Shirt collar stitching

[MikeF]

I'm having a bunch of custom shirts made by Jantzen Tailor and have a question respecting shirt construction: why are most shirt collars stitched 1/4" from the edge, rather than at the edge itself? Â The disadvantage of the former is that it prevents a collar stay from reaching the end of the shirt (which, in my experience, results in bent collar corners). Â Is it a question of strength? Incidentally, I received by Jantzen Tailor shirt on Friday and am very pleased with it, especially considering the price. Â I have only two complaints: (1) the absence of gauntlet buttons, which I assume can be remedied; and (2) the absence of a split yoke, which, although useless without appropriate measurements, looks nice.

 

[Mike C.]

There is an option in the Jantzentailor order form to make all your shirts with edge stitching; that solves your problem if you don't like them that way. I prefer my shirts with the 1/4 edge stitching, primarily for fashion purposes.

I've never run into the problem where the 1/4" piece of fabric flips up. Also that part of the shirt seems to be thicker and more durable as to prevent this, while not needing a collar stay.

On the Jantzen shirt you received: What type of fabric did you chose? How do you find the fabric?

 

[MikeF]

It's not that the 1/4" bit of fabric flips up -- more often, it sort of bends down. I don't really care about the flipping -- I just happen to prefer the look of the edge stitching (just as, oddly, I prefer not to have a front placket).

I don't recall specifically what fabric it was, but it's a very small 110s or 120s blue check on white. (Don't ask me if the pattern is matched at the seams, as it's too small.) It is certainly not as thick a fabric as it could be but also not so thin that I'm concerned. Once I put the shirt through a couple of washings and check out the shrinkage, I'll order at least 10 more.

 

[bengal-stripe]

That ¼" (bit less actually, about 4 mm) distance from the edge is determined by the design of sewing machines and the width of the presser foot in particular. Line the edge of the fabric up with the edge of the presser foot and you have a stitching line some 4 mm away from the edge. This method has the advantage that tiny inaccuracies in the stitching will be less visible as if the stitching was closer to the edge.

Of course you can have your shirt collars edge stitched, double stitched or not topstitched at all but the classic remains the single row of topstitching away from the edge.