Solito Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jun 14, 2011.

  1. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

    Messages:
    4,900
    Likes Received:
    164
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2004
    Lovely suits, especially #3.
     


  2. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,674
    Likes Received:
    6,129
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    This is unusual. There is the little touch of lining at the shoulder but none in the sleeves:

    [​IMG]



    Great. Never seen this before. Is it enough for "slip-on convenience"?
     


  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Manton's Solito stuff is some of my favorite bespoke on styleforum, but I agree in general that I would prefer that the fashion revert to a lower gorge.
    I like this gorge. I think when worn it does not look quite as high as in the pic. It's lower than my A&S actually, though not lower than my A&S alum guy.

    Manton, I notice that you buy a lot of your own fabrics and do CMT. Is that because the selection from Solito is inferior / smaller, or is it to take advantage of the savings?
    Most of my fabric was bought years ago and has been sat on for years. I went on a binge for a while and accumulated such a "cellar" that I realized I had to stop. I am glad I have it because it is good stuff and, yes, the Solito selection is not the widest. I have used his cloth only once but will again someday, esp. for linen because he has access to great linen. But for Lesser, Minnis and most of the British classics, you have to source your own.


    Manton, can you say a few words about the feel of the Solito garments vs. A&S and maybe Raphael, in terms of what it's like to wear them? The A&S garments seem to have their own unique feel.

    --Andre

    Well, I am not sure I can shed much light. They are all very soft, they cling to the neck and shoulders well, I can move freely, and they are sufficiently draped so that I never feel bound and I can place a reasonable number of things in my pockets without feeling them or showing any bulges (no Weiner). The Solitos feel a little closer to the body and a little lighter. The A&S offshoots are the loosest. Raph is in the middle.
    Manton, do the Solito(e)s speak English? What is the turnaround for a suit with 2 fittings like?

    PS: nice crocs. [​IMG]

    The crocs belong to another member of the household. [​IMG]

    Luigi speaks passable English. Gennaro, the father, does not. I have never had two fittings though if you do the entire process in Naples you can probably get more than one. Turnaround time is, to say the least, lengthy and erratic. I admit to being exasperated more than once. But I love the product so I try to cope.

    Manton, could you talk about the different tailor's approach to drape that you have used? Does it feel or look any different between all of the tailors or are the results pretty much the same to you?
    The most obvious difference is between Solito and MA&SEBTâ„¢. The latter cuts a silhouette that is quite "rounded" in appearance. I don't know how to describe this but think of like how they teach people to draw. Instead of starting with a fully formed human figure they encourage you to use ovals to represent the major areas of the body to get the proportions right. The A&S coats are kind of like two of those ovals, a big one for the chest and shoulders, a narrower one for the hips, with a fairly hourglassy indentation separating them.

    The Solito jacket looks more columnar, the shoulders are less rounded on the top, the waist is "longer" and less pronounced, and the hip is trimmer.

    They have a different approach to drape, too, which I am finding very hard to put into words. The basic elements are there; you can grab a handfull of excess cloth on either side of the chest near the skye, but there is a more obvious break or fold on the A&S stuff. Solito manages to puff the chest out a bit so that the excess doesn't break but makes a convex curve.
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Great. Never seen this before. Is it enough for "slip-on convenience"?

    I haven't worn it yet but trying it on, it slipped on and off just fine.
     


  5. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,674
    Likes Received:
    6,129
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    I haven't worn it yet but trying it on, it slipped on and off just fine.

    Sounds like it works then. [​IMG] Your idea or your tailor's?
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Sounds like it works then. [​IMG] Your idea or your tailor's?

    His. I didn't even notice it when I first tried it on. I only noticed it when I put it on over a short sleeve shirt to take that pic. My arms felt the linen and I thought "hey, that's strange."
     


  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Likes Received:
    117
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Manton, who is making the pants for the suits, someone in Solito's shop or someone else?


    - B


    Salvatore made them all, and he already delivered.
     


  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,498
    Likes Received:
    8,861
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    The most obvious difference is between Solito and MA&SEBTâ„¢. The latter cuts a silhouette that is quite "rounded" in appearance. I don't know how to describe this but think of like how they teach people to draw. Instead of starting with a fully formed human figure they encourage you to use ovals to represent the major areas of the body to get the proportions right. The A&S coats are kind of like two of those ovals, a big one for the chest and shoulders, a narrower one for the hips, with a fairly hourglassy indentation separating them.

    The Solito jacket looks more columnar, the shoulders are less rounded on the top, the waist is "longer" and less pronounced, and the hip is trimmer.

    They have a different approach to drape, too, which I am finding very hard to put into words. The basic elements are there; you can grab a handfull of excess cloth on either side of the chest near the skye, but there is a more obvious break or fold on the A&S stuff. Solito manages to puff the chest out a bit so that the excess doesn't break but makes a convex curve.


    This makes perfect sense. It can be seen in pictures pretty well between your Solito and A&S SC, also Vox's Steed silhouettes.
     


  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Likes Received:
    117
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007


  11. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    There's a new Aesop in there somewhere, with new characters for the tortoise and the hare.

    But I could be wrong.


    - B


    It was a long process, but with a happy ending (again, no Weiner).
     


  12. wmb

    wmb Senior member

    Messages:
    452
    Likes Received:
    12
    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2008
    these look very nice
     


  13. banis

    banis Senior member

    Messages:
    826
    Likes Received:
    165
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2009
    Location:
    Moscow, Russia
    His. I didn't even notice it when I first tried it on. I only noticed it when I put it on over a short sleeve shirt to take that pic. My arms felt the linen and I thought "hey, that's strange."

    It is quite popular to make linen coats almost fully unlined (except for the shoulders). I've seen it on many jackets at three tailors in Naples. IIRC, maomao posted last year a linen jacket from Panico that was also fully unlined.
     


  14. gomestar

    gomestar Super Yelper

    Messages:
    19,407
    Likes Received:
    3,873
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2008
    Location:
    NYC
    still waiting for my jacket undergoing and adjustment to be returned [​IMG]
     


  15. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

    Messages:
    813
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Location:
    New York City
    Question:

    Do unlined sleeves work well?

    In other words, aside from providing an ease of slipping in and out of the coat, are sleeve linings necessary to give the sleeve some shape?

    Have any of you had unlined sleeves?
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by