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The CM Graveyard: First Sartoria Partenopea... next J. Crew?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jrd617, Jun 13, 2017.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    My school has a dress code that allows for 25 Daily Dapper Points. My pants and shirt are 1 Dapper Point each. My sport coat 2 Dapper Points. My Norwegian split toes? 87 Dapper Points. So, no room for a pocket square.
     

  2. zalb916

    zalb916 Distinguished Member

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    @edmorel had good thoughts back in the day about ditching the pocket square. Frankly, most people do a shitty job at making them look coherent, or the fold/poof/whatever just looks off. I may or may not be referring to some of the last number of posts.

    I still wear one from time to time, and I still mess it up a lot. However, I find my outfits frequently benefit from resisting the urge.
     

  3. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

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    For me, pocket square always. The one time, I removed my pocket square was before a business meeting in a mid size German city. My counterpart showed up wearing a pocket square. I felt offsides the whole meeting.
     

  4. Aquafortis

    Aquafortis Senior Member

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    Appreciate everyone chiming in. Good to hear all perspectives and thoughts.
     

  5. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Partially inspired by your post (the rest is all me), I went to a local B&M and ordered a pair of Samuelsohn MTM trousers for spring/summer, and an MTO Canali suit in their underrated Capri model. The swatch I chose was featured in their look book and I was just drawn to it. Let B&M reign!
     

  6. Patrick R

    Patrick R Distinguished Member

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    I’m wearing pockets squares almost every day, but almost always white and off-white linen.
     

  7. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    I find myself going white linen 90% of the time. I wish I had known this before I bought all of those nifty drake pocket squares.

    I say this and still have been eyeing this NMWA pocket square :(.

    [​IMG]
     

  8. am55

    am55 Distinguished Member

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    Nice timing after I dumped most of my thoughts on this on HOF... Given the context of the question, this will necessarily be centered on the audience.

    I sometimes see dress as a form of Overton window tailored at the people you want interacting with you. And the square is kind of the most variable part of the entire CM thing. It is small, it is discreet, it does not follow many or any accepted rules today when most go squareless in most of the world (despite resurging popularity). To decide to wear a square, especially outside the US, is already an act of flashiness and a hint of narcissism to some.

    So in the most conservative setting, like bry above in Germany, I'd eschew the square altogether. E.g. meeting a large conservative property developer's C-level. And at conferences, my style is closer to Patrick's - if there is a square, it will be a white linen fold - but often, no square, particularly in APAC. I will always remember the near-apoplexy Jeff Hammerbacher (a Valley ex-FB big data CEO) threw some of the region's tech execs by turning up in jeans and a T-shirt to headline a major conference.

    Socially it is a different matter. I want the more artistic types (more narcissistic like me? :p) to come and say hello. So out come the bow tie and more interesting, textured squares that are more commonly seen on SF. The square will be systematically unmatched with the rest, on purpose, although I try and have it further away from the tie than the shirt, if that makes sense, due to a long standing aversion (and not necessarily rational either) for matching tie and square. It's not sprezz, it is a deliberate statement whose nuances are a calling card and I've made some good friends as a result, who literally walked across the room to say hi. But there is a time and place for this and it is relatively limited (as is, to be fair, CM in a social setting more generally). And like Nicholas Atgemis in his early days I favour a conservative outfit with square and bow as flashes of colour. Love of the limit and all. I'd also stick to Patrick-style if I were in London, not that I go there anymore since us Europeans are now persona non grata ;) (may Lufthansa's A380s and 1h FRA transfers live a long and prosperous - but affordably priced - life)
     

  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    Bummed to see Simone Righi's shop in Florence close. The story is posted on his IG (you have to click stories to see it)

    https://www.instagram.com/frasidisimonerighi/

    Maomao at BRIO put it well:



    I feel like the longer I pay attention to this stuff, the stronger I feel that it's important to support businesses that, in some way, bring value to your life, whether it be quality products, good service, or even inspiration.
     

  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Oh man...
     

  11. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior Member

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  12. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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  13. Aquafortis

    Aquafortis Senior Member

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    The popularity of the whole soft appeal makes me think back to the 90's when Zegna came out with their Soft line. Cucinelli, LBM as described in this article, and Kiton's new KNT line, are current examples. It's all well and good to be comfortable in your clothing, but to me crosses a line when items that look like glorified track suits and pajamas are in the multi-thousand-dollar price point.
     

  14. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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    Agreed. I like some structure and seriously dislike unstructured jackets for work. Can handle them casually sometimes.
     

  15. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

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    I bought a Zegna Soft suit back then and I swear it was one of my favorite suits at the time. I could not afford a mainline Zegna suit (what was called Zegna Sartoriale, I believe) at the time.
     

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