Short vs Too Short: New pictures (p3) -- critique welcome!

[laxnate]

The difference to me between the pics you posted of others and your Yoox pic is that in the other shots the jackets still look elongated whereas (probably because of the three button and/or your body type) the shorter jacket on you just looks square and blocky...

 

[constant struggle]

HEre is a good related post
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=71584

 

[bonjob]

I like the first two.

I think that jacket looks perfect to me.

I really admire the styles.

 

[yfyf]

I don't mean to thread jack, but the short vs too short question has been close to my heart for some time. I've run the complete spectrum from seat half showing to an inch below seat. Since I've been mentioned a few times in this thread, I'm going to show some pictures below to help illustrate.

Firstly, I believe strongly in the half-half rule. The jacket should appear to be as long as the legs showing and that is the advice I give anyone who asks me. If you are going to wear shorter jackets, you should try and wear no break trousers and perhaps add a cuff to the bottom. I find that higher rise is preferably in almost all situations with a jacket.

Anyway, I'll let everyone judge for themselves, I've added a few annotations as well. Please note that my arms are particularly long, which will affect perceptions.

SHORT

Lad Musician short, seat barely covered, medium rise trousers.

Thom Browne, seat half covered, high rise trousers.

My own take on Thom Browne, seat half covered, high rise with pleated trouser. Jacket is considerably roomier and shoulders are wider than even my normal suits. Gives a very strong V shape from top to bottom.

MEDIUM

Just covering the seat, high rise trousers

Just covering the seat, high rise trousers

Just covering the seat, high rise pleated trousers, slightly shorter trouser than usual

LONG (my current preference)

Inch past the seat, low rise trousers

Inch past the seat, high rise trousers

Inch past the seat, high rise trousers

Inch past the seat, high rise trousers

My current flavour of the week is longer jacket, slightly roomier with high rise slim trousers. I find it looks better in two button than three button. I'm still not too familiar with three button so I won't comment on the ideal three button length.

 

[voxsartoria]

Love that DB on you, YoYo.


- B

 

[yfyf]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Love that DB on you, YoYo.


- B

Thanks boss, I <3 it too but I've been passing through places like Singapore and Malaysia recently which isn't really conducive to flannel

 

[GuidoWongolini]

Originally Posted by yfyf

..
- great DB & even GREATER o/coat

Originally Posted by yfyf

Thanks boss, I <3 it too but I've been passing through places like Singapore and Malaysia recently which isn't really conducive to flannel

- know the feeling
- let's do linen next time you are in HKG..

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by yfyf

Thanks boss, I <3 it too but I've been passing through places like Singapore and Malaysia recently which isn't really conducive to flannel

The other stuff is nice, too, of course, but the DB just hit me right tonite.

A lot of otherwise well dressed guys are afraid of a higher rise in their trousers because of current fashion, but in a suit or jacket context, nearly all of them would be better served with a higher rise.

- B

 

[Philip1978]

Originally Posted by literasyme

And here, for comparison's sake, is a shot of the (right out of the Yoox box & hence very wrinkled) jacket I'm uncertain about (please ignore the sleeves -- they can and will be let out):

So, share some collective wisdom. All too short? All just as short or long as they ought to be, since it's a matter of personal preference? Do any of them look Thom Brownish to you, and if so, why?

I think it's a bit too short.

 

[Lel]

Originally Posted by bigbris1

If your bum is hanging out under the back of the coat, you're a chick.

Actually this is false, you happen you be a chick if you posses a ******.

I'm surprised that jacket length gets so much attention here because it seems that within the grand scheme of fit, there are bigger issues I see a lot (both on SF and in general).

Jacket length by itself cannot be measured so easily because it depends on one's proportions, the width of the lapels, the overall slimness of the jacket, the pants, etc.

People seem to fuss about the shortness of the jacket when there are other issues of fit more clearly present.

 

[TowleY]

I think its border line to being too short. Could be a little bit longer. And you did a bad job an censoring your pictures lol.

 

[sloane3]

Originally Posted by literasyme

So, share some collective wisdom. All too short? All just as short or long as they ought to be, since it's a matter of personal preference? Do any of them look Thom Brownish to you, and if so, why?

2, maybe 3 there that aren't too short. Yours isn't one of them. Looks like you're wearing your little brother's jacket. Highwater 2" cuffed pants make you look like an SF victim. Reconsider.

 

[taktikz]

The second suit is the nicest...

 

[literasyme]

Thanks everyone for the input and feedback. yfyf: What can I say.

Of all the posters around here, perhaps with the exception of iamatt and Get Smart, you clearly have the most consistent vision of your own style, across length preferences and seasons. I like most of your shorter cuts, and of the longer versions, I'm a bit lukewarm only about the light grey one. Also interesting to hear how short many of your jackets are in the back -- I wouldn't have guessed that from the frontal view. The Sartorio I posted fully covers my seat, if only just. I'd say it's maybe just a fraction shorter than this amazing coat maomao features today in WAYWRN (again, ignore horrid wrinkles on the right):

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

I think possibly you have slightly longer legs than average? This may be why the jacket looks a little short. The trousers are also too tight, which isn't helping. Normally the bottom of the jacket might be roughly in-line with the crotch of the trousers, but the crotch of your trousers is higher than it should be because of the tightness...(or maybe it isn't, but it looks that way)
My legs are disproportionately long, yes. But the trousers aren't too tight -- their cotton, and wrinkled from sitting all day long, but aren't constricting anywhere, neither around the thigh nor in the crotch...

Originally Posted by maomao1980

Keep in mind shoulder width, waist suppression, and sleeve length play a big part in how short a jacket "looks"

Originally Posted by laxnate

The difference to me between the pics you posted of others and your Yoox pic is that in the other shots the jackets still look elongated whereas (probably because of the three button and/or your body type) the shorter jacket on you just looks square and blocky...
I think that's spot-on. On most of the jackets I posted, the relative shortness of the body is balanced out by a relatively elongated silhouette. The Sartorio isn't the most fitted jacket I own, but the shoulders are very lightly padded (and my own aren't that square or broad), so I'm a little puzzled as to where the boxiness is coming from. I took some more pictures yesterday where that effect is nowhere near as pronounced, so my useless camera might be partly to blame. Letting the lapels roll down to the second button definitely helps, even though the pick stitching doesn't make it look like a 3-roll-2.

Originally Posted by sloane3

2, maybe 3 there that aren't too short. Yours isn't one of them. Looks like you're wearing your little brother's jacket. Highwater 2" cuffed pants make you look like an SF victim. Reconsider.
This one I don't get. The body may be short, but it isn't tight at all. I also don't see how trousers that don't even fall without a break can be called flood pants. But thanks. In any case, I remain tempted to keep the jacket. I'll try it with a pair of higher-rise trousers on Monday.

 

[literasyme]

Originally Posted by Lel

I'm surprised that jacket length gets so much attention here because it seems that within the grand scheme of fit, there are bigger issues I see a lot (both on SF and in general). ... People seem to fuss about the shortness of the jacket when there are other issues of fit more clearly present.
Lel -- what other fit issues would you consider more pressing, either on my wrinkled mess or the other examples posted?