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SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

clee1982

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PRL also always have lots of stuff, but definitely require a lot more digging to know what's good (this one doesn't have tag so I can't tell either, but just as general point out)

 

solid_olid

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Alright, I could use some help if the knowledgeable folks here can provide. I have a wedding in mid June in Italy and need to get a suit for it. And beyond that I’d like to get another suit or two for other occasions. I have a fair bit of trouble fitting off the rack due to a larger bottom and very broad shoulders and back. Pants I think I can generally make work if they have enough spare fabric, but jackets are harder. I am roughly a size 46 US except I need like 20.5” or more in the shoulders, which in like Suitsupply puts me up to a 54, or in PRL like a 48-50 at least. Maybe if I get better posture I’ll only need 20” lol.

So far, by far the best fit I’ve found is the Armoury model 15 in a EU 56, which is a great florentine style, but they don’t carry much in it and no appropriate suits. I can do MTM but that would be close to 3K, which is more than I’d ideally pay for a summer only suit (ideally like $1k-1.5k, can go to 2k for something great). I’d love to go used and get it tailored but I can’t find anything reasonable.

Stylistically, I like more Italian style tailoring, moderately wide lapels, extended shoulders are helpful, high armholes, flat front pants with a high rise. No more than light structure in the shoulder. Happy with no darts in front, slight darting is fine. The perfect suit is a tan/cognac linen 3 roll 2 with flap pockets, shirt sleeve shoulder, a slightly high gorge, and slightly lower buttoning point. Dual vent of course. I’d compromise on most of those details for a great fit.

So far I don’t have a lot to go on. Local menswear shop has overpriced MTO with Atelier Monroe. I reached out to Sinfonia on instagram. Another local tailor seems to do custom, and I was thinking about reaching out to Wazin to see what their house cut is like, since I’m under an hour and a half from New York. It’s hard for me to get in on a weekday, but NMWA MTM I think is doable in 1.5-2 thousand range. But I’m pretty tired of digging up size charts for every random tailoring brand lol, and maybe just going to give up and order Bonobos since their stuff fits me well. I would great appreciate any help, and if you connect me with something that lands ahead of my trip, I will happily bring you back a small thank you gift from Italy.
 

clee1982

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Put on MC Genera chat, might get more answer

I use Wazin for alternation and I like the result but I assume his suit really just MtM, don’t know how good or bad it is in general.

I didn’t realize Armoury RJ is that expensive now, just a few years back thew MtM was only a few hundred over RTW I remember.

Style wise I think Sinfonia would work but you want to do remote fitting (I would get a trouser from him when I’m in Taiwan next time so don’t think he is bad just I don’t love remote fitting)?

Anthology would have similar style ish, their MtM turn around was quick for me last time, maybe MTO in stock size?

From Forum usual suspect I think Bersand/BergBerg all might work though or maybe even Cavour (skinnier lapel?)

Spier and Mackay?

Feels like your best bet is bite the bullet for either Armoury RJ (known) or NMWA (fit in person), though would turn around time work? We’re already in April
 

L.I.T.

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Alright, I could use some help if the knowledgeable folks here can provide. I have a wedding in mid June in Italy and need to get a suit for it. And beyond that I’d like to get another suit or two for other occasions. I have a fair bit of trouble fitting off the rack due to a larger bottom and very broad shoulders and back. Pants I think I can generally make work if they have enough spare fabric, but jackets are harder. I am roughly a size 46 US except I need like 20.5” or more in the shoulders, which in like Suitsupply puts me up to a 54, or in PRL like a 48-50 at least. Maybe if I get better posture I’ll only need 20” lol.

So far, by far the best fit I’ve found is the Armoury model 15 in a EU 56, which is a great florentine style, but they don’t carry much in it and no appropriate suits. I can do MTM but that would be close to 3K, which is more than I’d ideally pay for a summer only suit (ideally like $1k-1.5k, can go to 2k for something great). I’d love to go used and get it tailored but I can’t find anything reasonable.

Stylistically, I like more Italian style tailoring, moderately wide lapels, extended shoulders are helpful, high armholes, flat front pants with a high rise. No more than light structure in the shoulder. Happy with no darts in front, slight darting is fine. The perfect suit is a tan/cognac linen 3 roll 2 with flap pockets, shirt sleeve shoulder, a slightly high gorge, and slightly lower buttoning point. Dual vent of course. I’d compromise on most of those details for a great fit.

So far I don’t have a lot to go on. Local menswear shop has overpriced MTO with Atelier Monroe. I reached out to Sinfonia on instagram. Another local tailor seems to do custom, and I was thinking about reaching out to Wazin to see what their house cut is like, since I’m under an hour and a half from New York. It’s hard for me to get in on a weekday, but NMWA MTM I think is doable in 1.5-2 thousand range. But I’m pretty tired of digging up size charts for every random tailoring brand lol, and maybe just going to give up and order Bonobos since their stuff fits me well. I would great appreciate any help, and if you connect me with something that lands ahead of my trip, I will happily bring you back a small thank you gift from Italy.


Got randomly shared this sheet in my google sheets somehow.
 

marmite

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Ho folks, I need a stylistic advice from the lot of you. Last summer I bought a length of this shiny black linen fabric with the idea to order a suit for a formal event that got canceled. So here I am a year later with the same fabric thinking what to do with it. I'm leaning to an unstructured SWD type of a suit, but I'm not sure if the fabric may be too shiny for the style. It's a Dries Van Noten cloth with a sheen akin to what dark linens obtain after some wear. It's mid-weight, but on a stiffer side, though that may change after washing.
IMG_5242_700x.jpg

Pants will be wide but the style is still open. I was thinking of a curved pant variation but perhaps I order some simple easy pants. The jacket is giving me more trouble. I'll probably wear it with printed tees or casual shirts. Some ideas that come to mind are a simple boxy jacket with slightly dropped shoulders like this Studio Nicholson or this simple blazer from Margaret Howell or even a double breasted like this Lemaire (but with jetted pockets).

Studio Nicholson
CONDESNM-619DARKESTNAVY1_1680x.jpg


Margaret Howell
margaret-howell-men-ss24-online-look-3096x3999-25a.jpg


Lemaire
JA1042_LF1210_BK995_2_f9caa1a1-c634-45cf-80a3-71d0e83e7fa7_750x_crop_center.jpg

The fabric is not that heavy so even an overshirt is not out of the question - perhaps cropped and boxy similar to this Rosen shirt that I really like.

Suit-Shirt-2-min.jpg


Or some very casual bomber or teba style jacket. Basically, I'm asking for ideas cause I have no idea what to do with the beautiful fabric that I bought.
 

K. Nights

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Ho folks, I need a stylistic advice from the lot of you. Last summer I bought a length of this shiny black linen fabric with the idea to order a suit for a formal event that got canceled. So here I am a year later with the same fabric thinking what to do with it. I'm leaning to an unstructured SWD type of a suit, but I'm not sure if the fabric may be too shiny for the style. It's a Dries Van Noten cloth with a sheen akin to what dark linens obtain after some wear. It's mid-weight, but on a stiffer side, though that may change after washing.
IMG_5242_700x.jpg

Pants will be wide but the style is still open. I was thinking of a curved pant variation but perhaps I order some simple easy pants. The jacket is giving me more trouble. I'll probably wear it with printed tees or casual shirts. Some ideas that come to mind are a simple boxy jacket with slightly dropped shoulders like this Studio Nicholson or this simple blazer from Margaret Howell or even a double breasted like this Lemaire (but with jetted pockets).

Studio Nicholson
CONDESNM-619DARKESTNAVY1_1680x.jpg


Margaret Howell
margaret-howell-men-ss24-online-look-3096x3999-25a.jpg


Lemaire
JA1042_LF1210_BK995_2_f9caa1a1-c634-45cf-80a3-71d0e83e7fa7_750x_crop_center.jpg

The fabric is not that heavy so even an overshirt is not out of the question - perhaps cropped and boxy similar to this Rosen shirt that I really like.

Suit-Shirt-2-min.jpg


Or some very casual bomber or teba style jacket. Basically, I'm asking for ideas cause I have no idea what to do with the beautiful fabric that I bought.
A matching set like this could be cool
23_06_Shirts_36_1296x.jpg
 

kindofyoung

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@marmite
I'd much rather see that fabric used in a louche manner, either for something Haider/Berluti esque or even better the FOGxZegna direction or the best vintage Armani.

Supersharp shoulders (some padding is a-ok), big peak lapels and a heavy drop with a low true waist/buttoning point. Either 4x2 buttoning for double-breasted or just one button if single breasted, but with a little extra overlap in the front.
Jacket length should cover your butt completely, paired with straight and wide, high-waisted and front-pleated (2 or 3) trousers with 2 inch cuffs and a good bit of pooling.

Be the 80s-Miami Vice-Armani-Dries van Noten superstar you were always meant to be.
Cocaine optional.


Unrelated, here's some recent pick-ups I've thrifted that I'd say are fitting for this thread:
R0006475.jpg
R0006480.jpg

Vintage leather jacket, 70s style but I think produced later, maybe 90s
70s black wool/poly 3-piece suit, a bit loose but will be great with some alterations

R0006483.jpg
R0006487.jpg

80s blue/grey 2-piece suit with some sheen, fits perfect
70s pinstripe 3-piece suit, 100% wool and produced in Sweden, needs a little work

1712357014078.png
1712357055808.png

70s swedish short-sleeve shirt, 100% cotton twill, paired with the leather jacket from above

IMG_0143.png
1712357132802.png

The blue/gray suit paired with Post-Romantic silk shirt, good sleazy vibes.
Lastly a great find from today, swedish 70s blazer, textured brown birdseye, 100% wool.​
 
Last edited:

krudsma

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@marmite
I'd much rather see that fabric used in a louche manner, either for something Haider/Berluti esque or even better the FOGxZegna direction or the best vintage Armani.

Supersharp shoulders (some padding is a-ok), big peak lapels, just one button if single breasted or 4x2 buttoning if double-breasted, with a heavy drop and a low true waist/buttoning point either way.
Jacket length should cover your butt completely, paired with straight and wide, high-waisted and front-pleated (2 or 3) trousers with 2 inch cuffs and a good bit of pooling.

Be the 80s-Miami Vice-Armani-Dries van Noten superstar you were always meant to be.
Cocaine optional.


Unrelated, here's some recent pick-ups I've thrifted that I'd say are fitting for this thread:
R0006475.jpg
R0006480.jpg

Vintage leather jacket, 70s style but I think produced later, maybe 90s
70s black wool/poly 3-piece suit, a bit loose but will be great with some alterations

R0006483.jpg
R0006487.jpg

80s blue/grey 2-piece suit with some sheen, fits perfect
70s pinstripe 3-piece suit, 100% wool and produced in Sweden, needs a little work

View attachment 2161961 View attachment 2161963
70s swedish short-sleeve shirt, 100% cotton twill, paired with the leather jacket from above

IMG_0143.png
View attachment 2161965
The blue/gray suit paired with Post-Romantic silk shirt, good sleazy vibes.
Lastly a great find from today, swedish 70s blazer, textured brown birdseye, 100% wool.​
You do this look so well man. Very inspiring.
 

FlyingHorker

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RLPL after alteration

CM View attachment 2145037

None CM (black shirt… yea I’m lacking of imagination, though black jeans would be better probably, or even dark brown pants, just need solid color with texture for example)


View attachment 2145041
I put together a similiar outfit, thanks for inspo.

My brain says it sucks though, orphaned suit jacket CM look due to mismatching tones.

Would a mid-grey pinstripe jacket, black jeans, black dress cowboy boots look off?
 

ppk

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I put together a similiar outfit, thanks for inspo.

My brain says it sucks though, orphaned suit jacket CM look due to mismatching tones.

Would a mid-grey pinstripe jacket, black jeans, black dress cowboy boots look off?
Aaron Levine does a lot of variations on this. Look at his Instagram.
 
Last edited:

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