Square-toed shoes

[jcusey]

Thanks Jcusey. This is true description true for both blake stitched shoes and for the channelling on Goodyear welted shoes, such as C&J Handgrade?

Yes. The only difference is that on Blake-constructed shoes, the stitching goes through the insole while on Goodyear-welted shoes, it goes through the welt. The channel would have to go further in from the edge of the sole on Blake-constructed shoes, obviously, but it's the same idea.

 

[BGW]

I presume that the waterproofing benefit would not exist for goodyear welted shoes, as the seam does not protrude into the sole. Why then is channelling desirable?

 

[jcusey]

I presume that the waterproofing benefit would not exist for goodyear welted shoes, as the seam does not protrude into the sole. Why then is channelling desirable?

Well, it will delay the abrasion of the sole stitching, although it's mostly for visual appeal.

 

[BGW]

But the added visual appeal is on the bottom of the shoe?

 

[jcusey]

But the added visual appeal is on the bottom of the shoe?

Sure. Why do you think the best shoemakers lavish so much effort on the finishing and polishing the sole of the shoe? I don't want the shoe to be a work of art on top and a piece of junk underneath. People see the soles of your shoes all the time. More importantly for me, I see the soles of my shoes all the time.

 

[BGW]

Oh, I don't doubt the significance of channelling. I just wanted to make sure it did not relate to the stitching I often see around the outside of the sole visible from above the shoe. What purpose does this serve?

 

[FCS]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but is anyone up to ban marc_au / marc37? I'm sure I'm not the only one tired to see his inane postings (and pictures).

 

[jcusey]

Oh, I don't doubt the significance of channelling. I just wanted to make sure it did not relate to the stitching I often see around the outside of the sole visible from above the shoe. What purpose does this serve?

Well, that depends on the method used to construct the shoe. If it's a Goodyear-welted shoe, then the stitching attaches the welt strip to the outsole:

If it's a Rapid-constructed (or rather, a Blake/Rapid-constructed) shoe, it will lockstitch the topsole to the outsole:

Oh, and it's also done for looks.

 

[jcusey]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but is anyone up to ban marc_au / marc37? I'm sure I'm not the only one tired to see his inane postings (and pictures).

I'm not unaware of where you're coming from, but I think that it might be better to take it up with j directly if you have a serious problem with another poster.

 

[norcaltransplant]

Why do you think the best shoemakers lavish so much effort on the finishing and polishing the sole of the shoe? I don't want the shoe to be a work of art on top and a piece of junk underneath. People see the soles of your shoes all the time. More importantly for me, I see the soles of my shoes all the time.

Sweet. Im not the only wierdo on this forum. I suppose that others also add a bit of polish to the soles of their shoes? Specifically, I try to maintain the finish underneath the arch of my foot that doesn't make contact with the ground--e.g. the black portion of the sole in an Edward Green.

 

[jcusey]

Sweet. Im not the only wierdo on this forum. I suppose that others also add a bit of polish to the soles of their shoes? Specifically, I try to maintain the finish underneath the arch of my foot that doesn't make contact with the ground--e.g. the black portion of the sole in an Edward Green.

Hey. Who are you calling a wierdo?

The thing about EG (and JL Paris and C&J and Grenson) is that that pretty tan finish on the soles will run and otherwise look like hell if it gets wet. I don't like that one little bit. Vass shoes have a much paler sole staining. I remember when I first got mine, I told Gabor that I preferred the way that EG finished their soles. He responded that Mr. Vass believed that his way was more attractive when the shoes had some wear on them. Well, Mr. Vass is right: the finish on his soles doesn't run when it gets wet.

Edit: And I'm afraid that I've fallen off the wagon since last I commented about how long it had been since I bought new shoes.

 

[BGW]

Jcusey: Thank you very much for the detailed explanation.

 

[T4phage]

Thanks to Aharris, Jcusey, and RIDER for their support. Â

To some extent Jcusey was right why I don't like Blake - the water issue. Â But that doesn't stop me from buying them (like my new tod's boot - a side elastic with an apron front done in suede). Also, there is the workmanship issue - if there are two shoes that are very similar, I would buy the goodyear over the Blake any day - but again that hasn't stopped me from buying blake lasted shoes (like the beautiful antiqued Barrett). Â I've also been told that you cannot resole blake shoes (?). edit: oh yes - blakes are more flexible than goodyear which is a positive.

 

[jcusey]

I've also been told that you cannot resole blake shoes (?).

I don't believe that this is accurate. I've been told that it's much more difficult to find someone who has both the necessary machinery and the necessary skills to do it correctly, but it is possible.

 

[LabelKing]

Why do you think the best shoemakers lavish so much effort on the finishing and polishing the sole of the shoe? I don't want the shoe to be a work of art on top and a piece of junk underneath. People see the soles of your shoes all the time. More importantly for me, I see the soles of my shoes all the time.

How do people see the soles of your shoes all the time?

I suppose on a technical basis people do if someone happened to be staring at a diagonal angle towards a person in front walking. But that doesn't really justify your statement.

I polish my soles. A la Gloria Swanson. Lattanzi does a beautiful sole as well.