Suit or costume?

[mikealvaa]

Does this outfit go together? Or do I look like im cosplaying the 30s. I am going for a more American classic look. I’m a 32 year old living in NYC, and someone told me I look like a used car salesman.

I don’t agree but maybe I lack some self awareness lol. FWIW, the person saying this has no fashion sense imo

I think the jacket could go better with black or navy trousers. I’ve been having trouble trying to find pants that go with a tan houndstooth

 

[jeremygo]

So I have a few thoughts:

1. I think you look great, but at the end of the day what matters is how your clothes make *you* feel. "**** the haters" as they say and do what makes you feel like the best version of you. I'm a 31 year old in Brooklyn and am often the only person wearing tailoring in my day to day life. Over time most people who know me have gotten used to it and if they ask I just say "I like the way it makes me feel. I think it's cool." If you're being yourself most people will get it. I try to fit in with my surroundings a bit (see point 2) by often wearing slightly more casual outfits that still retain the benefits of tailoring (most days: unstructured jackets with denim or chinos or more "modern" wool trousers with an 8" leg opening; OCBDs, loafers and boots, etc.).

2. Also important is how you and your outfit fit into your environment. If you're wearing this to an office where folks wear business suits every day, it may be a bit out of the ordinary but probably acceptable. If you're wearing this to a job where everyone is wearing jeans and a polo, it may seem odd to the rest of your co-workers, and there may be ways to adjust slightly to address this (see point 3). If you're wearing this just on a weekend to grab coffee, have dinner, or go see a play - see point 1: be the version of yourself you want to be.

3. Your outfit is certainly "classic" in a way that to the general public (not an obsessive posting to SF) may seem dated. If this bothers you/it's viewed as unusual at work in a way that could affect your promotion prospects, you could adjust by:
- losing the tie or going for a tie that feels a bit more "modern" (just a solid or striped grenadine could work)
- if you lose the tie, a button down collar would be preferrable and would also lower the formality level
- consider a jacket with less structured/softer shoulders (I'm not an expert on construction, but you can certainly find people who can give more info) which can feel more casual/modern
- these are just a few ideas; feel free to ignore

 

[mikealvaa]

Thanks for that, I will consider this!

 

[ppk]

Does this outfit go together? Or do I look like im cosplaying the 30s. I am going for a more American classic look. I’m a 32 year old living in NYC, and someone told me I look like a used car salesman.

I don’t agree but maybe I lack some self awareness lol. FWIW, the person saying this has no fashion sense imo

I think the jacket could go better with black or navy trousers. I’ve been having trouble trying to find pants that go with a tan houndstooth

I wear tailoring most days and I live and work in Silicon Valley. I get lots of comments and echo @jeremygo POV. I'm comfortable in the clothes I wear. I'm not wearing it for people who don't know me well. The people who do know me well appreciate the way I dress.

 

[corpseposeur]

Does this outfit go together? Or do I look like im cosplaying the 30s. I am going for a more American classic look. I’m a 32 year old living in NYC, and someone told me I look like a used car salesman.

I don’t agree but maybe I lack some self awareness lol. FWIW, the person saying this has no fashion sense imo

I think the jacket could go better with black or navy trousers. I’ve been having trouble trying to find pants that go with a tan houndstooth

I also live in NYC and I have a few thoughts.

1) Your outfit looks great. You're jacket and trousers fit well. How do you wear it? Do you wear it casually for work? What industry to do you work in. You do NOT look like a used car salesman mostly because it's put together well. I have never seen a used car salesman in a suit that fits well or is put together well. The only piece of feedback is that jacket looks a bit English country gentleman (I mean this as a complement), wheras a more standard navy blazer with the same trousers will look a bit more appropriate for the city.

2) When living in New York, keep in mind it is one of the most important commercial and cultural centers in the world. Period. I feel that people that live here should dress well in whatever. If the acceptable uniform for men, are Crocs, cargo shorts, a graphic or sports t-shirt and Oakleys, why live here with the expensive rent and noise and other inconveniences? New York is an important place where important people do important things. You should dress like that and people with taste and cultural education DO notice.

3) I agree losing the tie could be more versatile, but I always think it's weird to wear a jacket without a tie. Maybe it's some issue I have from attenting a private high school. I'd say keep the tie, but mayne wear a knit tie or grenadine.

 

[mikealvaa]

I also live in NYC and I have a few thoughts.

1) Your outfit looks great. You're jacket and trousers fit well. How do you wear it? Do you wear it casually for work? What industry to do you work in. You do NOT look like a used car salesman mostly because it's put together well. I have never seen a used car salesman in a suit that fits well or is put together well. The only piece of feedback is that jacket looks a bit English country gentleman (I mean this as a complement), wheras a more standard navy blazer with the same trousers will look a bit more appropriate for the city.

2) When living in New York, keep in mind it is one of the most important commercial and cultural centers in the world. Period. I feel that people that live here should dress well in whatever. If the acceptable uniform for men, are Crocs, cargo shorts, a graphic or sports t-shirt and Oakleys, why live here with the expensive rent and noise and other inconveniences? New York is an important place where important people do important things. You should dress like that and people with taste and cultural education DO notice.

3) I agree losing the tie could be more versatile, but I always think it's weird to wear a jacket without a tie. Maybe it's some issue I have from attenting a private high school. I'd say keep the tie, but mayne wear a knit tie or grenadine.

Im just getting on my computer so I can type properly, so my apologies on the short response @jeremygo. I appreciate your advice. Currently, I'm in between jobs interviewing at a few firms. Ive worked my way up in the legal field for the past 6 years going from a legal assistant to a department director managing paralegals. Currently, I am unemployed but prepping on going back into the office, which is why I've been posting asking for a lot of advice.

Ive mostly worked in downtown Manhattan but I feel like the standard here has dropped dramatically since 2020, not that it matters to me. I like to dress proper. I have been pretty indifferent with my style lately as I'm trying to move away from trends and have a wardrobe I could keep until an older age. Im really big on the classic American look without looking TOO preppy. I want to avoid looking like a RL or BB ad being I didn't grow up that way in the slightest. I am a second gen immigrant with parents who migrated from South America. So I can't really relate to the generational American lifestyle.

 

[corpseposeur]

Im just getting on my computer so I can type properly, so my apologies on the short response @jeremygo. I appreciate your advice. Currently, I'm in between job interviewing as a few firms. Ive worked my way up in the legal field for the past 6 years going from a legal assistant to a department director managing paralegals. Currently, I am unemployed but prepping on going back into the office, which is why I've been posting asking a lot of advice.

Ive mostly worked in downtown Manhattan but I feel like the standard here has dropped dramatically since 2020, not that it matters to me. I like to dress proper. I have been pretty indifferent with my style lately as I'm trying to move away from trends and have a wardrobe I could keep until an older age. Im really big on the classic American look without looking TOO preppy. I want to avoid looking like a RL or BB ad being I didn't grow up that way in the slightest. I am a second gen immigrant with parents who migrated from South America. So I can't really relate to the generational American lifestyle.

This is helpful context. If for work or interviews, I think a dark navy jacket in a soft construction is a good staple. I would recommend this over the tweed jacket.

Pair with those same flannels in your photo or maybe darker grey shades and a light blue button down with or without a tie is a solid outfit. I think that's a solid interview look for your profession.

If you're into the classic American look, I'd recommend belts over suspenders which, while not so unusual, it is more of a British thing and also associated with Gordon Gecko.

 

[mikealvaa]

This is helpful context. If for work or interviews, I think a dark navy jacket in a soft construction is a good staple. I would recommend this over the tweed jacket.

Pair with those same flannels in your photo or maybe darker grey shades and a light blue button down with or without a tie is a solid outfit. I think that's a solid interview look for your profession.

If you're into the classic American look, I'd recommend belts over suspenders which, while not so unusual, it is more of a British thing and also associated with Gordon Gecko.

you know, I've actually been searching for a wool navy sports coat that doesn't have patterns or gold buttons for a few months.

Its been surprisingly difficult to find at a decent price. I own a wool DB blazer from Polo and a wool/cashmere DB blazer from RL Purple label, both navy. But im not sure a DB is appropriate for interviews.

Because of the fit, my closet is only RL and BB, ranging from Polo to Purple Label and 1818 to Golden Fleece. I tend to stick with these brands bc they fit me so well needing only slightttt alterations. Im pretty slim but with broad shoulders, at least thats what the tailors tell me.

Also, my left shoulder slouches more than my right so sometimes shoulders on other makers wrinkle a bit, but not with RL and BB for some reason.

 

[breakaway01]

agree with many of the opinions expressed so far.
I would not wear that outfit to an interview especially at a law firm. You will want a more conservative jacket or suit.

As far as gold buttons on navy blazers go, very easy to swap buttons out. You can even do it yourself; if it's your first time it might take 2 hours including the sleeve buttons.

 

[mikealvaa]

agree with many of the opinions expressed so far.
I would not wear that outfit to an interview especially at a law firm. You will want a more conservative jacket or suit.

As far as gold buttons on navy blazers go, very easy to swap buttons out. You can even do it yourself; if it's your first time it might take 2 hours including the sleeve buttons.

Agreed. I wasn't planning on wearing it for an interview. I was thinking Grey or Navy suit tbh. I just picked up these vintage pants and took a flick which eventually spiraled into this post lol

I do have a BB Navy Blazer with gold buttons. What buttons do you recommend swiping them out for? Maybe a horn grey or brown?

 

[Thin White Duke]

I generally concur with the above comments but will add this:

I’m frequently complaining on the WAYWRN thread about pics with ankle strangling trouser hems. For full disclosure I’m an advocate of slim but not skinny flat front strides. The reflexive feeling I got from your pic was your strides are the opposite - for an early thirties slim lad like you, even accepting that the trend has more recently moved to single pleated looser strides, the ones you’re wearing look very dated and ‘old man’ style, forking as they do down near your knees rather than closer to the actual fork around your crotch. This outfit would look immediately less dated, less ‘costume’, more modern, with slimmer fitting strides.

For me pleats or no pleats should be more a function of desired fit than trend. If you want / need to have high waisted strides then pleats (or even darts) can help to shape the top block over your hips provided your hips are indeed wider than your waist. If you prefer a lower rise then you don’t need pleats to shape the top block over your hips. The decision to pleat or not should have nothing to do with what is being pushed out of fashion houses at any particular time.

TL/dr: - get slimmer trousers!😁

 

[corpseposeur]

you know, I've actually been searching for a wool navy sports coat that doesn't have patterns or gold buttons for a few months.

Its been surprisingly difficult to find at a decent price. I own a wool DB blazer from Polo and a wool/cashmere DB blazer from RL Purple label, both navy. But im not sure a DB is appropriate for interviews.

Because of the fit, my closet is only RL and BB, ranging from Polo to Purple Label and 1818 to Golden Fleece. I tend to stick with these brands bc they fit me so well needing only slightttt alterations. Im pretty slim but with broad shoulders, at least thats what the tailors tell me.

Also, my left shoulder slouches more than my right so sometimes shoulders on other makers wrinkle a bit, but not with RL and BB for some reason.

You may want to go for a made to measure (MTM). Some MTM's pricing is comparable to the brands mentioned but they'll fit you better. There are many fantastic international tailors that visit NY.

I can recommend Redmayne's. The cutter is a gentleman named Tom Mahon and he's great but he also used to be head cutter at Savile Row's Anderson and Sheppard. I believe it's that cut that Ralph Lauren tried to replicate but there are others who are more knowledgeable about it than I am. Redmayne's has a soft, tailored coat which is in line with that you're looking for. I have two MTM jackets and a bespoke jacket and 2 bespoke suits that Tom's done for me that I am happy with.

Made To Measure

At Redmayne we give the same level of attention to detail to our made to measure clients that we give to our bespoke tailoring clients. Combine that with Savile Row bespoke tailoring experience since 1860 and you know you're in for a superb suit that's sure to turn heads.

redmayne1860.com

They also have a "suit copying service" where you can ship them a coat that fits well and they can use the measurements and use that for a MTM jacket from their pattern. I tried this for my first order and it was very easy.

I think you get a lot of value for money has their prices start at $1040 or $1430 for a hand finished option (i'd go for the hand finishing) . They may charge a bit more for specific fabric, but take a look at their house cloths and you're likely to find a good navy hopsack or something. The tricky thing is to visit them when they're in town which may or may not work with your time frame but you will get an excellent suit in British cloth. I believe they are visiting NYC in April.

Alternatively, J. Press may have some good options as they are a classic historic American tailoring shop.

 

[rjc149]

The pleats and suspenders read a little bit...vintage.

Personally, I think ties should only be worn with suits. Wearing them with blazers/sportcoats, for me, evoke images of WASPs, Protestant ministers, school boys or door-to-door salesmen. If you're going to wear a tie, wear a suit. Otherwise leave it off. Ties in general are slowly but surely fading into obsolescence, even with suits. Maybe not a popular opinion with the sartorially enthusiastic, but probably a more honest reflection of modern sentiments.

 

[mikealvaa]

I generally concur with the above comments but will add this:

I’m frequently complaining on the WAYWRN thread about pics with ankle strangling trouser hems. For full disclosure I’m an advocate of slim but not skinny flat front strides. The reflexive feeling I got from your pic was your strides are the opposite - for an early thirties slim lad like you, even accepting that the trend has more recently moved to single pleated looser strides, the ones you’re wearing look very dated and ‘old man’ style, forking as they do down near your knees rather than closer to the actual fork around your crotch. This outfit would look immediately less dated, less ‘costume’, more modern, with slimmer fitting strides.

For me pleats or no pleats should be more a function of desired fit than trend. If you want / need to have high waisted strides then pleats (or even darts) can help to shape the top block over your hips provided your hips are indeed wider than your waist. If you prefer a lower rise then you don’t need pleats to shape the top block over your hips. The decision to pleat or not should have nothing to do with what is being pushed out of fashion houses at any particular time.

TL/dr: - get slimmer trousers!😁

Well the pants are from the 80s lol but I get what your saying.

Can you explain strides to me?

I do really like the full cut and how comfortable they are with braces. But I never considered it looking dated tbh, and you do bring up some good points.

atm, I'm having a bunch of work done on these suits (I attached the photos) and I'm not a fan of how tight the trousers feel to me. I do have a trendier style when I'm not at the office that consists of looser fitting pants and tops so when I got back into my tailored pieces it feels constricting.

also note that im letting the hem out on the linen/silk DB suit about an inch.

 

[mikealvaa]

The pleats and suspenders read a little bit...vintage.

Personally, I think ties should only be worn with suits. Wearing them with blazers/sportcoats, for me, evoke images of WASPs, Protestant ministers, school boys or door-to-door salesmen. If you're going to wear a tie, wear a suit. Otherwise leave it off. Ties in general are slowly but surely fading into obsolescence, even with suits. Maybe not a popular opinion with the sartorially enthusiastic, but probably a more honest reflection of modern sentiments.

Noted on the tie advice. I never considered that.

I really do love the look of pleats and braces. I feel there’s a way to do it without looking dated. Maybe I’m not pulling it off correctly. I just really don’t like how slim things have gotten.