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Steed (E. DeBoise) Bespoke Suit, Odd Jacket, and Odd Vest Fittings (Winter 2009)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jan 27, 2009.

  1. adambparker

    adambparker Senior member

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    Is it just me, or does the fresco look a bit ... laconic?
     
  2. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The plaid should be a suit, not a jacket.
     
  3. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    . . .



    Sounds great...look forward to seeing it.


    - B


    I don't post photos of me wearing clothes or clothes I wear or even clothes I don't wear in interesting combinations. Rather, I provide textual suggestions to serve as mental thought inspiration and a font of commentary for the sartorially aspirationaling dresser.
     
  4. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    The plaid should be a suit, not a jacket.

    +1. 3 pc suit or I call a total wimp-out. [​IMG]
     
  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Promising start...can't wait to see the finished product.

    Likewise with your Breanish.


    - B
     
  6. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    I don't post pics but juice everyone else on the pics they post.

    fix'd (translated)
     
  7. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Cool pics and the one piece back thing is amazing. Don't quit the day job to set up shop as a lyricist, though. Just saying.
     
  8. &Son

    &Son Senior member

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    Love the DB. Fantastic stuff.
     
  9. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    fix'd (translated)

    The internet is an asymmetrical world. It's why lazy people like me like it.
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    ..
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2012
  11. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    . . . [​IMG] ...
    My favorite photo. I can't bring myself to get one of these, but it looks really cool. Were you even a little bit tempted to get rid of the basting thread and leave it this way, with the chalk marks? It would be like a super-cool version of this: [​IMG] The ghostly chalk outline of a DB waistcoat on the dark blue cloth looks really great. Maybe wear it once, to a party, and then send it off to be finished.
     
  12. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    I would have liked that, but only had enough length of it to do the jacket and an odd vest.

    The one piece back and patch pockets take up a lot of cutting real estate.




    - B


    Wear them together with chocolate or cream flannel slacks and you're redeemed. [​IMG]
     
  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    ..
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2012
  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Wear them together with chocolate or cream flannel slacks and you're redeemed. [​IMG]

    Dang...great suggestions!

    - B
     
  15. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    What's up with the back, near the blades? Is it posture in the pictures? Is it cut very loose there? It looks like there is an excess of cloth.
     
  16. adambparker

    adambparker Senior member

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    Wait...small "l" or big "L?"

    - B


    Clearly...you...I...meant.
     
  17. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    ...The two tweed jackets are done up on the softer side (I don't meant construction, but cut). There is no front cut or dart. There are no sidebodies, only the underarm cut that is not visible when the arms are lowered. In these particular cases, moreover, there is no back seam. Yet, even so, I think you can see that there is a lot of shaping to the jackets even at this stage. There is a lot of cutting and tailoring craft here, I suggest. Unlike what is pretty much the case on Savile Row these days, Edwin's coatmaker is "in-house," an employee and not an outworker. I think that helps in complex cases....
    Is such shaping durable to wear, moisture, cleaning?
    It would only be a problem if people are taking flash photograph of your ass, and then only in the photograph...
    The front sometimes, but not the back, not that I know of. Thanks.

    Single forward pleat on the pants?
    I don't post photos of me wearing clothes or clothes I wear or even clothes I don't wear in interesting combinations. Rather, I provide textual suggestions and ask interesting questions to serve as mental thought inspiration and a font of commentary for the sartorially aspirationaling dresser.
    fixed
     
  18. dkzzzz

    dkzzzz Senior member

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    Roped shoulders your r not.
    I would go for natural shoulder 2-but or 1-but suit with lower gorge, for your body type.
    Out of these I like the look of DB suit on you, but the rest makes you look a bit heavy and architectural.
     
  19. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think SoCal has deconstruction covered already.

    And for those of you whose eyes are not as practiced with this sort of thing, if you look closely, you can see the outline of the lapel facings for the vests, and the pinch representing the pleat that will go into each bottom pocket.

    And no: no loud linings for me. If I want something like that, I'll go see Paul Winston for something truly Waspy.


    - B


    Does this mean the lapels on the waistcoat will be sewn on, rather than rolled? Any reason? I like rolled with flannels, otherwise I leave it as tailor's choice. Since he is doing sewn, how will they be laid out - matching the plaid, or to look as if they were folded over?

    Nice touch on the jacket pocket pleats. I hadn't noted that first time. I had a sportcoat like that with pleats in all three pockets. It was silk and wore out. I was saving it to have it copied, but my wife disappeared it.

    Will there be a band (like a wide besom) at the top of the pockets? That is what mine had on all three (I urge pleats for the breast pocket as well).

    I went a different route on my recent sportcoat order - bellows hip patch pockets with button closures. Yours are more suave. I wanted more rustic (and really wanted the bellows).
     
  20. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    ..
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2012

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