there are so many options, and I don't feel Alden has anywhere close to the competitive advantage with their non-shell shoes. So my choosiness is reflected in what I'd be willing to pay for Alden calfskin.

So if Alden suddenly decided to start charging $1200 for shell cordovan shoes instead of $800, you'd now view $600 for the same makeup in suede as a reasonable price? I guess you weren't kidding when you called it a weird rule.

I'd view their now $600 suede shoes in line with other makers at a similar quality point. If others also appreciated by a similar percentage, there you have it; you either need new shoes to wear or you don't.
 
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TimothyF

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I'm afraid I have left the "need" portion of the equation a long time ago, it's now a hobby or collection or whatever. I really only NEED about 3 or 4 pair, but have quite a few more :)

I find however good and convincing the little lecture I give myself, it all goes away fast when I'm face-to-face with a smiling shoe salesman. Last month, a charming Edward Green associate (with a heavy assist from yours truly) talked me into a full-price purchase, and it didn't take too long either. Interestingly, the long wait for the shoes to get across the pond has fueled a growing internal debate about the wisdom of this purchase.
 

Mr.Chest

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I find however good and convincing the little lecture I give myself, it all goes away fast when I'm face-to-face with a smiling shoe salesman. Last month, a charming Edward Green associate (with a heavy assist from yours truly) talked me into a full-price purchase, and it didn't take too long either. Interestingly, the long wait for the shoes to get across the pond has fueled a growing internal debate about the wisdom of this purchase.
That’s a fancy way to say buyers remorse
 

audog

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405's from our friends at Ealdwine this morning
IMG_0202.jpeg
 

M635Guy

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Even though I called it a weird rule, the more I think about it maybe it's not so weird :p. On the supply side, shell is just much rarer than calfskin, which is reflected in the price. Maybe 3-5x more by sq foot; can people who know confirm this?

I think it's actually more than 5x for shell vs. most cow-leathers, but I guess what I'm trying to say is it only matters so much since the material cost isn't the majority of the list price of the boot. Labor and Gross Profit are almost certainly the two biggies. (People seem to be averse to the word profit, but it's what allows the company to survive and thrive - I don't think Alden is commanding inordinate profit).

On the demand side, it's all about what you value. If you don't care for shell cordovan, than they're worth nothing to you. If you specifically want shell at good quality, Alden could be one of a small handful of makers. Plus some of their designs just aren't the same by other makers, and really set the standard in my view. And for those of us who don't buy used, not many other places to turn to. All this is to say that if Alden raised their cordovan price to $1200 and I feel that price isn't coming down any time soon, I'd probably stomach it for a model/last I really want, at a good retailer known for their service.

With calfskin/suede on the other hand, there are so many options, and I don't feel Alden has anywhere close to the competitive advantage with their non-shell shoes. So my choosiness is reflected in what I'd be willing to pay for Alden calfskin.

You do you, but I take a wholly different perspective. If Alden popped to $1200 for shell, it would turn me off entirely. I dislike Viberg in general (not a fan of Brett), but some of their shell stuff has looked really great. Charging $1200 for it (vs. ~$750 for their cow leather stuff) seems opportunistic, and I'm just not going to do it. Shell is far more expensive than cow, and harder to work with, but that price sets me on the wrong side of the demand curve. It wouldn't be any different with Alden. Even the current prices are putting me in the mode where it would have to be rare shell for the money.

As far as the leather and suede offerings, it's a simpler thing for me: they just look and feel better than almost anything else (though I'm a big fan of Grant Stone's stuff, which is definitely inspired by the Alden aesthetic with a much more casual twist and different vibe with leathers). For my eyes, AE has a few things they do really well (Strand, McAllister and their "-mok" derivatives, the Higgins Mill boot) and a bunch of stuff that just doesn't do it for me. I find their Dalton boot awkward, and no other wingtip boot appeals to me the way Alden's does (Trickers, C&J and others have good ones, but I just don't click like the Alden pattern).

Net: I like "regular" Alden leather for their looks and they are higher quality than most others, and thus their prices are the high side of justifiable, but worth it.
 

savvysartorial

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I think it's actually more than 5x for shell vs. most cow-leathers, but I guess what I'm trying to say is it only matters so much since the material cost isn't the majority of the list price of the boot. Labor and Gross Profit are almost certainly the two biggies. (People seem to be averse to the word profit, but it's what allows the company to survive and thrive - I don't think Alden is commanding inordinate profit).



You do you, but I take a wholly different perspective. If Alden popped to $1200 for shell, it would turn me off entirely. I dislike Viberg in general (not a fan of Brett), but some of their shell stuff has looked really great. Charging $1200 for it (vs. ~$750 for their cow leather stuff) seems opportunistic, and I'm just not going to do it. Shell is far more expensive than cow, and harder to work with, but that price sets me on the wrong side of the demand curve. It wouldn't be any different with Alden. Even the current prices are putting me in the mode where it would have to be rare shell for the money.

As far as the leather and suede offerings, it's a simpler thing for me: they just look and feel better than almost anything else (though I'm a big fan of Grant Stone's stuff, which is definitely inspired by the Alden aesthetic with a much more casual twist and different vibe with leathers). For my eyes, AE has a few things they do really well (Strand, McAllister and their "-mok" derivatives, the Higgins Mill boot) and a bunch of stuff that just doesn't do it for me. I find their Dalton boot awkward, and no other wingtip boot appeals to me the way Alden's does (Trickers, C&J and others have good ones, but I just don't click like the Alden pattern).

Net: I like "regular" Alden leather for their looks and they are higher quality than most others, and thus their prices are the high side of justifiable, but worth it.

Bingo. I have no clue why Viberg charges what they do, except I guess that the market can bear it and people will buy. :slapfight:

I shudder to think where Alden prices will be in a couple of years as they keep going up. AE's prices have been flat for some time which is really nice.
 

Vocans

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Bingo. I have no clue why Viberg charges what they do, except I guess that the market can bear it and people will buy. :slapfight:

I shudder to think where Alden prices will be in a couple of years as they keep going up. AE's prices have been flat for some time which is really nice.

Thanks to inflation, everything ultimately goes up in price over time. Either you adjust your prices accordingly or you cut your costs (often times at the sacrifice of quality). AE has been doing more of the latter for a while now, whereas Alden's price increases generally track close to the standard inflation rate.
 
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