The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Concordia

As far as trousers go, I find that Edwin provides the most room, and Thomas the least. A&S hit a more conventional medium. Edwin also does like roomy jackets. Of the three, A&S have given me the crispest silhouette.
Isn't that interesting? My trousers are quite slim, bit then, that is one of the things that are probably a reflection of demand rather than inclination. My jackets have also been winched in over time. I don't know...sometimes I think there is more of my thinking going into my bespoke pieces than is typical for other guys...more than the usual stuff with fabric and detail choices. I assume what I do is normal, but maybe not. - B

 

[Concordia]

Communication counts.

There are some things also that cannot be captured by simple measurements. Waist, chest, and shoulders on the various jackets really aren't that far off. Something else is at play.

 

[voxsartoria]

I guess that Ive had the benefit of having one tailor over an extended time, and remaining as pleased with my first set of things as I am with things that reflect my current thinking.

I'm lucky.

- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Steed (Edwin DeBoise) SB soft roll to 1 single-button bespoke suit in Holland & Sherry 13/14oz fresco (for those of you who care, this is a model with the front cut), a.k.a. SwissArmySuitâ„¢
Closeup of the jacket, shirt, tie and square:

Today, I'm using a smoked mother of pearl button set:

I expect that I will be using the MoP set most often during Spring and Summer.


- B

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Closeup of the jacket, shirt, tie and square:

Where did you find the shirt?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Will

Where did you find the shirt?

Louis from the brief time in when Kiton made a line of shirts for Oxxford.

- B

 

[voxsartoria]

I was catching up with Edwin on two new suits in process, and I learned that he is visiting Washington, DC for the first time on his next trip. He will be there on June 10th. He normally visits Chicago, NYC, and Boston quarterly. More details: Steed's View and Steed Tailors.


- B

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I was catching up with Edwin on two new suits in process, and I learned that he is visiting Washington, DC for the first time on his next trip. He will be there on June 10th. He normally visits Chicago, NYC, and Boston quarterly. More details: Steed's View and Steed Tailors. - B
More fresco, or something else?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

More fresco, or something else?

A DB and a SB three piece, both in Golden Bale.

After that, I'm thinking of an achromatic trio: houndstooth; PoW; and something black with a white bead.

You will find this hard to believe, but I have but a single fresco suit from Edwin...the navy blue three piece with swappable buttons. All the other frescos are from the Mystery Bespoke Tailor, a summer-oriented program that is essentially complete.


- B

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

A DB and a SB three piece, both in Golden Bale. After that, I'm thinking of an achromatic trio: houndstooth; PoW; and something black with a white bead. You will find this hard to believe, but I have but a single fresco suit from Edwin...the navy blue three piece with swappable buttons. All the other frescos are from the Mystery Bespoke Tailor, a summer-oriented program that is essentially complete. - B
What I find hard to believe is that with all the information out there, people still smoke. Striped golden bale? You know that stuff is quite dense? Beautiful fabric but not a breather. Houndstooth suit eh? Consider finding a quality of fabric you like and then picking a pattern. I wouldnt mind a black beaded stripe myself, actually Lesser's new 11-11.5 oz superfine releases contain a black beaded pin which is quite good. I might get one myself but i cant decide between navy, charcoal and black.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Striped golden bale? You know that stuff is quite dense? Beautiful fabric but not a breather.

One solid, one windowpane. As 100% mammal, I have self-regulating body temperature and a wide range of tolerance for different weights of fabrics. And I am far along enough in life where I control the thermostat at work.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Houndstooth suit eh? Consider finding a quality of fabric you like and then picking a pattern. I wouldnt mind a black beaded stripe myself, actually Lesser's new 11-11.5 oz superfine releases contain a black beaded pin which is quite good. I might get one myself but i cant decide between navy, charcoal and black.

Interesting, I'll take a look at that Lesser.


- B

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

One solid, one windowpane. As 100% mammal, I have self-regulating body temperature and a wide range of tolerance for different weights of fabrics. Interesting, I'll take a look at that Lesser. - B
Windowpane? What the devil does everyone around here have against stripes? I have some golden bale suits myself, they do have a rich feel to them and very retro which I sense you like. I'm not that sensitive to heat or cold, it's more a matter of air circulation. I get uncomfortable in still or clammy environments and a dense suit cloth exacerbates that.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

And I am far along enough in life where I control the thermostat at work.
You sir, have arrived. It's actually elevator environments on humid days that get me started.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Windowpane?

What the devil does everyone around here have against stripes?

I like stripes. It's just that the best batch of MTM and RTW suits that I have left are almost all stripes, so I am addressing other areas of interest first as I go along.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

I have some golden bale suits myself, they do have a rich feel to them and very retro which I sense you like.

I like a lot of things, including things that might be retro. But I also wear denim to work on occasion.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

I'm not that sensitive to heat or cold, it's more a matter of air circulation. I get uncomfortable in still or clammy environments and a dense suit cloth exacerbates that.

Air circulation? Have you tried fresco?

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

You sir, have arrived.

It's actually elevator environments on humid days that get me started.

All our buildings operate with centralized HVAC controls, except for one place: my office, which at my unreasonable insistence is the only space with local temperature control. It's a somewhat stupid luxury, and not very green, but I like it.


- B

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria;2065884... After that, I'm thinking of an achromatic trio: [B

houndstooth[/b]; PoW; and something black with a white bead.... - B
Awesome. I like Lesser's 30942 as it didn't have such a stark white. Also nice, and less traditional but with the identical functionality (whatever that is) is a brown/cream houndstooth.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Windowpane? What the devil does everyone around here have against stripes? ...
I like stripes, and wear them often. I just don't find them that interesting to talk about. The internet is for conversation, not inventory. Solids have been edging out stripes in my suit wardrobe lately, but that is more of a rather recent trend and wasn't always the case and subject to future re-balancing, depending on TARP, interest rates and my expected retirement date. Past performance is not a guaranty of future results.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by dopey

Awesome. I like Lesser's 30942 as it didn't have such a stark white. Also nice, and less traditional but with the identical functionality (whatever that is) is a brown/cream houndstooth.

Thank you...I'm taking notes.

Originally Posted by dopey

I like stripes, and wear them often. I just don't find them that interesting to talk about.

Stripes are, however, the mother's milk of all orphaned suit jacket and trousers threads.

- B