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Solito Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jun 14, 2011.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I can make it closer but it will really fill the screen. [​IMG]
    I had an OTR suit like this not too long ago. It photographs oddly in front of camera flashes. Ends up looking like sharkskin
     
  2. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    great stuff Manton, I have a similar woodhouse made up as pants, but mine is a wool/cashmere blend, just need to get Mina to make me the jacket:

    [​IMG]
     
  3. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Manton, can you say a few words about the feel of the Solito garments vs. A&S and maybe Raphael, in terms of what it's like to wear them? The A&S garments seem to have their own unique feel.

    --Andre
     
  4. tobiasj

    tobiasj Senior member

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    Someone needs to write a post about how to take and upload good cloathes porn pics, and then get it stickied. It would make SF a better place.
     
  5. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    sage
    aah
    they arrived
    just in time
     
  6. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice stuff, Manton. I really like the higher lapel roll on these. Makes for a more voluptuous curve down the front of the jacket. Solito is doing a great job.

    I find that ghost pocket stitch kinda cool. Great horseshoe shape.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ive been looking for something like this for a while, guessing its discontinued?

    Yeah, long ago. Though I know a guy who has a piece he hasn't made, if you want it I might be able to persuade him to sell it.

    Lesser has a very similar pattern in the 9.5/10 book but it's not fresco.
     
  8. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Very nice. Manton, do the Solito(e)s speak English? What is the turnaround for a suit with 2 fittings like? PS: nice crocs. [​IMG]
     
  9. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, long ago. Though I know a guy who has a piece he hasn't made, if you want it I might be able to persuade him to sell it.

    Lesser has a very similar pattern in the 9.5/10 book but it's not fresco.


    Yes I know - I would much prefer it in a fresco. Let me think about it.
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is a wonderful thread to view first thing this morning. Especially since I am picking up a completed suit this afternoon.

    Manton, could you talk about the different tailor's approach to drape that you have used? Does it feel or look any different between all of the tailors or are the results pretty much the same to you?
     
  11. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    Lovely suits, especially #3.
     
  12. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    This is unusual. There is the little touch of lining at the shoulder but none in the sleeves:

    [​IMG]



    Great. Never seen this before. Is it enough for "slip-on convenience"?
     
  13. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Manton's Solito stuff is some of my favorite bespoke on styleforum, but I agree in general that I would prefer that the fashion revert to a lower gorge.
    I like this gorge. I think when worn it does not look quite as high as in the pic. It's lower than my A&S actually, though not lower than my A&S alum guy.

    Manton, I notice that you buy a lot of your own fabrics and do CMT. Is that because the selection from Solito is inferior / smaller, or is it to take advantage of the savings?
    Most of my fabric was bought years ago and has been sat on for years. I went on a binge for a while and accumulated such a "cellar" that I realized I had to stop. I am glad I have it because it is good stuff and, yes, the Solito selection is not the widest. I have used his cloth only once but will again someday, esp. for linen because he has access to great linen. But for Lesser, Minnis and most of the British classics, you have to source your own.


    Manton, can you say a few words about the feel of the Solito garments vs. A&S and maybe Raphael, in terms of what it's like to wear them? The A&S garments seem to have their own unique feel.

    --Andre

    Well, I am not sure I can shed much light. They are all very soft, they cling to the neck and shoulders well, I can move freely, and they are sufficiently draped so that I never feel bound and I can place a reasonable number of things in my pockets without feeling them or showing any bulges (no Weiner). The Solitos feel a little closer to the body and a little lighter. The A&S offshoots are the loosest. Raph is in the middle.
    Manton, do the Solito(e)s speak English? What is the turnaround for a suit with 2 fittings like?

    PS: nice crocs. [​IMG]

    The crocs belong to another member of the household. [​IMG]

    Luigi speaks passable English. Gennaro, the father, does not. I have never had two fittings though if you do the entire process in Naples you can probably get more than one. Turnaround time is, to say the least, lengthy and erratic. I admit to being exasperated more than once. But I love the product so I try to cope.

    Manton, could you talk about the different tailor's approach to drape that you have used? Does it feel or look any different between all of the tailors or are the results pretty much the same to you?
    The most obvious difference is between Solito and MA&SEBTâ„¢. The latter cuts a silhouette that is quite "rounded" in appearance. I don't know how to describe this but think of like how they teach people to draw. Instead of starting with a fully formed human figure they encourage you to use ovals to represent the major areas of the body to get the proportions right. The A&S coats are kind of like two of those ovals, a big one for the chest and shoulders, a narrower one for the hips, with a fairly hourglassy indentation separating them.

    The Solito jacket looks more columnar, the shoulders are less rounded on the top, the waist is "longer" and less pronounced, and the hip is trimmer.

    They have a different approach to drape, too, which I am finding very hard to put into words. The basic elements are there; you can grab a handfull of excess cloth on either side of the chest near the skye, but there is a more obvious break or fold on the A&S stuff. Solito manages to puff the chest out a bit so that the excess doesn't break but makes a convex curve.
     
  14. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Great. Never seen this before. Is it enough for "slip-on convenience"?

    I haven't worn it yet but trying it on, it slipped on and off just fine.
     
  15. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    I haven't worn it yet but trying it on, it slipped on and off just fine.

    Sounds like it works then. [​IMG] Your idea or your tailor's?
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sounds like it works then. [​IMG] Your idea or your tailor's?

    His. I didn't even notice it when I first tried it on. I only noticed it when I put it on over a short sleeve shirt to take that pic. My arms felt the linen and I thought "hey, that's strange."
     
  17. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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  18. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Manton, who is making the pants for the suits, someone in Solito's shop or someone else?


    - B


    Salvatore made them all, and he already delivered.
     
  19. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The most obvious difference is between Solito and MA&SEBTâ„¢. The latter cuts a silhouette that is quite "rounded" in appearance. I don't know how to describe this but think of like how they teach people to draw. Instead of starting with a fully formed human figure they encourage you to use ovals to represent the major areas of the body to get the proportions right. The A&S coats are kind of like two of those ovals, a big one for the chest and shoulders, a narrower one for the hips, with a fairly hourglassy indentation separating them.

    The Solito jacket looks more columnar, the shoulders are less rounded on the top, the waist is "longer" and less pronounced, and the hip is trimmer.

    They have a different approach to drape, too, which I am finding very hard to put into words. The basic elements are there; you can grab a handfull of excess cloth on either side of the chest near the skye, but there is a more obvious break or fold on the A&S stuff. Solito manages to puff the chest out a bit so that the excess doesn't break but makes a convex curve.


    This makes perfect sense. It can be seen in pictures pretty well between your Solito and A&S SC, also Vox's Steed silhouettes.
     
  20. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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