Some brands and suit shapes?

[alebrady]

i remember a very extensive post i came across by manton that sort of described 'classic' suit shapes (i.e. english, american, neopolitan, and roman) but i dont recall these brands being categorized in the different 'geographic' styles that was covered in that post.

how would you guys describe the sillhoutte of:

-zegna (specifically, the have a narrower cut called something like roma or cardigan)
-corneliani
-burberry

are they all kind of american 'blah'?

tia

 

[Jovan]

Zegna and Corneliani have an Italian cut. I saw in another thread that Burberrys are made by Hickey Freeman and thus have a more American style.

 

[billiebob]

The Ermenegildo Zegna (3-button dual vent flat front) suit I got this Spring from Filenes was in an incredible boring, boxy cut. I swear it had about the same amount of waist suppression as my J-Press suit from 2005. The fabric is superb and the shoulders fit me pretty well. I had the jacket taken in (a lot!), it fits great, and I'm very happy. I don't know if it's a "Roma" model or not. That field on the pocket tag is blank.

The cornelianis for Polo are much more fitted. I seem to remember a Corneliani in Filenes being similar, but there are many models of Corneliani. The one I tried on had heavily padded shoulders. The burberrys made in USA are cut like Hickey-Freeman suits, which aren't sacks, but aren't exactly sleek either.

So to answer your question, I think these three makers produce boxy models for the US market.

 

[alebrady]

i am curious (and obviously a novice) but when people on here describe a suit shape as being 'boxy' is that primarily a reference to the shoulders (i.e. the shoulders being fairly structured and less of a natural slope down the shoulders or even concave) or is it a reference to the overall jacket not being form fitting (i.e. very little supression in the waist)?

thanks - just trying to educate myself a bit

 

[damonallan]

Friend:

I'm pretty sure we're referring to the shape of the jacket fitting around the body. Boxy being a straight up and down look on the sides with little if at all waist suppression.

 

[kitonbrioni]

It has been often discussed on the Forums that Borrelli and Kiton supply Europe with a Napoli cut that is not sold in the USA. Brioni has its classic "Roma" style. There are, of course, many more examples also.