I'm having a bunch of custom shirts made by Jantzen Tailor and have a question respecting shirt construction: why are most shirt collars stitched 1/4" from the edge, rather than at the edge itself? Â The disadvantage of the former is that it prevents a collar stay from reaching the end of the shirt (which, in my experience, results in bent collar corners). Â Is it a question of strength? Incidentally, I received by Jantzen Tailor shirt on Friday and am very pleased with it, especially considering the price. Â I have only two complaints: (1) the absence of gauntlet buttons, which I assume can be remedied; and (2) the absence of a split yoke, which, although useless without appropriate measurements, looks nice.