Reducing Flare in the Hips? (jeans fit question)

[Rye GB]

Originally Posted by Asch

Oh yeah, I should have mentioned measurements earlier... would help for suggesting improved fits:
Waist = 15.75"
Inseam = 32.5"
Hem = 8.25"
Front Rise = 10.8"
Back Rise = 14.5"
Knee = 8.5"? (not sure exactly where to measure)

Measure 15" down from the crotch, then across for knee measurement. The most important measurement to take issue with is the hip measurement. This should be measured across the front of the jean, 8" below the waistband seam. Most Levi repro's in my opinion fit horribly because to much room is allowed in the hips for comfort. Whether worn high or low the problem remains evident.

Looking at the measurements you gave a good hip measurement to look for based upon the 15.75" waist is about 19-20". Leg should taper no more than 1" from knee to
leg opening. A decent thigh measurement of around 20" measuring 1" down from crotch. I'm estimating some of these measurements based on some 31 and 32"s I own, but there close.

This has been mentioned already but to reconfirm try the APC New Standards, Levi 514 and a Dior 19cm, they spec very very close. For me the hip measurements are perfect with a not too low rise.

 

[Asch]

You guys are too generous.

I think you nailed it with the hip measurement, Rye: laid totally flat, my AWs seem to be 21.3" across at the point you specified, substantially larger than your guideline. And at the thigh 1" below crotch, the AWs are 24" (!). So it's looking like the problem is definitely too much space at the hip and upper thigh, with pretty severe tapering toward the knee (which I confirmed at 8.5" across).

 

[Asch]

Hmmm, I just measured the ES Fultons I still have on my hands (trying to sell them, see signature), and their hip and thigh measurements were similar to the AW Cougars, making me think maybe I'm measuring wrong (assuming the Fultons are considered a more "modern" cut with narrower top block). My problem with the Fultons was too low of a rise, even when sagging them pretty low, and a terrible fit in the back.

 

[gdc_2008]

Hmm, maybe its more of an overall size problem as well? When you find a fit for your jeans do you go with ones that feel tight at first or "just right"? I found that I had been buying jeans to fit really comfortably for a long time, and they would always end up stretching out and being way too big for me. Now I buy them with some stretching in mind and that seems to work out much better. It could be that your jeans are just too big to start with.

 

[Asch]

I went to Self Edge and found a fit that seems much better: the Iron Heart 634s in size 30. I did try on a KMW 1980 -- lovely denim, but my size wasn't in stock and the big, low back pockets seemed likely to overwhelm my 5'9" frame anyway. Pics below with shirt pulled up to show full fit. A LOT tighter in the top block and a slightly lower rise -- 10" in front -- as all you experts suggested. Now I have to figure out how much to hem them. Kiya and the SE gang seem to like to stack everything, but I don't think this looks good on me, even with my boots. Any rough guidelines for where to hem a fit like this? I assume I should give them a cold soak before hemming. (In the third pic I'm wearing a Brando Engineer boot that may be responsible, in combination with the excessive length, for the weird lower leg.) A huge thanks again to everyone who has helped me, including Kiya and his SE comrades!

 

[Superb0bo]

i dont think you should hem those. Just give them a small turn up. They will soften aswell and have a more natural fall. Very nice fit!

 

[modual]

I agree with Superbobo those look good and dont hem them, at least until they've softened and fall more naturally.

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by Rye GB

Measure 15" down from the crotch, then across for knee measurement. The most important measurement to take issue with is the hip measurement. This should be measured across the front of the jean, 8" below the waistband seam. Most Levi repro's in my opinion fit horribly because to much room is allowed in the hips for comfort. Whether worn high or low the problem remains evident.

Looking at the measurements you gave a good hip measurement to look for based upon the 15.75" waist is about 19-20". Leg should taper no more than 1" from knee to
leg opening. A decent thigh measurement of around 20" measuring 1" down from crotch. I'm estimating some of these measurements based on some 31 and 32"s I own, but there close.

This has been mentioned already but to reconfirm try the APC New Standards, Levi 514 and a Dior 19cm, they spec very very close. For me the hip measurements are perfect with a not too low rise.

+1, I wear all three of those models and they definitely have an ideal top block for someone slim enough to give off the pear effect (granted I don't have child rearing hups but still

).

 

[knucks]

In an effort to find better fitting jeans, I plan on going to the Levi's store and trying on a bunch of models, then finding japanese repros

 

[Asch]

Good call on the cuffs, guys! A small turn-up at the bottom has the additional benefit of making my legs look a little shorter. From browsing pics on this forum and attempting to find tops short enough for me (not to mention all the comments earlier in this thread insisting that I must have my jeans pulled up to my chest

) I have come to realize that my legs are freakishly long relative to my torso. These jeans, with a relatively low rise, and a small cuff at the bottom, help to balance out my proportions a bit. I'm loving the feeling of the Iron Heart denim. Its thickness and softness are unreal.