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The CM Graveyard: First Sartoria Partenopea... next J. Crew?

Gus

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Excellent interview and one of the best I've read in GQ in years.

Manufacturers who have known and worked with Sid for years have told me that he is, "always a cool guy". They really like him. While many independent retailers are jealous as hell of his media profile. But, after reading this interview and others, you see that he is great at interviews, summarizing his stores look, what his customers need and always offering suggestions that are usually fairly simple to pull off and won't break the bank.

He has a point-of-view style, he isn't trying to be all things to all people and is an excellent merchant. He stores are beautifully merchandised.
 

smittycl

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Speaking of CM companies that went out of business, there is a pile of really nice Sartoria Partenopea out there now. Sartoriale on eBay has a bunch. Just grabbed this nice brown business suit for a steal. Fits very well. Looking at overcoats now.

6A835CB6-899F-4F71-AD80-CBD91FA165E5.png
 

Aloysius16

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Suits some figures certainly. Would look terrible on me, but I’m sure you will wear it well.
 

Gus

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They did a trunk show in San Francisco and brought bolts of absolutely beautiful fabrics and the construction seemed to be quite good. Unfortunately, I found the fit to be tight and short so not an easy or comfortable fit. But most of all, it didn't really have a particular style point-of-view.
 

gdl203

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ugh that gorge on the shoulder line, the buttoning point at the diaphragm level :(
 

clee1982

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what's really wrong? that's pretty "recent" italian jacket (high gorge, buttoning point is higher than I like but not ridiculous, and if I wore that jacket I would probably never button anyway...)
 

smittycl

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ugh that gorge on the shoulder line, the buttoning point at the diaphragm level :(
Yeah, gorge is fairly high. I don't mind the buttoning point too much as my Canali suits are somewhat similar. Fabric is quite nice and it only needs a few adjustments. Will post some pics after I get it tailored and then revisit for opinions. :hide:
 

gdl203

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what's really wrong? that's pretty "recent" italian jacket (high gorge, buttoning point is higher than I like but not ridiculous, and if I wore that jacket I would probably never button anyway...)
It's not you it's me, I guess. I just really dislike the neo-Napolitan stuff that's lean and high high high everywhere. You'll never see a middle-aged guy in Naples wearing that. I remember @NickPollica repeatedly saying that we were the only store asking Eidos for longer jackets, lower buttoning points - whereas everyone was clamoring for high and short, so my taste must be out of sync with what's in
 

clee1982

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I like the NMWA cut, just too long for me, if I'm 2 in taller (or maybe even just 1in) I could probably take your EU46 regular..., same problem for me with Formosa EU44
 

smittycl

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It's not you it's me, I guess. I just really dislike the neo-Napolitan stuff that lean and high high high everywhere. You'll never see a middle-aged guy in Naples wearing that. I remember @NickPollica repeatedly saying that we were the only store asking for longer jackets, lower buttoning points - whereas everyone was clamoring for high and short, so my taste must be out of sync with what's in
I'm 6'1 and also prefer slightly lower buttoning points in general but this SP was close enough. Suit in cooler Brown color a nice addition to business suit rotation. Who says you can't wear brown in town?

Was also happy to get this in a 52L as that size can be hard to find for me quite often.
 

smittycl

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Capture.JPG Capture2.JPG
Two pics from Paul Stuart's new arrivals for summer. Fairly high gorge and buttoning points. Not sure what the latest trends are actually.
 

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