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Thank you.
That was the one. I look forward to this trifecta
My favorite photo. I can't bring myself to get one of these, but it looks really cool. Were you even a little bit tempted to get rid of the basting thread and leave it this way, with the chalk marks?
I think Edwin would normally match, but we were dealing with limited fabric here, so we'll see. I don't have a preference, but now that you have me thinking about it again, I might change my mind...
Matching (where the lapel is laid on the body so all the lines line up) is always done with sewn-on shawl lapels on waistcoats. I can check when I am home, but I am pretty sure that my Dege tweed suit waistcoat has the lapels sewn on to look like they were folded (as if they were normal lapels). Of all my lapelled waistcoats from Dege, probably a half-dozen or so, only this one has any pattern more elaborate than a donegal.
Does this mean the lapels on the waistcoat will be sewn on, rather than rolled? Any reason? I like rolled with flannels, otherwise I leave it as tailor's choice.
I seem to be late to every party these days but the proper tailoring term for the different lapel constructions is "cut on" vs "grown on". I have older texts that show a cut on lapel with a under lapel dart to give it more roll, and I really don't know why this technique has fallen by the wayside.
I prefer "sewn on" v. "grown on." It rhymes, you see.
Mostly, it is an artifact of this fitting stage.
I prefer "sewn on" v. "grown on." It rhymes, you see.
Are you trying to say you prefer your waistcoat lapels "cut on" rather than "grown on"? Or are you trying to say that you prefer the expression "sewn on" to "cut on"?