Summer Linen Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Vintage Gent, Feb 2, 2012.

  1. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

    Messages:
    3,319
    Likes Received:
    50
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2010
    Location:
    Omaha
    

    Is the vest coat wrinkled, or pulled too tight?
     


  2. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    19,164
    Likes Received:
    3,274
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    I love linen suits.

    I would suggest that you skip the waist coat and go with a DB instead. It will look fashionable for many years.

    I would recommend besom or patch pockets. I find linen flap pockets to be annoying because of the wrinkles.

    Cream is nice but I think a deep tan or a brown is quit elegant>

    [​IMG]
     


  3. Big A

    Big A Senior member

    Messages:
    2,112
    Likes Received:
    258
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2008
    Location:
    At your house, when you're not there
    The purpose of "heavy" linen escapes me.
     


  4. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    19,164
    Likes Received:
    3,274
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    Z

    I had a beautiful heavy Irish linen jacket from Luciano Barbera. I loved it but it was simply too heavy to enjoy in the warm summer months. Better to have something that is light and airy.
     


  5. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Likes Received:
    1,153
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    [​IMG]

    Cream 14oz W. Bill Irish linen. Completely fine (for me) in the most humid Boston summer weather.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    lizard
     


  7. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Likes Received:
    1,153
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    

    I have a mammalian part to my brain, but it's small.
     


  8. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

    Messages:
    767
    Likes Received:
    153
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2011
    I have a cream DB linen, a bit more yellowish or eggshell or real ecru than FC's above. 9ish oz, 3/8 lined. It looks great, but I wish I'd gone heavier. The light stuff really does wrinkle in small sharp wrinkles, like on the mustachioed gent's right inside pent leg.

    By contrast, Vox/FC's 14 oz looks more like rumples: like the big beef rolls on a shell shoe.

    As to color, I think that cream tan, or light wheat, a sort of creamish Burma natural, is more versatile than straight cream heading toward ivory. Still creamy enough to look great at night, but slightly less conspicuous than true cream during the day.

    I take Manton's worries about 14 oz in humid weather. Maybe 12 oz is the sweet spot?
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012


  9. meister

    meister Senior member

    Messages:
    7,473
    Likes Received:
    698
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2007
    
    A 3 piece linen suit defeats the purpose of wearing a linen suit. Linen is there to keep you cool bro' not hot.

    Saying all that here is some inspiration:
    http://abitofcolor.tumblr.com/post/15149514142/giantbeard-personalstyle-carlo-montanaro-in-a

    This. But heavier line hangs better and more away from the skin and is cooler is the general idea behind wearing 14 oz Irish linen.


    Thanks for the photo. I bought this colour linen (called mud!) and was tossing up with to have it made SB or DB.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012


  10. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

    Messages:
    3,187
    Likes Received:
    270
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2004
    No to 3 piece. DB is nice but not as cool to wear as SB. And go as heavy as you can stand. 13-14 oz is pretty good as far as drape and crease resistance is concerned but the issue is it does heat up.
     


  11. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2003
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Galveston
    I understand the concern about the three-piece in the height of summer. But I can always dispense with the vest in the hottest months, saving the vest for the spring and early fall.
     


  12. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,144
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Location:
    San Francisco
    

    It resists creasing to a much greater extent than the lighter stuff.

    Re weight, I wear 14 ounce linen comfortably in 90 degree heat all the time and my name is not Sator.
     


  13. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Likes Received:
    1,153
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    VG, your clever lament about the lack of knowledgable responses has brought out many to contradict you.

    I think that it is true that different men vary in their hot weather heat tolerance to fabrics. Part of this is intrinsic; part of it is how much walking they have to do in the open heat.

    You are in a summer weather hell hole, but you have had made many things there seem to be better survival candidates further North. So, I think you can take a 14oz linen in your Gulf summer, and that extra substance makes the whole thing look great.

    Here I am in a soft, spongey 9oz-ish open weave Italian linen, but I could not say it wears any cooler than W. Bill for me even in the worst hot wet:

    [​IMG]

    Go Irish, for you.

    (Borrelli/Riva linen/cotton shirt and Borrelli cotton pants, Lattanzi suede loafers.)
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2012


  14. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2003
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Galveston
    

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     


  15. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Likes Received:
    1,153
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by