Renamed: Labels that should get more love SS09 - First up: Nice Collective, Krane

[LA Guy]

I was talking to a few people, and we couldn't figure out why Nice Collective doesn't get more love around here. So I thought that I would give it a whirl. I think that Nice Collective has some of the most consistent collections in the mens' contemporary world (though for a little while, some of the graphics were a little off). They call it different things, but inevitably, the theme for every collection seems to be gypsy wearing beat up military gear - which suits me fine.

I picked up my first SS09 piece very recently, and it was a Nice Collective hoodie which, imo, has just enough extra detail to make it interesting without being overdesigned. The usual raw hem and cuffs are there, as are the washed material and interesting construction:



The black version is also nice, though I think that the olive is a little more visually interesting:



Blake in Portland gets a massive amount of Nice Collective (including the women's collection), and Farinelli's, Brigade, Detour, Secret Service, and Hejfina also get a good selection. The collection is really large, so you always see a fair bit of difference in the edits, though there are always standout pieces.

 

[AR_Six]

I am really into nico the last little while. The more militaristic the better.

 

[constant struggle]

The reason I have not really caught on to NC is I feel the price is slightly out of the range it should be in (maybe 25% too high for every piece), that alone throws it off for me. I am always like I could spend x amount of money on this NC piece, or get this other piece from xyz brand for the same amount of money, and feel like I am getting more 'bang for the buck'. I am also not too much into raw hems/etc


Those hoodies do look cool though.

 

[LA Guy]

I decided to change the thread title, so I did. Just because I wanted to bring some attention to some of my favorite labels that never get love here. Now, these waxed cotton jackets from Toronto based Krane were from FW08, but they are just too ******* cool, and the versions for FW09 that were shown at Capsule were just as nice, with the prices down a little (FW jackets retailed at $800-$1100), and the cuts a tweaked to fit better (imo) than then did for FW08. Some of the details are not there anymore (for example, the really painstaking weaving of the elastic was reserved for special details rather than put all along the hem and cuffs. Anyway, I got my Emory from Context, and it shares equal billing with my WWM Maine jacket.

All zippers are riri, the jacket is lined with a vintage Italian military blanket, and all the work is done in Toronto.

Oh, and Ken Chow, the designer is a really nice guy.



The new Cyril aviator is going to be in my closet next winter.

 

[whodini]

Originally Posted by constant struggle

The reason I have not really caught on to NC is I feel the price is slightly out of the range it should be in (maybe 25% too high for every piece), that alone throws it off for me. I am always like I could spend x amount of money on this NC piece, or get this other piece from xyz brand for the same amount of money, and feel like I am getting more 'bang for the buck'. I am also not too much into raw hems/etc


Those hoodies do look cool though.
You hit two points I was going to mention about NC.

First, yeah, I've thought the same thing about NC. The prices always seem a bit higher than what looks to be comparable in style although the 20% from Mauro does help quite a bit. However, I'd say it's a total rookie mistake to assume that. After handling NC in person you definitely get a better grasp of the workmanship, fabrics, and overall design. You don't buy NC to get an in-season look and you can't look at it as an "upgraded" replacement for something you bought at H&M. It's definitely more of an investment because it's supposed to last like that.

Secondly, as Mauro will tell you, some people just don't get NC which is good and it's bad. It's "good" because not everyone is going to have the same tastes in clothing but it's a damn shame because I feel like what makes NC "NC" will grow on people given the chance. It's a quality product that is undoubtedly "different" at times. The trick might be to pick up a piece and see how it works into your usual wardrobe rotation. I can almost guarantee you that with the kind of aesthetic most have here that you'll soon catch yourself wanting to add more and more pieces because frankly, they can be worth it.

 

[LA Guy]

Just to give you an indication of what Whodini was talking about. You can't tell from the picture of that hoodie that:

1) The side pockets align with the front side of a tapering side panel
2) The shoulder panel extends into the hood and tapers to a point
3)The hoodie is actually put together like a puzzle, with lots of triangular or trapezoidal pieces.

This is pretty unusual construction. No, the zippers are not riri - just regular YKKs, and the finishing is not that of a Wings+Horns, which is aimed at a similar market, but the pieces are definitely well conceived.

 

[shade449]

I have some NiCo stuff. I agree that it's a little overpriced but since I've never paid retail for it, I like it just fine. I feel that they add a lot of quirky little details and it's really hit or miss. Some of their new stuff is almost goth ninja-ish (which I like) but their fit is boxier than I'd like it to be.

What I want to know is why Geller gets so little mention on here. S/S 09 seemed like something that a lot of SFers would like.

 

[chiral]

I've been a big fan of Nice Collective since I first handled some pieces in my local shop about a year ago. The construction and detailing is just wonderful, and I find that many of their designs work well into very different styles.

I own about 4-5 of their jackets (with a Blitz from FW08 in the mail), and always look forward to finding more. One of my favorite scarves ever was a black and white wool from FW07 that sadly I lost in Santiago. I love how I can wear some of my pieces in a more dark militaristic look, but also incorporate them into workwear fits as I've been doing more recently. The versatility is what sells me, as well as the little details that you can change with many of their garments that really change the look, such as removable hoods and collars, liners, and all the rest.

On Krane, I can't wait to see a piece in person. I'm a sucker for waxed cotton anything, and that bomber looks like a perfect utility jacket for the winter. Definitely on my list.

 

[chiral]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

Just to give you an indication of what Whodini was talking about. You can't tell from the picture of that hoodie that:

1) The side pockets align with the front side of a tapering side panel
2) The shoulder panel extends into the hood and tapers to a point
3)The hoodie is actually put together like a puzzle, with lots of triangular or trapezoidal pieces.

This is pretty unusual construction. No, the zippers are not riri - just regular YKKs, and the finishing is not that of a Wings+Horns, which is aimed at a similar market, but the pieces are definitely well conceived.

I'd also like to make an example of this type of construction, on one of the nico jackets I own. It's a very dark navy made of heavy canvas, with blackened metal fasteners on the front and sleeves. It's reminiscent of a work jacket in many ways.

Some of the details that I've never really seen anywhere else:
1) Gussets on the back by the shoulders, but with elastic banding on the interior to make sure they retain their shape and don't get pulled out with motion. Allows ease of motion like a traditional work jacket, but more structured. The front chest also has elastic on the inside.

2) The front of the jacket is constructed of asymmetrical panels, with a diagonal slash across the right side. Only really noticable when you look closely. The arms are also asymmetrical.

3) Dual side zip vents, almost like a blazer.

4) Removable zip collar, so you can wear it like a regular jacket or go for the banded collar look. Makes the jacket really versatile.

I'm really excited to see the little details of the Blitz jacket when it comes in.

 

[junebugmm]

I've seen some NiCo pieces that I'd love to have in my wardrobe,
but like others have mentioned, the prices are my biggest enemy.
I feel like their pricing is close to the NYC designer stuff as Ervell, Geller,
but maybe their reputation or their following is nowhere near the level
of them. But since this thread is all about labels that deserve more love,
NiCo is definitely on my list.

 

[shade449]

Originally Posted by junebugmm

I've seen some NiCo pieces that I'd love to have in my wardrobe,
but like others have mentioned, the prices are my biggest enemy.
I feel like their pricing is close to the NYC designer stuff as Ervell, Geller,
but maybe their reputation or their following is nowhere near the level
of them. But since this thread is all about labels that deserve more love,
NiCo is definitely on my list.

You might want to check out the affiliates. Secret Service had a lot of NiCo at 60% off in the winter and you can always get it at discount from them and Farinelli. This helps alot; without the discount, I would rather just get something a little higher end.

 

[mainy]

NiCo is def overpriced at retail, but it's pretty widely stocked so I've never really had a problem finding it on sale.

 

[mulansauce]

Krane outwear always looks impressive, but so far it's been outside my budget. Does anyone know who stocks it in the Northeast? Hopefully I'll be able to afford something by the end of this year.

I have never been that impressed with NiCo, but then I have never seen it in person either.

There are a number of European and Japanese brands I read about elsewhere that seem like they might be popular here, but get little or no attention. I started a thread a few days ago about Whereabouts. Some other seemingly decent names that get little mentioned: Won Hundred, Creep, Nicholas K

 

[keykoo]

I think for the most part NiCo stuff is somewhat underwhelming with the exception of some interesting pieces. I mean, look at what you posted as an example Fok. Hoodies. Some of their jackets are interesting but not interesting enough to warrant the price.

 

[mr bunbury]

I've never bought any Nice Collective because the vibe is too casual for the price I'm paying. That's not the fault of the clothes - but given my life, if I'm going to jump in at that price point I want to be able to dress it up. All the Nice Collective stuff I've tried on is versatile in the sense that it can look military, workwear, goth-ninja, etc. - but you can't really look dressy in it (at least where I live).

This isn't true with Ervell, Geller, even Engineered Garments, or with any of the South Willard brands. . . . I guess it really comes down to the way everything is worn, faded, and washed down. I tried on a spring jacket at Odin that wasn't distressed or 'raw' in any way and it was really great.