Summer Linen Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Vintage Gent, Feb 2, 2012.

  1. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2003
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Galveston
    OK gents, I'm looking for some advice on a summer linen suit. This March, during Chan's tour o' the states, I'm going to commission a three-piece linen suit in either cream or light gray.

    My inclination is to get a double-breasted waistcoat with shawl lapels. But a linen suit seems to ask for patch pockets, which to my mind are too casual to accompany a double-breasted waistcoat. Are flap pockets a better option?

    As for the fabric, Harrison's Mersolair has both cream and light gray in linen, but I was hoping for something a bit more substantial. John G. Hardy has a 13 oz. cream, but no light gray (which I slightly prefer). Any other options? W. Bill?
     


  2. pgmetcalf

    pgmetcalf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    76
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Location:
    Sheffield
    A linen suit is a summer suit so I wouldn't go for the waist coat, but just stick with a 2 piece lounge suit. Nor would I make it double breasted, DB suits incate your wrapped up for cold weather and wouldn't look right in summer in my IMO. I like this from a British store, just to give you an idea.

    http://www.marksandspencer.com/Tall...&pf_rd_i=0&pf_rd_p=215485807&pf_rd_s=center-3

    [​IMG]

    I don't like those shoes though, I would go for desert boots with that suit
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012


  3. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2003
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Galveston
    You are certainly entitled to your opinion, and I respect that you find something off about the inclusion of a DB waistcoat, but I find the look very appealing, and it is one supported by ample historic precedent.

    I realize I've been away from these precincts for more than a year, but once was a time when I came around asking for advice and a surfeit of knowledgeable opinion would be proffered. Have the usual suspects flown the coop? I'm surprised to find my questions go wanting.
     


  4. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,076
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    I think your better off with an SB vest if your doing a DB coat. Theres some beautiful cottons and linens by Loro Piana and Zegna. Dormeuil does some cotton linen and silk mixes which maintain their shape well.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012


  5. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2003
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Galveston
    

    Sorry I forgot to mention it. SB coat. DB vest.
     


  6. TTO

    TTO Senior member

    Messages:
    1,005
    Likes Received:
    4,345
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Location:
    London
    It's a look I've been on the verge of commissioning several times! something along these lines?
    [​IMG]
    this all in a light grey, in a heavy linen, maybe with slightly more open fronts, with some gauntlet cuffs!
    I say check the W-Bill fabrics, their linen has a sturdy reputation and I seem to recall someone telling me they had some greys.
    I think it'll make up very nicely with flapped pockets, maybe self lined fronts and unlined back, you could even get a backless waistcoat if you where very worried about heat, but I'd rather have the option of removing the coat.
    Good luck, please update with pics if you do decide to go ahead...it may fuell my own needs!
    -TTO
     


  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,076
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    Looks great, if a tad theatrical. Would look very Proust all in dove grey.

    Matching the buttons with the vest is very clever.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    3 piece linen is sorta nutty. save money and skip the vest.

    definitely go unlined patch
     


  9. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Likes Received:
    1,153
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    

    VG, I like the W. Bill Irish linens the best for suits.

    All of mine are have patches for the hip pockets. All are SB two pieces. With a three piece, I would get plain flaps.

    Has Chan already cut a DB vest for you? If so, what are the details of it and the suit?
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    william clark is also good linen

    but as I recall you are on the Gulf where it is really hot and humid all the time, so these heavy irish linens may have limited utility
     


  11. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2003
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Galveston
    That's about the speed of what I'm looking to commission, with the exception of a matching vest. And the gauntlet cuffs. I notice the gent in the pic has besom pockets--either that or he tucked the flaps.

    I will give the W. Bill linen book a look-see. If they have a light gray, there's a good chance I'll go with that, particularly because the W. Bill linens come in at a sturdy 14 oz.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    dude, unless you are a lizard, you will liquify in 14 oz linen in galveston
     


  13. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2003
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Galveston
    

    Chan has, three DB peak lapel vests, two of which are part of a suit and one of which is part of a stroller.
     


  14. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2003
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Galveston
    

    [​IMG]
     


  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    seriously, be careful. You don't want to spend 4 digits on a "summer" suit that you can't wear from May-Sept
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by