S.E.H Kelly

[RozenKristal]

Apologies, unfortunately I meant the US east coast.

I haven't tried much but for the duffle, I definitely needed layering when walking Chicago street in Feb. If you live somewhere around MD,PA, and below, duffle can handle it easily. Further north, layering is still king. Idk about other coats but I have the balmacaan, the peacoat, and duffle, I would say the balmacaan is the warmest, then peacoat, last is duffle. Probably because the duffle I wear it a tad oversize so it isn't as much chill-proof.

I live in VA just fyi.

 

[l1mab3an]

I haven't tried much but for the duffle, I definitely needed layering when walking Chicago street in Feb. If you live somewhere around MD,PA and below, duffle can handle it easily. Further north, layering still king. Idk about other coats but I have the balmacaan, the peacoat, and duffle, I would say the balmacaan is the warmest, then peacoat, last is duffle. Probably because the duffle I wear it a tad oversize so it isn't as much chill-proof.

I live in VA just fyi.

Incredibly helpful. I’m in PA.

 

[sehkelly]

Which of the coats are best suited for east coast winters? I love all your outwear but am looking to prioritize warmth.

I think the ultimate in warmth would be the ... hmmm, the balmacaan, probably.

It's certainly the heaviest, and the cloth is very thick and is double-layered (plus) in quite a lot of places. Plus it has a large collar that easily holds itself up.

Second would be the duffle coat.

But the balmacaan plus one fo the ten-ply crewnecks would put you firmy into Michelin Man territory and would keep out the cold on most east coasts, I should wager.

 

[l1mab3an]

I think the ultimate in warmth would be the ... hmmm, the balmacaan, probably.

It's certainly the heaviest, and the cloth is very thick and is double-layered (plus) in quite a lot of places. Plus it has a large collar that easily holds itself up.

Second would be the duffle coat.

But the balmacaan plus one fo the ten-ply crewnecks would put you firmy into Michelin Man territory and would keep out the cold on most east coasts, I should wager.

Appreciate the confirmation- now to wait for potential restocks in Medium .

 

[zenosparadox]

I hope I'm not at all out of order in posting this here--and please do let me know if so, Paul--but I wanted to do a quick interest check on the most recent version of the tielocken in woollen cord in malt. Size Large. Details can be found here. All sold out for a long while now, and every bit as good as it looks. I just have too many long, full coats (they're my addiction) but never seem to actually wear them enough to justify the quantity. This coat, for instance, has never been worn (apart from trying on, of course). I'd be looking to sell at or near cost, as I'm just as happy to keep this one and sell a couple of my other coats in its place. I just need the closet space to hang these properly and thought this one might garner a bit of interest.

I also have a grey wool shirt jacket that I'll probably be looking to sell in size XL. This one has been worn a handful of times, but is still in excellent condition. Because it has been worn, however, I'll certainly sell at under retail. Let me know if anyone's interested.

 

[aseo45]

Appreciate the confirmation- now to wait for potential restocks in Medium .

I can add that this year’s balmacaan is one of the most substantial ready to wear, all wool coats I’ve ever handled (up there with the Kaptain Sunshine Traveler Coat). I have both last year’s and this year’s version, and the current year’s fabric feels significantly warmer (thicker and softer). I also think the weight and thickness of the fabric helps the drape, and has smoothed out some minor fit issues I had with last year’s model.

I’ll also note that the texture of the current year’s fabric is amazing and difficult to capture. The barleycorn (versus last year’s box) weave gives more of a blue-ish grey impression than grey-ish blue, and the flecks of brown and ivory really pop out.

 

[Kal Varnsen]

I hope I'm not at all out of order in posting this here--and please do let me know if so, Paul

He didn't start the thread himself, so it should be fair game. The only issue is it might be against the rules to post an item you're selling in a non buy & sale thread.

 

[sehkelly]

Hey hey -- the only thing I am against is the promotion of articles of clothing better than those on my own website.

The tielocken in malt is a recent favourite of mine. We're as proud of that as any coat in memory.

And the overshirt is a blast from the past. The cloth is a very loose, very soft weave, if I remember rightly, such that it's almost like wearing structured knitwear.

 

[sehkelly]

I can add that this year’s balmacaan is one of the most substantial ready to wear, all wool coats I’ve ever handled (up there with the Kaptain Sunshine Traveler Coat). I have both last year’s and this year’s version, and the current year’s fabric feels significantly warmer (thicker and softer). I also think the weight and thickness of the fabric helps the drape, and has smoothed out some minor fit issues I had with last year’s model.

I’ll also note that the texture of the current year’s fabric is amazing and difficult to capture. The barleycorn (versus last year’s box) weave gives more of a blue-ish grey impression than grey-ish blue, and the flecks of brown and ivory really pop out.

We've had mixed feedback about the cloth this year.

The majority of people really like it (or don't tell me anything, which I generally take as positive, too) ... though one or two folks decided the barleycorn just wasn't for them and sat this one out.

I don't know if maybe barleycorns are less familiar compared to e.g. herringbones ... or whether it's just too earthy or chunky a look.

Since we tend to use solely plain-weave cloth and a large number of hopsacks, I like having the barleycorn as the ultimately chunky expression of that, and am of a mind to use it again for the balmacaan next year.

 

[mattw]

FWIW the barleycorn was perfect for what I had drawn up in my head, which is why I finally jumped on a winter coat after watching from afar for a few years.

I look forward to testing it against the recent cold this weekend. It's heavy, but I still think will need attention to layering to do a Chicago winter. And I tend to scoff at parkas and people who flip out over the cold FWIW.

 

[RozenKristal]

I myself don't like the herringbones pattern much. I guess with you trying out different things, we all get to take our turns. The weight of the fabric really helps smooth out the drape and addressed some concerns that I have with previous iterations.

 

[aseo45]

We've had mixed feedback about the cloth this year.

The majority of people really like it (or don't tell me anything, which I generally take as positive, too) ... though one or two folks decided the barleycorn just wasn't for them and sat this one out.

I don't know if maybe barleycorns are less familiar compared to e.g. herringbones ... or whether it's just too earthy or chunky a look.

Since we tend to use solely plain-weave cloth and a large number of hopsacks, I like having the barleycorn as the ultimately chunky expression of that, and am of a mind to use it again for the balmacaan next year.

I would commit to a grey/black/charcoal version in barleycorn in similar weight right now ?

 

[sehkelly]

I would commit to a grey/black/charcoal version in barleycorn in similar weight right now ?

This is very much not out of the question! I will make a note now to get in touch if or when such a thing transpires.

 

[sehkelly]

Speaking of things which are woolly and grey ...

We've just put the first of the new balaclavas (balaclavae) online.

There's a dark navy one to come next week, all being well.

Watch caps, too -- thicker and potentially loftier than ever!

I think the increase in the number of colours within the knits has paid dividends: there's a bit more depth, a bit more "going on", as it were.

Paul

 

[sehkelly]

Gansey!

The gansey is back!

We have some in dark navy coming along in a few days, too.

It's the same as last year, but as with most of the other new knitwear, there is more colour depth / shade variation within the knit, which makes it more interesting to my eyes.

In my excitement, I forgot to photograph my favourite part of it, which is how the hind sleeve seam is joined onto the rear yoke seam.