The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[bernoulli]

No, I wanted to see if they had a St. Crispin that I could try on to find my fit. No such luck. Instead, I may order a pair from ACME. The sales guy (very knowledgeable, by the way) told me the next trunk show will be in a couple of months. They will try to find something in my size in the last I want (I am just a 10.5UK but they had almost nothing in that size in the store). We will see.

Were you there for their ACME trunk show?

 

[Zapasman]

I can't recall having ever said anything about an Austrian heritage of that style of shoe. The split-toe and apron design is generally known as 'Norwegian'. Whether this shoe goes back to some historical Norwegian way of shoemaking or is just a name given to that design, I wouldn't know. The old Norwegians must have been quite prolific shoemakers, after all the humble loafer is also credited to them. Bass calls their loafers 'Weejuns', allegedly derived from Norwegians.

I would agree with calling the SC shoes featured as 'French' (inspired). That proportion (or ill-proportion) of extra-short apron and extra-long toe-seam is typical for French or Italian designs. Just pointing out for clarity, those 'seams' of apron and toe are faux, they are just decorative lines and do not join two pieces of leather.

My bad then!. I thought someone verse in shoes l8ke you posted long ago an informative post about that model saying it was austrian. I stand corrected.

 

[BomTrady]

Basically where I’m at unless I can get a better fit off ACME but that brings me back in the circular argument in my head of how nobody has any fit guidance on their RTW stuff anyways somehow.

I believe the ACME fit is very close to YF, maybe a tad bit tighter in both the heel and toe box - a negligible difference. I like the fit, construction and pretty much everything. If someone forced me to name a complaint, I would say the leather quality isn't YF, but that can be easily justified by the price difference. My only caveat is that I've never worn the ACME outside the house yet.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I believe the ACME fit is very close to YF, maybe a tad bit tighter in both the heel and toe box - a negligible difference. I like the fit, construction and pretty much everything. If someone forced me to name a complaint, I would say the leather quality isn't YF, but that can be easily justified by the price difference. My only caveat is that I've never worn the ACME outside the house yet.

How does the instep wear? That’s typically my hardest fit point. I can just barely pull off Meccariello soft square. The Yeossal lasts and YF were too high for me (I am able to wear YF with a tongue pad but still feel a little bad about adding it to the shoe)

 

[BomTrady]

How does the instep wear? That’s typically my hardest fit point. I can just barely pull off Meccariello soft square. The Yeossal lasts and YF were too high for me (I am able to wear YF with a tongue pad but still feel a little bad about adding it to the shoe)

Then I think that you'll be happy with ACME. The ACME model I have has a lower instep than rtw YF. I think it's a tighter fit overall.

 

[clee1982]

I believe the ACME fit is very close to YF, maybe a tad bit tighter in both the heel and toe box - a negligible difference. I like the fit, construction and pretty much everything. If someone forced me to name a complaint, I would say the leather quality isn't YF, but that can be easily justified by the price difference. My only caveat is that I've never worn the ACME outside the house yet.

which ACME last is this? I think they told me T89 (the one for split toe and lazyman I think) is the most generous in toe.

did you get RTW or something else?

 

[clee1982]

Also sizing reference? I was basically quoted CJ size (ie -1 from US) on ACME, never tried YF, but based on quick read I would think I need -0.5 for YF (toebox width).

 

[BomTrady]

which ACME last is this? I think they told me T89 (the one for split toe and lazyman I think) is the most generous in toe.

did you get RTW or something else?

Yes, I have the rtw split toe derby. It's the N83 last.

 

[BomTrady]

Also sizing reference? I was basically quoted CJ size (ie -1 from US) on ACME, never tried YF, but based on quick read I would think I need -0.5 for YF (toebox width).

I am not sure about that clee, I took the same size in ACME as YF. The ACME team suggested the same as G&G and the fit worked perfectly. If run down a list of shoe sizes you own, they'll quickly make a suggestion for you. If nothing else, those guys at ACME are better than anyone at sizing their shoes as they have lots of experience with other shoe brands.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Then I think that you'll be happy with ACME. The ACME model I have has a lower instep than rtw YF. I think it's a tighter fit overall.

Oh man. As good as all the reviews say? Now I’m going to have to find somewhere to hide another pair of shoes

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I believe the ACME fit is very close to YF, maybe a tad bit tighter in both the heel and toe box - a negligible difference. I like the fit, construction and pretty much everything. If someone forced me to name a complaint, I would say the leather quality isn't YF, but that can be easily justified by the price difference. My only caveat is that I've never worn the ACME outside the house yet.

I certainly thank you for providing a little more information regarding the brand. Seems there's a scarcity of both information and owners regarding ACME. At this price point, the more knowledge available the better. ??

 

[clee1982]

Actually just checked my IG chat, it says N83 for lazyman as well, and is suppose to be more accommodating

 

[clee1982]

Oh and how do you compare N83 to GG MH71 (the only GG last that’s barely wearable for me) in same size?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Oh and how do you compare N83 to GG MH71 (the only GG last that’s barely wearable for me) in same size?

That soft square MH71 last and I fought on and off for about 6 months. I won several battles, but ultimately lost the war ?.

 

[clee1982]

You still got all your toes, so I guess the lost wasn’t that bad...