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10dence

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Funnily enough, especially the trench — or rather, *a* trench; trenches in general — I classify as being good on almost everyone.

Certainly the one-piece raglan sleeve is entirely physique-agnostic!
Too far removed from my personal style I suppose? It would look out of place here.
Although for every tracksuit and pair of joggers I see, that is becoming more and more something to strive for.

By the way, have you decided on colours for the gansey and other knits yet?
 

sehkelly

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Too far removed from my personal style I suppose? It would look out of place here.
Although for every tracksuit and pair of joggers I see, that is becoming more and more something to strive for.

By the way, have you decided on colours for the gansey and other knits yet?
Not yet!

One of them will for sure be a nice mottled navy, and one of them a mottled grey, and ... well, we're quite predictable, and narrow with our palette, so it won't be too tricky to guess.

I'm hopeful a good green will be in the mix, too (perhaps with one of those two styles) but we'll see.

Likewise a brighter mustard or umber-y colour, but none of the knitting yarn I have seen has any shades quite right.

One thing we are likely to do is have three colours of yarn per knit, rather than the two of recent years. We used to have four colours of yarn per knit — e.g. like https://www.sehkelly.com/words/2013/11/tuck-stitch-pt-2/ — and hopefully, with three, we can up the visual interest a little, while keeping a look consistent with recent years.
 

shunese

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In the next month, all being well ...

We'll have made a good bunch of new shirts. There's some moleskin, some corduroy, some super-fine merino (my favourite) and some thick white oxford-like cotton (the cotton spun in England, which doesn't happen every day, and in fact hasn't really happened at all for at least a half-century).

We've tweaked the shirt a little, and have introduced some new collars. We are trying out the collars now, and so long as they work out as planned, we'll have at least two new ones on the site before September. (And if they don't work out, it's granddads all the way!)

Perhaps the field shirt in tweed.

Also perhaps, hopefully, the duffle coat and / or peacoat.

It's all a little up in the air, as half of the mills and factories with whom we work are on full or partial holiday this month. Plus the pandemic.

Will there be corduroy be in this form? Or will this product come back in a different color?
 
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sehkelly

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Will there be corduroy be in this form? Or will this product come back in a different color?
That version of the work jacket is unlikely ever to return, I am sorry to say.

What we have left in stock — I think just a few size S in the blue and navy — is all there will ever be.

We will be releasing a new version of the flight jacket next year, which will have a similar sort of collar (as well as an optional attachable collar, and with a little pocket to store said collar if you wish to wear the jacket with just the collar stand). It won't be corduroy, though — at least, not for the foreseeable.
 

NO MERCY

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Will there be corduroy be in this form? Or will this product come back in a different color?
The collared version of the work jacket is currently on the site in black, green, and navy corduroys. I have the black version and if asked, would have nothing but praise to heap upon it.

new version of the flight jacket ... will have a similar sort of collar ... optional attachable collar
I'm curious what the thinking is here. The collar on my flight jacket (I've got the navy melton and canvas iteration) is without a doubt one of the best cut collars I've ever come across. Is the collar something that doesn't translate well into other fabrics? Or is it a Spring vs Fall version sort of thing? Or are you just trying to keep things interesting for yourself and the rest of us?
 

sehkelly

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I'm curious what the thinking is here. The collar on my flight jacket (I've got the navy melton and canvas iteration) is without a doubt one of the best cut collars I've ever come across. Is the collar something that doesn't translate well into other fabrics? Or is it a Spring vs Fall version sort of thing? Or are you just trying to keep things interesting for yourself and the rest of us?
It's a very concerted effort to have our cake and eat it!

The collar on the flight jacket you have is a favourite of mine (and yours, by the sound of it, which is great).

The collar-stand version of the flight jacket, meanwhile, is also pretty good. It suits the style quite nicely.

I couldn't decide, going forward, which to put our efforts behind — so why not both? So now, the collar is fully detachable (and exactly the same cut as the original) and so can be removed for those who prefer the simpler, more blouson / Harrington style of the jacket with just the collar-stand.

There'll even be a purpose-built pocket for the collar when it isn't in use.

I'll post a few photos before too long.
 

Thibault S

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It's a very concerted effort to have our cake and eat it!

The collar on the flight jacket you have is a favourite of mine (and yours, by the sound of it, which is great).

The collar-stand version of the flight jacket, meanwhile, is also pretty good. It suits the style quite nicely.

I couldn't decide, going forward, which to put our efforts behind — so why not both? So now, the collar is fully detachable (and exactly the same cut as the original) and so can be removed for those who prefer the simpler, more blouson / Harrington style of the jacket with just the collar-stand.

There'll even be a purpose-built pocket for the collar when it isn't in use.

I'll post a few photos before too long.
Very interesting to read. Would the fabric be the same melton/canvas duo?
 

sehkelly

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This isn't the flight jacket, discussed last week, but development slightly more immediate. It's the revised version of the Chesterfield, which will hopefully appear on the website in finished form before the end of next month.

We've made the coat more formal, I guess, with some of the seams going in slightly different directions. There's a new chest pocket, too, and the gorge has been lowered (which I like, but which seems to go against the grain of the modern world). The break is very low now, too, and I wonder if it is too low to hold itself together in thicker cloth. Might need to look at that ...

ches-3@2x.jpg
ches-2@2x.jpg
ches-3-wide@2x.jpg


The cloth from which this prototype is made is in fact the same as the production cloth. We're making it in this colour, and also in a very, very dark blue ("midnight"). It's heavy: heavier than it looks in photographs, I think, and in person. It's only really the up-close photo above that suggests its thickness -- although that's only half the story: it's also just incredibly dense.
 
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sehkelly

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Here's the work-in-progress flight jacket, with its detachable collar idea.

I actually like the look of the collar by itself, but I can't see it catching on.

flight-toile-11@2x.jpg
flight-toile-22@2x.jpg


It will button on the inside of the collar stand, and for all intents and purposes to the outside world look seamlessly connected to the jacket. Or it can just be worn without the collar (and with the collar folded away into an internal pocket).

Of course, one man's "best of both worlds" is another's "falls between two stools" (or best of both stools / falls between two worlds) but it's proving a fun design challenge, either way.

And yes — the mannequin does need a reskin.
 

ojaw

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"And yes — the mannequin does need a reskin."

A little wabi sabi never hurt a body - unless that was wasabi, in which case it might be eating it from the inside out.

Collar looks great, and the removability is interesting to me, especially since I have had collars removed from some shirts.
 

freehand

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Will there be corduroy be in this form? Or will this product come back in a different color?
I hope it’s not bad form to post this here but I was planning to list for sale my reversible corduroy/ Melton wool “over shirt” (in quotes as in reality it’s one of my thicker jackets!). It’s a small and may be up your street. It was bought through this thread a year or two ago!
6554127C-BC86-4949-8B59-7F027FB1BB34.jpeg
0D4663C1-7D1D-4525-8C41-0AD1B62AD28D.jpeg
 

sehkelly

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"And yes — the mannequin does need a reskin."

A little wabi sabi never hurt a body - unless that was wasabi, in which case it might be eating it from the inside out.
It's steam. He's found himself steamed and pressed too many times, poor chap.

He actually has a purpose-built zip-up vest to protect him from the steam, but no one ever remembers to put it on.
 

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