Suede Shoe Design Question

[goodlensboy]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Thanks all for your comments (and kind words).
To answer some questions about the leather: I am not sure what defines a "true" suede. I am looking at several skins and while a few look to be split or shaggier (and so perhaps "true" suede), the particular one I have in mind is a full grain and so may be thought of as nubuck. It also has a very fine nap.
Here by the way is an example of a plain toe brown suede shoes for work (not my work):
Same pair, I think, in use.

Even if I went this route, the pair I get would look different as they would be welted and of a thicker leather.
If I went with a hand stitched lake, i might actually go in the opposite direction from the Ecton, deploying suede in its traditional country use as a full-on chasse model. The Lobb on-line museum model, has a great example, though not in suede

.
Also, looking through the Suede shoe thread, I noticed how much I like the two/three eyelet derby model, but also the traditional captoe (and the medward balmoral variant). In sum, I remain undecided.

For me, captoes in suede look best in medium brown

 

[DocHolliday]

I happen to be wearing a country shoe in dark brown suede today. Church's Amersham, a wingtip bal with big, fat broguing on a chunky last. Very versatile -- one of the few bals I'd wear casually.

 

[NORE]



I am thinking of getting a pair of dark brown suede shoes. The dark brown is very dark, the leather is thick and soft and the nap is lush, but short. What shoe do you think this leather wants to be?

Available here

Mine are super comfy.

 

[poorsod]

My favorite ideas for dark suede. Corthay Bob in 002. Balmoral Boot.

Here is my Shannon2 which I got a few months ago, in dark oak and mink suede:

 

[poorsod]

This is also quite nice.

 

[NORE]

Those do look nice.

 

[dopey]

Assuming the skin is still available and the shop confirms its ability to execute the technical details, I will be going with a Chasse model, like the EG Dover or Weston Hunt shoe. In other words, like the below, except it will look completely different

This is also quite nice.

Given the thickness of the hide, I decided to get a more robust makeup, so this will be storm or reverse welted, double soled, skin stitched apron and toe and a skin stitched, curved seam on the inside rear (rather than a back seam). In other words, based on the old Lobb model and like the waxed calf one I already have (though with a high walled blunted toe).

 

[fritzl]



Assuming the skin is still available and the shop confirms its ability to execute the technical details,

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I will be going with a Chasse model, like the EG Dover or Weston Hunt shoe. In other words, like the below, except it will look completely different
Given the thickness of the hide, I decided to get a more robust makeup, so this will be storm or reverse welted, double soled, skin stitched apron and toe and a skin stitched, curved seam on the inside rear (rather than a back seam). In other words, based on the old Lobb model and like the waxed calf one I already have (though with a high walled blunted toe).

sounds promising. good luck.

 

[dopey]



sounds promising. good luck.

Thanks. Still some details to check on, but I will know soon enough. If not, I have a backup plan in a different suede.

 

[fritzl]



Thanks. Still some details to check on, but I will know soon enough. If not, I have a backup plan in a different suede.

i'm not worried. you know the game.

 

[poorsod]



Assuming the skin is still available and the shop confirms its ability to execute the technical details, I will be going with a Chasse model, like the EG Dover or Weston Hunt shoe. In other words, like the below, except it will look completely different
Given the thickness of the hide, I decided to get a more robust makeup, so this will be storm or reverse welted, double soled, skin stitched apron and toe and a skin stitched, curved seam on the inside rear (rather than a back seam). In other words, based on the old Lobb model and like the waxed calf one I already have (though with a high walled blunted toe).

Are you using JM Weston? Their Chasse is quite a gunboat.

 

[dopey]



Are you using JM Weston? Their Chasse is quite a gunboat.

No, though I do like their Hunt Derby. Mine will not be a triple sole and I am sure other proportions will be different - for example, I wanted a higher walled toe-box and the Weston chasse has a relatively small apron.

 

[fritzl]



No, though I do like their Hunt Derby. Mine will not be a triple sole and I am sure other proportions will be different - for example, I wanted a higher walled toe-box and the Weston chasse has a relatively small apron.

not many can do that. very mysterious.

 

[dopey]

not many can do that. very mysterious.

No mystery intended. Foster & Son. I thought I had mentioned that elsewhere, but perhaps not.
In other threads, I had posted pictures of the slipons and captoes they had made for me.

 

[poorsod]



No mystery intended. Foster & Son. I thought I had mentioned that elsewhere, but perhaps not.
In other threads, I had posted pictures of the slipons and captoes they had made for me.

Do you happen to have links to the pictures?

I dropped by their store on Jermyn street last summer and it seemed to me they were more a RTW organization. I was looking for their bespoke samples and don't recall seeing them. I was just looking around and didn't ask though.