Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Solito Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jun 14, 2011.

  1. srivats

    srivats Senior member

    Messages:
    3,907
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    They look lovely, Manton. I'd love to see full photos of you wearing the the suits sometime.

    Are your Amrbrosi trousers pleated and high waisted?
     


  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Likes Received:
    117
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007


  3. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,598
    Likes Received:
    381
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    They are all very soft, they cling to the neck and shoulders well, I can move freely, and they are sufficiently draped so that I never feel bound and I can place a reasonable number of things in my pockets without feeling them or showing any bulges (no Weiner).

    Thanks. There are some jackets that feel like they want to fall off my back, and the A&S ex-pat ones feel the opposite.

    --Andre
     


  4. kcc

    kcc Senior member

    Messages:
    614
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2006
    Location:
    South Seas
    Manton,

    For business garments, would you have the sleeve heads smoothened or opt for the puckering? Personally, I don't mind the puckering on summer or business suits, but for more formal stuff like dinner coats I'd rather not have it.
     


  5. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

    Messages:
    4,207
    Likes Received:
    2,709
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2008
    Location:
    In Hedonic Decline
    I'm wearing unlined sleeves in this WAYWRN post from yesterday. The jacket is in Minnis 7/8 Fresco, so it's about as "grabby" a fabric as might be for something without a lining.

    I seem to recall someone here having some issues with a light coloured sleeve lining showing through the weave of their fresco coat. Do you find that your lighter shirts are showing through your unlined fresco? And if so, do you mind?
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Do unlined sleeves work well?

    In other words, aside from providing an ease of slipping in and out of the coat, are sleeve linings necessary to give the sleeve some shape?

    Beyond slipping it on and off I haven't worn it yet but I plan to tomorrow.

    Are your Amrbrosi trousers pleated and high waisted?
    They are higher than he would normally make but not SR high. Yes, pleated.

    Manton,

    For business garments, would you have the sleeve heads smoothened or opt for the puckering? Personally, I don't mind the puckering on summer or business suits, but for more formal stuff like dinner coats I'd rather not have it.

    I don't mind the pleating for anything.

    I seem to recall someone here having some issues with a light coloured sleeve lining showing through the weave of their fresco coat. Do you find that your lighter shirts are showing through your unlined fresco? And if so, do you mind?

    This can be a problem and yes it's sort of annoying. Worse than sleeve lining, IMO, is canvas. Dark grays and blues should have a black canvas. White canvas shows through and makes the coats look shimmery.
     


  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    557
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    This can be a problem and yes it's sort of annoying. Worse than sleeve lining, IMO, is canvas. Dark grays and blues should have a black canvas. White canvas shows through and makes the coats look shimmery.

    I noticed this on a SB suit of mine, but not on a DB suit of the same material. Is there extra fabric in the DB between the canvas to make the sheer quality less apparent? For all I know he could have used a black canvas as I had the DB jacket made later.
     


  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,504
    Likes Received:
    8,866
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    I don't mind the pleating for anything.


    Do you get a lapped shoulder seam along with your spalla shoulders? I am thinking of doing spalla on my next suit, but I am thinking that the lapped shoulder seam would take the formality of a suit down a bit and make it more "sporty".
     


  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Do you get a lapped shoulder seam along with your spalla shoulders? I am thinking of doing spalla on my next suit, but I am thinking that the lapped shoulder seam would take the formality of a suit down a bit and make it more "sporty".

    The lapped shoulder seam is much less noticeable than the shirt-set sleevehead. Of course, I'm assuming you mean the true shoulder seam, running between the collar and the shoulder point, and not the armscye.
     


  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,504
    Likes Received:
    8,866
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    Yes, your assumption is correct, the true shoulder seam.
     


  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Yes, your assumption is correct, the true shoulder seam.

    I'd be uttery shocked if more than one out of a hundred people at your office could notice and identify that your shoulder seam is lapped and not open.
     


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Solito laps all the seams on the coat. All the Neapolitan coats that I have examined were made the same way. Ambrosi laps the trouser outseams but not the inseams. Lapped seams appear to be part of the culture there.
     


  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,504
    Likes Received:
    8,866
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    Yeah, I guess you're right.
     


  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Likes Received:
    117
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    My fresco summer suits are quarter lined, with unlined sleeves--could not possibly care less if sometimes under some lighting some of my shirt pattern might show through.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by