The best Oxford shirt

[vikke977]

I would recommend Drake’s. Expensive, yes, but the fabric, collar and quality are solid. Kamakura has been recommended above, but compared point by point, the Drake’s OCBD simply blows it away. The collar is better than Kamakura’s flimsy one, the fabric is a much more robust oxford-weave and Kamakura’s small, yellow river shell buttons can not hold a candle to Drake’s beautiful MOP buttons. Granted, the Drake’s one costs twice as much. It can be had on the Archive sales for close to the msrp of the Kamakura, though.

 

[sargeinaz]

Agreed. Their recent Sea Island cotton OCBDs are incredible. I'm hoping they restock because I'll buy more.

How does the sea island cotton differ from their regular oxfords? I have some of the “Sport” ones and while I like a lot about them, I just feel like the fabric is so thin. I have some years old oxfords from J Crew that have a much thicker, nicer fabric for half the price.

 

[Old Red]

OP mentioned the PS shirt. I have had two shirts made with that fabric and it's a thicker, sturdy cloth; I like it though a bit warm this time of year. Carl (at CEGO shirts) is appalled at the fabric price, in line with the PS shirt price I suppose.

I had the shirts made with breast pockets sewn on.

 

[mosivy]

Kamakura is the best value if the fit works for you. Drakes is good but overpriced. Mercer is great quality but very, very boxy.

My personal favorite is Bryceland's, made by Ascot Chang. Not cheap, but impeccable quality. The fit and details work well for my taste.

 

[multiccy-csa]

I think you should reconsider if you want an Oxford shirt or a breast pocket.

Jeff

Thank you- i haven't seen much evidence to suggest an OCBD shouldn't have a pocket, but perhaps I'm wrong?

 

[multiccy-csa]

OP mentioned the PS shirt. I have had two shirts made with that fabric and it's a thicker, sturdy cloth; I like it though a bit warm this time of year. Carl (at CEGO shirts) is appalled at the fabric price, in line with the PS shirt price I suppose.

I had the shirts made with breast pockets sewn on.

Interesting. I found a PS shirt on sale and have ordered, shall report back on the fabric and fit.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Kamakura is the best value if the fit works for you. Drakes is good but overpriced. Mercer is great quality but very, very boxy.

My personal favorite is Bryceland's, made by Ascot Chang. Not cheap, but impeccable quality. The fit and details work well for my taste.

Lots of mentions of Kamakura, and its fit. What is it about the fit ? Are they considered large/oversize, or something else? I'm keen to try one.

 

[multiccy-csa]

I would recommend Drake’s. Expensive, yes, but the fabric, collar and quality are solid. Kamakura has been recommended above, but compared point by point, the Drake’s OCBD simply blows it away. The collar is better than Kamakura’s flimsy one, the fabric is a much more robust oxford-weave and Kamakura’s small, yellow river shell buttons can not hold a candle to Drake’s beautiful MOP buttons. Granted, the Drake’s one costs twice as much. It can be had on the Archive sales for close to the msrp of the Kamakura, though.

Thank you. What are the Drake's Archive sales? I see a weblink to the 'Archive' but it's asking for a password.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Mercer & Sons is my go to for Oxford cloth button downs and their other fabrics are outstanding, too. Made to order in USA. Old school fit. Personal service. Promotional pricing on your first shirt. David or Serena Mercer will answer the phone. Check out Mercer and tell them I sent you.

Thank you - Mercer look great, but being based in the UK makes things a little tricky on this front.

 

[vikke977]

Thank you. What are the Drake's Archive sales? I see a weblink to the 'Archive' but it's asking for a password.

It is only open intermittently. It might follow the end-of-season sales or then not. In the last year or so it has been open twice. Just keep an eye out and subscribe to their mailing list and you will be rewarded hehe.

 

[tbbucsfan001]

Lots of mentions of Kamakura, and its fit. What is it about the fit ? Are they considered large/oversize, or something else? I'm keen to try one.

Kamakura has a slimmer fit compared to the old, ivy brands which cut very generously. Mercer will work with you on sizing, though. I put a 17.5” collar on the body of a 17” shirt from them and it’s still big. Their sizing matches the old BB Traditional Fit. If you go one size down on the body, then it’s close to the current BB Madison Fit. The Kamakura 17.5” fits maybe just a little bit bigger than a Berg & Berg 44 cm collar Ferdinand.

 

[Connemara]

How does the sea island cotton differ from their regular oxfords? I have some of the “Sport” ones and while I like a lot about them, I just feel like the fabric is so thin. I have some years old oxfords from J Crew that have a much thicker, nicer fabric for half the price.

It's just a much nicer fabric. Heavier with a silky hand.

 

[jeremygo]

Thank you- i haven't seen much evidence to suggest an OCBD shouldn't have a pocket, but perhaps I'm wrong?

I believe Brooks Brothers started adding a pocket to their Oxford shirts in the 50s. So depending on what you view as the "golden age" of Ivy dressing (pre-war? early 60s?) you may have a preference towards a pocket or not. Most OCBDs I see these days have a pocket but if you get them made custom you could tweak of course.

Lots of mentions of Kamakura, and its fit. What is it about the fit ? Are they considered large/oversize, or something else? I'm keen to try one.

I wear the same size (15.5) in Kamakura and Drakes but the Kamakura are definitely slightly more slim. Note that I only own the "Vintage Ivy" oxfords from Kamakura which may fit slightly differently from the main line. The collar length (3" for Kamakura Vintage Ivy) is definitely less substantial than Drakes but it still has a nice roll to my eye.

 

[Johnny80]

From Drake’s to Kiton ,Cesare Attolini ,Barba and Turnbull and Asser i would say best quality/fit/price remains Barba especially for a more slim fitted men, for relaxed fit CA or TA but those are in difference category, maybe if you find on sales, i dont know

 

[jeremygo]

Thought I'd provide an example of the collars from Drake's/Kamakura and how they compare to a vintage Brooks OCBD I have.

Vintage Brooks Brothers (dated late 50s/early 60s re: Sean from Crowley Vintage):

Drake's:

Kamakura Vintage Ivy: