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The CM Graveyard: First Sartoria Partenopea... next J. Crew?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jrd617, Jun 13, 2017.

  1. pleatedjeans

    pleatedjeans Senior Member

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    Smashburn is one of the only shops where I've only browsed online and only actually purchased things in store
     

  2. Aquafortis

    Aquafortis Senior Member

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    Understood. Thanks for indulging our digressions.
     

  3. Gus

    Gus Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    Excellent interview and one of the best I've read in GQ in years.

    Manufacturers who have known and worked with Sid for years have told me that he is, "always a cool guy". They really like him. While many independent retailers are jealous as hell of his media profile. But, after reading this interview and others, you see that he is great at interviews, summarizing his stores look, what his customers need and always offering suggestions that are usually fairly simple to pull off and won't break the bank.

    He has a point-of-view style, he isn't trying to be all things to all people and is an excellent merchant. He stores are beautifully merchandised.
     

  4. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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    Speaking of CM companies that went out of business, there is a pile of really nice Sartoria Partenopea out there now. Sartoriale on eBay has a bunch. Just grabbed this nice brown business suit for a steal. Fits very well. Looking at overcoats now.

    6A835CB6-899F-4F71-AD80-CBD91FA165E5.png
     

  5. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior Member

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    I’ve seen these but, like this one, the button stance seems absurdly high.
     

  6. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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    It’s a hair high and sort of like Canali. I like the slightly wide lapels. Tried it on after work today and I love it.
     

  7. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior Member

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    Suits some figures certainly. Would look terrible on me, but I’m sure you will wear it well.
     

  8. Gus

    Gus Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    They did a trunk show in San Francisco and brought bolts of absolutely beautiful fabrics and the construction seemed to be quite good. Unfortunately, I found the fit to be tight and short so not an easy or comfortable fit. But most of all, it didn't really have a particular style point-of-view.
     

  9. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    ugh that gorge on the shoulder line, the buttoning point at the diaphragm level :(
     

  10. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    what's really wrong? that's pretty "recent" italian jacket (high gorge, buttoning point is higher than I like but not ridiculous, and if I wore that jacket I would probably never button anyway...)
     

  11. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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    Yeah, gorge is fairly high. I don't mind the buttoning point too much as my Canali suits are somewhat similar. Fabric is quite nice and it only needs a few adjustments. Will post some pics after I get it tailored and then revisit for opinions. :hide:
     

  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    It's not you it's me, I guess. I just really dislike the neo-Napolitan stuff that's lean and high high high everywhere. You'll never see a middle-aged guy in Naples wearing that. I remember @NickPollica repeatedly saying that we were the only store asking Eidos for longer jackets, lower buttoning points - whereas everyone was clamoring for high and short, so my taste must be out of sync with what's in
     

  13. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    I like the NMWA cut, just too long for me, if I'm 2 in taller (or maybe even just 1in) I could probably take your EU46 regular..., same problem for me with Formosa EU44
     

  14. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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    I'm 6'1 and also prefer slightly lower buttoning points in general but this SP was close enough. Suit in cooler Brown color a nice addition to business suit rotation. Who says you can't wear brown in town?

    Was also happy to get this in a 52L as that size can be hard to find for me quite often.
     

  15. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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    Capture.JPG Capture2.JPG
    Two pics from Paul Stuart's new arrivals for summer. Fairly high gorge and buttoning points. Not sure what the latest trends are actually.
     

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