Split Toe Derby

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

AFAIK some makers like GG will colour hatch while others like AM will patina it. Both are permanent. But applying polish seems lazy and not permanent.

That would be my concern. How are they achieving the desired color? Bypassing the mystery to order from another maker that has the preferred color on hand seems a better decision.

 

[clee1982]

well, if you consider Yeossal can also consider SoH x OT, OT's last offering is less overwhelming and based on their website looks like they have Horween hatchgrain espresso available (though don't have dark brown)

 

[JohnMRobie]

Based on this BN7 could work and be less sleek (opt for the beveled waist over fiddle or could even ask if they could do it with a square waist)

Or you could opt for the GQ06 to go even less sleek

 

[kg13]

Thanks a ton everyone! Will reach out to An Hy and Yeossal super excited to get a project going

 

[kg13]

What are your thoughts on the differences between Horween hatch grain and Haas Utah calf? How differently do they wear and age?

 

[JohnMRobie]

They both have a hatch grain pattern. Utah is great - soft and supple. The horween feels more substantial and sturdier to me. Not a bad decision to be made but different. Edit/ I realized this may sound like an endorsement of Utah by saying it’s great. Both my grained split toes are horween.

But paging Dr @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes for the guy with leather questions.

 

[kg13]

They both have a hatch grain pattern. Utah is great - soft and supple. The horween feels more substantial and sturdier to me. Not a bad decision to be made but different. Edit/ I realized this may sound like an endorsement of Utah by saying it’s great. Both my grained split toes are horween.

But paging Dr @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes for the guy with leather questions.

Thank you! I'm choosing between saddle brown hatch and dark brown utah calf. Looks wise, they're very similar. Just wanna hear how they both hold up over time! Would love to own a pair in each leather in the future haha

 

[JohnMRobie]

I’m not the leather expert but having both leathers my take - The saddle horween is money - I think personally that it looks better than Utah with the hatch being a little more pronounced and having some more depth initially - believe it’s aniline and then printed and is sturdier feeling - Mine has aged very well.

the Utah is super supple and soft/pliable since it’s vegetable tanned and stuffed with various oils. Really ridiculously easy to care for and easy to break in. It ages well and will probably patina a bit more over time.

Can’t go wrong with either just preference.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

They both have a hatch grain pattern. Utah is great - soft and supple. The horween feels more substantial and sturdier to me. Not a bad decision to be made but different. Edit/ I realized this may sound like an endorsement of Utah by saying it’s great. Both my grained split toes are horween.

But paging Dr @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes for the guy with leather questions.

Thank you! I'm choosing between saddle brown hatch and dark brown utah calf. Looks wise, they're very similar. Just wanna hear how they both hold up over time! Would love to own a pair in each leather in the future haha

Both hold up well. Hatch grain is chrome tanned while Utah is vegetable tanned.

Like @Jmr928 mentioned, the Utah is softer and because it is vegetable tanned you can expect a patina to develop.

The hatch grain would remain consistent. It will just age as in look used, but not age naturally like the Utah.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I’m not the leather expert but having both leathers my take - The saddle horween is money - I think personally that it looks better than Utah with the hatch being a little more pronounced and having some more depth initially - believe it’s aniline and then printed and is sturdier feeling - Mine has aged very well.

the Utah is super supple and soft/pliable since it’s vegetable tanned and stuffed with various oils. Really ridiculously easy to care for and easy to break in. It ages well and will probably patina a bit more over time.

Can’t go wrong with either just preference.

Both are pretty easy to take care of.
Hatch grain definitely has a firmer hand feel. Tighter grain. It has a matte appearance.

Utah has a greasy supple look due to those 9 fats and oils @Jmr928 just mentioned.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Thank you! I'm choosing between saddle brown hatch and dark brown utah calf. Looks wise, they're very similar. Just wanna hear how they both hold up over time! Would love to own a pair in each leather in the future haha

Owning a pair in both leathers is not a bad idea. If you had to choose one, choose the one that doesn't require altering it in any way. ?

 

[JustPullHarder]

I thought Utah, delapre, and Novonappa are all the same product and it's a veg retan?

 

[JohnMRobie]

I thought Utah, delapre, and Novonappa are all the same product and it's a veg retan?

Utah has the grain embossed in it, delapre and novonappa I believe are the same product with different makers using different names but yes the base product is the same and novo/delapre is just non-hatch Utah and they all come from Haas so same product in that regard.

Horween can hatch any of their products - the most commonly used one that we are talking about here comparing to Utah is called pioneer I think? Think they also have one in limited colors that is toggle dried that some Italian makers use and they also have hatch grained cordovan - I think EB is the main maker I’ve seen use that one which to be honest seems a shame to take shell and emboss it.

 

[deadfisheyes]

I thought Utah, delapre, and Novonappa are all the same product and it's a veg retan?

Utah has the grain embossed in it, delapre and novonappa I believe are the same product with different makers using different names but yes the base product is the same and novo/delapre is just non-hatch Utah and they all come from Haas so same product in that regard.

Horween can hatch any of their products - the most commonly used one that we are talking about here comparing to Utah is called pioneer I think? Think they also have one in limited colors that is toggle dried that some Italian makers use and they also have hatch grained cordovan - I think EB is the main maker I’ve seen use that one which to be honest seems a shame to take shell and emboss it.

The article name from the tannery is Novonappa. Delapre is how EG calls it (Hermes calls it Barenia). Utah is name EG uses for Novonappa with the hatch emboss.
Novanappa is also combination tanned/ veg retan; not a straight veg tan.
The toggle dried horween hatchgrain article you are talking about must be the Arlington. I have seen Stefano Bemer uses a Horsefront leather with hatchgrain emboss, probably exclusive to them.

 

[JustPullHarder]

Yes. Sorry I meant the same base leather with or without branding and/or hatching.