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Summer Linen Suit

Vintage Gent

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OK gents, I'm looking for some advice on a summer linen suit. This March, during Chan's tour o' the states, I'm going to commission a three-piece linen suit in either cream or light gray.

My inclination is to get a double-breasted waistcoat with shawl lapels. But a linen suit seems to ask for patch pockets, which to my mind are too casual to accompany a double-breasted waistcoat. Are flap pockets a better option?

As for the fabric, Harrison's Mersolair has both cream and light gray in linen, but I was hoping for something a bit more substantial. John G. Hardy has a 13 oz. cream, but no light gray (which I slightly prefer). Any other options? W. Bill?
 

pgmetcalf

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A linen suit is a summer suit so I wouldn't go for the waist coat, but just stick with a 2 piece lounge suit. Nor would I make it double breasted, DB suits incate your wrapped up for cold weather and wouldn't look right in summer in my IMO. I like this from a British store, just to give you an idea.

http://www.marksandspencer.com/Tall...&pf_rd_i=0&pf_rd_p=215485807&pf_rd_s=center-3



I don't like those shoes though, I would go for desert boots with that suit
 
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Vintage Gent

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You are certainly entitled to your opinion, and I respect that you find something off about the inclusion of a DB waistcoat, but I find the look very appealing, and it is one supported by ample historic precedent.

I realize I've been away from these precincts for more than a year, but once was a time when I came around asking for advice and a surfeit of knowledgeable opinion would be proffered. Have the usual suspects flown the coop? I'm surprised to find my questions go wanting.
 

David Reeves

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I think your better off with an SB vest if your doing a DB coat. Theres some beautiful cottons and linens by Loro Piana and Zegna. Dormeuil does some cotton linen and silk mixes which maintain their shape well.
 
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TTO

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It's a look I've been on the verge of commissioning several times! something along these lines?

this all in a light grey, in a heavy linen, maybe with slightly more open fronts, with some gauntlet cuffs!
I say check the W-Bill fabrics, their linen has a sturdy reputation and I seem to recall someone telling me they had some greys.
I think it'll make up very nicely with flapped pockets, maybe self lined fronts and unlined back, you could even get a backless waistcoat if you where very worried about heat, but I'd rather have the option of removing the coat.
Good luck, please update with pics if you do decide to go ahead...it may fuell my own needs!
-TTO
 

David Reeves

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It's a look I've been on the verge of commissioning several times! something along these lines?

this all in a light grey, in a heavy linen, maybe with slightly more open fronts, with some gauntlet cuffs!
I say check the W-Bill fabrics, their linen has a sturdy reputation and I seem to recall someone telling me they had some greys.
I think it'll make up very nicely with flapped pockets, maybe self lined fronts and unlined back, you could even get a backless waistcoat if you where very worried about heat, but I'd rather have the option of removing the coat.
Good luck, please update with pics if you do decide to go ahead...it may fuell my own needs!
-TTO


Looks great, if a tad theatrical. Would look very Proust all in dove grey.

Matching the buttons with the vest is very clever.
 
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Manton

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3 piece linen is sorta nutty. save money and skip the vest.

definitely go unlined patch
 

F. Corbera

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I realize I've been away from these precincts for more than a year, but once was a time when I came around asking for advice and a surfeit of knowledgeable opinion would be proffered. Have the usual suspects flown the coop? I'm surprised to find my questions go wanting.


VG, I like the W. Bill Irish linens the best for suits.

All of mine are have patches for the hip pockets. All are SB two pieces. With a three piece, I would get plain flaps.

Has Chan already cut a DB vest for you? If so, what are the details of it and the suit?
 

Manton

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william clark is also good linen

but as I recall you are on the Gulf where it is really hot and humid all the time, so these heavy irish linens may have limited utility
 

Vintage Gent

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That's about the speed of what I'm looking to commission, with the exception of a matching vest. And the gauntlet cuffs. I notice the gent in the pic has besom pockets--either that or he tucked the flaps.

I will give the W. Bill linen book a look-see. If they have a light gray, there's a good chance I'll go with that, particularly because the W. Bill linens come in at a sturdy 14 oz.
 
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Manton

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dude, unless you are a lizard, you will liquify in 14 oz linen in galveston
 

Manton

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seriously, be careful. You don't want to spend 4 digits on a "summer" suit that you can't wear from May-Sept
 

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