Split Toe Derby

[dieworkwear]

So here’s one for the brain-trust here. Alden of Carmel did a run of NST saddle derbies. Has any other maker done that? Or do we know of anyone who’d be willing to do that?

StC can do that. Just ask them to add a split toe seam on this

Saddle Derby, hand sewn, Norwegian apron - Saint Crispin's

www.saintcrispins.com

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

??, @TheLawBeard, well there you go. I'll go on the limb and add any MTO maker making SpTDs should be able to produce it for you.
As I mentioned, shouldn't be too tough.

 

[TheLawBeard]

Offhand I can't think of anyone that has produced a saddle SpTD other than Alden. Saying that, I can't imagine it is too difficult to produce. You will have to MTO it obviously.

You wanted a contrast-colored leather or a different textured piece across the instep?

I’ve thought about contrasting. But I really do just like the look of the saddle with it. Ideally I’d probably get it in shell too.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I’ve thought about contrasting. But I really do just like the look of the saddle with it. Ideally I’d probably get it in shell too.

What SpTD catches your eye the most? Alden or did you have another in mind?

 

[TheLawBeard]

What SpTD catches your eye the most? Alden or did you have another in mind?

Ideally something in a more casual last. My feet don’t even remotely enjoy most of the “sleek” lasts. So something I could wear semi-casually would be the goal.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Ideally something in a more casual last. My feet don’t even remotely enjoy most of the “sleek” lasts. So something I could wear semi-casually would be the goal.

Alright, so an Alden type shoe. Robust. I'm guessing a dbl sole? You have preferences in terms of construction? Apron stitch?

Ideally it would be great if Alden can do it. Been away from the Alden game, but hopefully someone up to date with their product offerings can answer if MTOs with them are an option.

I'm not sure why Tricker's immediately came to mind. Take a look at what their SpTDs look like. I think Enzo Bonafe makes a hefty looking SpTD along with Vass.
Definitely casual with freedom of movement.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

@boot_owl if I recall correctly I think HoA makes a casual SpTD that isn't sleek. I know MTO is a possibility. Can they make a saddle SpTD?

 

[boot_owl]

@boot_owl if I recall correctly I think HoA makes a casual SpTD that isn't sleek. I know MTO is a possibility. Can they make a saddle SpTD?

Afraid not - Mattinas MTO is essentially excess RTW capability, so they’re not keen on custom patterns without a sizable RTW run

 

[TC11201]

Alright, so an Alden type shoe. Robust. I'm guessing a dbl sole? You have preferences in terms of construction? Apron stitch?

Ideally it would be great if Alden can do it. Been away from the Alden game, but hopefully someone up to date with their product offerings can answer if MTOs with them are an option.

I'm not sure why Tricker's immediately came to mind. Take a look at what their SpTDs look like. I think Enzo Bonafe makes a hefty looking SpTD along with Vass.
Definitely casual with freedom of movement.

Regulars on the Alden Appreciation thread would know for sure, but I don’t believe that Alden is doing individual MTOs anymore (at least for mortals). They’re pretty fully booked with larger MTO runs for the current retailers. You could check with one of the Alden-owned stores like Alden of Madison or DC to confirm. Or message @mdubs, who knows everything there is to know re: Alden.

Three other ideas -

1) watch the usual Alden special make-up purveyors (AoC, Brogue, Ealdwine, Brick + Mortar, as well as some of the Japanese shops like Lakota House, etc) to see if anything catches your eye, but also try reaching out to the proprietors of said shops, especially if you have a relationship, to see if they’d do the Saddle NST as one of their upcoming make-ups. They’re largely very responsive, they source ideas from their customers pretty frequently and a saddle NST would stand-out, which has to be welcome.

2) check out Joe Works as a possibility. They very much seem to work in this vein and seem to be either MTO-heavy or MTO-only. I don’t have first hand experience, but at least from their insta and others’, their stuff is drool-worthy. Think there’s a shop in Vancouver that does/did MTOs with them - https://milohshop.com/collections/joe-works-shoemaker.

3) no idea if they have a saddle StD, but worth quickly checking Paraboot and Heschung, in addition to Tricker’s, for that same robust, OTR look.

good luck!

 

[clee1982]

So here’s one for the brain-trust here. Alden of Carmel did a run of NST saddle derbies. Has any other maker done that? Or do we know of anyone who’d be willing to do that?

I'm pretty sure I saw Leather Soul did one as well (but you know how it is with leather soul, since are sold out before they even appear?)

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Regulars on the Alden Appreciation thread would know for sure, but I don’t believe that Alden is doing individual MTOs anymore (at least for mortals). They’re pretty fully booked with larger MTO runs for the current retailers. You could check with one of the Alden-owned stores like Alden of Madison or DC to confirm. Or message @mdubs, who knows everything there is to know re: Alden.

Three other ideas -

1) watch the usual Alden special make-up purveyors (AoC, Brogue, Ealdwine, Brick + Mortar, as well as some of the Japanese shops like Lakota House, etc) to see if anything catches your eye, but also try reaching out to the proprietors of said shops, especially if you have a relationship, to see if they’d do the Saddle NST as one of their upcoming make-ups. They’re largely very responsive, they source ideas from their customers pretty frequently and a saddle NST would stand-out, which has to be welcome.

2) check out Joe Works as a possibility. They very much seem to work in this vein and seem to be either MTO-heavy or MTO-only. I don’t have first hand experience, but at least from their insta and others’, their stuff is drool-worthy. Think there’s a shop in Vancouver that does/did MTOs with them - https://milohshop.com/collections/joe-works-shoemaker.

3) no idea if they have a saddle StD, but worth quickly checking Paraboot and Heschung, in addition to Tricker’s, for that same robust, OTR look.

good luck!

Joe works is a solid option. It falls in between the sleek and robust lasts.

You put a dbl sole on this one, along with a saddle pattern, it can pass for casual to semi-casual.

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

My new norwegers form Vass arrived yesterday. I am really happy with them, once I open the box I remembered why I enjoy shoes and love this rabbit hole.

I am glad that some of my money has gone to Vass during these horrible C-19 years. I hope the shoemaking craft we all praise and love will survive when we return to normality.

Model: Norweger
Colour: Antique cognac scotchgrain
Welt: 270
Sole: Vibram Commando
Last: P

The last picture shows my little Vass parade, suede, scotchgrain, calf and calf for backup.

 

[GeneralEmployer]

So here’s one for the brain-trust here. Alden of Carmel did a run of NST saddle derbies. Has any other maker done that? Or do we know of anyone who’d be willing to do that?

Do you have a pic of this? Also, anybody have experience with saddle leather in shoes? I think the thickness of the leather would make it a bit uncomfortable, but never seen these in the wild.

 

[clee1982]

Do you have a pic of this? Also, anybody have experience with saddle leather in shoes? I think the thickness of the leather would make it a bit uncomfortable, but never seen these in the wild.

like this guy?

Alden Shoes - NST Saddle Blucher (LSW) - Leather Soul

Alden’s NST (Norwegian Split Toe) blucher is an iconic American shoe. Four skillful ladies at the Alden Shoe Company factory meticulously hand sew every NST that makes it to store shelves all around the world. It’s a little detail that … Continue reading →

leathersoul.com

edit: and a spring version too

Alden Shoes - NST Spring Saddle (LSW) - Leather Soul

Spring is the perfect time for saddle shoes. Our newest Alden rendition is the NST Spring Saddle. Supple tan vegano calf coupled with brown alpine grain calf will put a little Spring in your step. A double oiled waterlock sole … Continue reading →

leathersoul.com

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Do you have a pic of this? Also, anybody have experience with saddle leather in shoes? I think the thickness of the leather would make it a bit uncomfortable, but never seen these in the wild.

To answer the question directly, I do not have shoes made from saddle.

Saddle the pattern (instep differentiated by either stitching, contrasting leather color, or texture) would be no different in terms of break-in and feel.

Saddle leather is altogether a different thing. Even splitting saddle would make it feel heavy. I've seen it used in boots due to its thickness. Saying that, I believe I have a pair of boots made from it. While soft, it is a hearty leather.

In terms of the Alden, @clee1982 just posted this link.

Alden Shoes - NST Saddle Blucher (LSW) - Leather Soul

Alden’s NST (Norwegian Split Toe) blucher is an iconic American shoe. Four skillful ladies at the Alden Shoe Company factory meticulously hand sew every NST that makes it to store shelves all around the world. It’s a little detail that … Continue reading →

leathersoul.com

This is a stitch saddle pattern not a saddle leathered shoe.