Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Vintage Gent, Feb 2, 2012.
Is the vest coat wrinkled, or pulled too tight?
I love linen suits.
I would suggest that you skip the waist coat and go with a DB instead. It will look fashionable for many years.
I would recommend besom or patch pockets. I find linen flap pockets to be annoying because of the wrinkles.
Cream is nice but I think a deep tan or a brown is quit elegant>
The purpose of "heavy" linen escapes me.
I had a beautiful heavy Irish linen jacket from Luciano Barbera. I loved it but it was simply too heavy to enjoy in the warm summer months. Better to have something that is light and airy.
Cream 14oz W. Bill Irish linen. Completely fine (for me) in the most humid Boston summer weather.
I have a mammalian part to my brain, but it's small.
I have a cream DB linen, a bit more yellowish or eggshell or real ecru than FC's above. 9ish oz, 3/8 lined. It looks great, but I wish I'd gone heavier. The light stuff really does wrinkle in small sharp wrinkles, like on the mustachioed gent's right inside pent leg.
By contrast, Vox/FC's 14 oz looks more like rumples: like the big beef rolls on a shell shoe.
As to color, I think that cream tan, or light wheat, a sort of creamish Burma natural, is more versatile than straight cream heading toward ivory. Still creamy enough to look great at night, but slightly less conspicuous than true cream during the day.
I take Manton's worries about 14 oz in humid weather. Maybe 12 oz is the sweet spot?
A 3 piece linen suit defeats the purpose of wearing a linen suit. Linen is there to keep you cool bro' not hot.
Saying all that here is some inspiration:
This. But heavier line hangs better and more away from the skin and is cooler is the general idea behind wearing 14 oz Irish linen.
Thanks for the photo. I bought this colour linen (called mud!) and was tossing up with to have it made SB or DB.
No to 3 piece. DB is nice but not as cool to wear as SB. And go as heavy as you can stand. 13-14 oz is pretty good as far as drape and crease resistance is concerned but the issue is it does heat up.
I understand the concern about the three-piece in the height of summer. But I can always dispense with the vest in the hottest months, saving the vest for the spring and early fall.
It resists creasing to a much greater extent than the lighter stuff.
Re weight, I wear 14 ounce linen comfortably in 90 degree heat all the time and my name is not Sator.
VG, your clever lament about the lack of knowledgable responses has brought out many to contradict you.
I think that it is true that different men vary in their hot weather heat tolerance to fabrics. Part of this is intrinsic; part of it is how much walking they have to do in the open heat.
You are in a summer weather hell hole, but you have had made many things there seem to be better survival candidates further North. So, I think you can take a 14oz linen in your Gulf summer, and that extra substance makes the whole thing look great.
Here I am in a soft, spongey 9oz-ish open weave Italian linen, but I could not say it wears any cooler than W. Bill for me even in the worst hot wet:
Go Irish, for you.
(Borrelli/Riva linen/cotton shirt and Borrelli cotton pants, Lattanzi suede loafers.)
Separate names with a comma.