RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

[kmitch101]

I'm looking for an alternative to the white soled boat shoe for casual wear in Spring/Summer to go mostly sockless with shorts, chinos and jeans. These were two options I found so far from Rancourt without going custom. Any opinions on one over the other for the uses I mentioned? Any insight into the Reltex Lactae Hevea sole? In terms of sizing would you recommend going down half a size when planning to go mostly sockless? Thanks.

 

[eljlakers]

I'm looking for an alternative to the white soled boat shoe for casual wear in Spring/Summer to go mostly sockless with shorts, chinos and jeans. These were two options I found so far from Rancourt without going custom. Any opinions on one over the other for the uses I mentioned? Any insight into the Reltex Lactae Hevea sole? In terms of sizing would you recommend going down half a size when planning to go mostly sockless? Thanks.

I have virtually the shoe on the top with one difference - I have the RLH ranger sole, rather than the Aspen, so there's a bit of a step in the heel. Can't recommend them highly enough. This past week, I went from wearing them in 20 degree weather in DC to sockless 80 degree weather in Florida for a couple days and they fit beautifully both ways. I took an 8.5 in these, the same size as my Alden Barries (which are a touch roomier than these).

 

[chuckb]

I'm looking for an alternative to the white soled boat shoe for casual wear in Spring/Summer to go mostly sockless with shorts, chinos and jeans. These were two options I found so far from Rancourt without going custom. Any opinions on one over the other for the uses I mentioned? Any insight into the Reltex Lactae Hevea sole? In terms of sizing would you recommend going down half a size when planning to go mostly sockless? Thanks.

I have a pair of those baxter mocs (basically) and a couple pairs with the camp sole (as on the second pair). To my mind there are two issues you need to consider - one, the baxter is going to look considerably more rugged - the combination of the leather midsole and the treads in the sole definitely make it look tougher and less sleek. The camp sole, by contrast, doesn't have a midsole and is very low-profile. The second thing to consider is that the camp sole will pull up water through the stitching - there's a groove in the sole that lets water through, whereas the aspen sole doesn't have this issue. If I were looking to wear the shoes mostly in warm weather and didn't mind getting my feet a bit wet, I would go with the camp sole. If I were looking for something that I didn't mind wearing in cold weather and in some rain, I'd go with the rlh aspen.

 

[kmitch101]

I have virtually the shoe on the top with one difference - I have the RLH ranger sole, rather than the Aspen, so there's a bit of a step in the heel. Can't recommend them highly enough. This past week, I went from wearing them in 20 degree weather in DC to sockless 80 degree weather in Florida for a couple days and they fit beautifully both ways. I took an 8.5 in these, the same size as my Alden Barries (which are a touch roomier than these).

I have a pair of those baxter mocs (basically) and a couple pairs with the camp sole (as on the second pair). To my mind there are two issues you need to consider - one, the baxter is going to look considerably more rugged - the combination of the leather midsole and the treads in the sole definitely make it look tougher and less sleek. The camp sole, by contrast, doesn't have a midsole and is very low-profile. The second thing to consider is that the camp sole will pull up water through the stitching - there's a groove in the sole that lets water through, whereas the aspen sole doesn't have this issue. If I were looking to wear the shoes mostly in warm weather and didn't mind getting my feet a bit wet, I would go with the camp sole. If I were looking for something that I didn't mind wearing in cold weather and in some rain, I'd go with the rlh aspen.

Thanks for the input guys. Definitely gave me some good points to consider.

 

[space4lyfe]

Hey guys, I recently purchased some Rancourt made (Eastland Made in Maine) Trail Oxfords. They look great however I noticed stitching problems on the bottom of both shoes.

I was wondering if this could lead to the stitching unravelling and the sole separating? I am kinda hoping I can keep them as they look great otherwise, but if they are a structural problem I will return them

 

[wdahab]



Hey guys, I recently purchased some Rancourt made (Eastland Made in Maine) Trail Oxfords. They look great however I noticed stitching problems on the bottom of both shoes.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I was wondering if this could lead to the stitching unravelling and the sole separating? I am kinda hoping I can keep them as they look great otherwise, but if they are a structural problem I will return them

I don't see any stitching problems. Are you talking about the part where they end the stitch? That's normal, just how they do it.

 

[space4lyfe]

Ya, I was talking about the frayed stitching (mainly seen in the top picture). But you are right, looks like thats just where they end the stitch. I guess the top one was just done a bit sloppier. Thanks

 

[anrobit]

A Visit to Rancourt & Company

Recently, cathpah and I paid a visit to the Rancourt factory in Lewiston, Maine, and we thought we would share our experience. Going into the tour, we were both uncertain what to expect, but were blown away by the hospitality and welcoming displayed by Katie, Rancourt’s customer experience manager. She hosted us for nearly three and a half hours, guiding us through the factory and patiently answering our endless questions. We’d like to send a big thanks to her, as she was a phenomenal host, and to Rancourt as a whole for allowing us to tour the factory. Apologies in advance for any image quality issues; the photos were taken on a phone camera. In addition, we are not able to share some things for various privacy reasons. We hope to tour Highland and Quoddy in the future, as I’m sure they would also be very welcoming.

The Factory Tour



We started our tour in the the conference room, where there were a wide variety of styles on display. Unfortunately, some of them have not been released yet, so we don’t have many images of these. We also discussed Rancourt’s various leather sources, which include Horween, S.B. Foot, Stead in England, and and La Veneta in Italy.



From the conference room, we progressed to Rancourt’s storeroom, which was stuffed to the brim (leather, soles, tucks, welt, insoles). A shipment from Horween had arrived recently and was waiting to be unpacked.



There was also some shell lying around from Shinki-Hikaku, the Japanese supplier of shell. An old order that had asked for it and Rancourt never used it all. Neither cathpah nor I were very impressed by it.



As was previously known, Rancourt buys only natural unfinished, color 8, and black shell from Horween. Other colors are dyed as needed from natural shell. Rancourt receives approximately 50 shells per month from Horween.



Following the storeroom, we began our tour of the Rancourt factory floor. Rancourt has recently added a laser cutter to speed their clicking process. However, they said that they will continue to do clicking by hand.



Rancourt has dies for many different patterns in full size ranges, as shown in some of the photos.



Once the individual pieces are cut, they are grouped by individual pieces, placed on racks, and moved to initial processing.



Initial processing occurs next to the clicking section. Here, the leather is stamped with the requisite information.



In addition, the edges of some leather pieces are skived (thinned) to make the handsewing process easier. Portions of the shoe are also stitched together by machine to prepare for the handsewing stage.



Prior to handsewing, the leather is dipped or soaked in a water tank. The length of time spent in the water depends on the leather being used. All handsewing is done on wet leather, as it is softer and more pliable. In addition, prior to lasting, the fiberboard tuck is attached to the last. EDIT: random note, but most of Rancourt's lasts are apparently decades old, from back in the days when the company first started, and have made it with them through the Cole Haan and Allen Edmonds days



Then, the shoe is sewn around the last using waxed horsetail threads from a few miles down the road from Rancourt’s factory. Following the handsewing process, the shoes are placed in a heated storage rack to dry and tighten on the last, followed by a period on an unheated storage rack to conform to the last.




Once the shoe has been sewn, it moves on to the final stage of processing, where soles,edging, and finishes are applied. Soles for the handsewns are temporarily glued, then stitched on by machine, similar to the rapid process used for their Blake/Rapid shoes.



Once soles are attached, they are trimmed down to the correct size (an example being the crepe soles, which are cut in larger pieces. This trimming is done entirely by hand without a guide. The finishing machinery is also nearby (some of which is not pictured)



We didn’t ask a lot of details about the finishes Rancourt applies, but they primarily do some basic cleaning and shining in the final stages. Once completed, shoes are placed back on the racks, where they will undergo quality control checks before packaging and shipping.




We asked less questions about the Blake/Rapid shoes, but much of it is done similarly to the above process. As Kyle has mentioned in earlier posts, Rancourt uses fiberboard wrapped in leather as the insole of Blake/Rapid shoes.




Rancourt also does recrafting services for all Rancourt-branded products. Finally, Rancourt rarely has seconds or damaged shoes, but when they do, they are all donated to charity.

Final Notes


Although this may not be a ton of new information, it was a great experience and we wanted to share with someone. Again, our thanks go out to Katie and to Rancourt as a whole. Cathpah and I will be happy to try to answer any questions you may have. A full album with all images (and a few not included) can be found here. Thanks for reading!

 

[halfnhalfnhalf]

A Visit to Rancourt & Company

Recently, cathpah and I paid a visit to the Rancourt factory in Lewiston, Maine, and we thought we would share our experience. Going into the tour, we were both uncertain what to expect, but were blown away by the hospitality and welcoming displayed by Katie, Rancourt’s customer experience manager. She hosted us for nearly three and a half hours, guiding us through the factory and patiently answering our endless questions. We’d like to send a big thanks to her, as she was a phenomenal host, and to Rancourt as a whole for allowing us to tour the factory. Apologies in advance for any image quality issues; the photos were taken on a phone camera. In addition, we are not able to share some things for various privacy reasons. We hope to tour Highland and Quoddy in the future, as I’m sure they would also be very welcoming.

+1000. Thank you for this fantastic and extremely informative writeup of what sounds like a great visit. Looking forward to maybe someday taking my own tour!

 

[pwkd]

Would love to see some pics of some broken in suede Blakes!

 

[dddrees]

A Visit to Rancourt & Company

Recently, cathpah and I paid a visit to the Rancourt factory in Lewiston, Maine, and we thought we would share our experience. Going into the tour, we were both uncertain what to expect, but were blown away by the hospitality and welcoming displayed by Katie, Rancourt’s customer experience manager. She hosted us for nearly three and a half hours, guiding us through the factory and patiently answering our endless questions. We’d like to send a big thanks to her, as she was a phenomenal host, and to Rancourt as a whole for allowing us to tour the factory. Apologies in advance for any image quality issues; the photos were taken on a phone camera. In addition, we are not able to share some things for various privacy reasons. We hope to tour Highland and Quoddy in the future, as I’m sure they would also be very welcoming.



Fabulous


Enjoyed this a lot, thanks for taking the time and effort to share.

 

[gmmiddle]

A Visit to Rancourt & Company


We asked less questions about the Blake/Rapid shoes, but much of it is done similarly to the above process. As Kyle has mentioned in earlier posts, Rancourt uses fiberboard wrapped in leather as the insole of Blake/Rapid shoes.

Great virtual trip through the factory! Thanks for posting!

Best part...seeing my olive beef rolls on the bottom rack! RLHs coming for summer!

 

[wdahab]

First day of the season wearing my shell ranger mocs. They are so wonderful, and fit perfectly without socks. Still on the fence about sending them to Rancourt for that little bit that's cracking, as Kyle assured me that he'd replace the vamp for me if I want. I just would hate to lose the beautiful Ruby shade, they are an amazing, brilliant red. Can't wait to see how they patina in the sun.

 

[dddrees]

First day of the season wearing my shell ranger mocs. They are so wonderful, and fit perfectly without socks. Still on the fence about sending them to Rancourt for that little bit that's cracking, as Kyle assured me that he'd replace the vamp for me if I want. I just would hate to lose the beautiful Ruby shade, they are an amazing, brilliant red. Can't wait to see how they patina in the sun.

I have to imagine the little bit that is cracking can't be a good thing. But here's hoping it works for you, and besides I imagine his offer didn't have a time limit on it.

 

[wdahab]

So, just got my J Press bow-tie tassle loafers, Eastland Made in Maine, and it looks to my eye that they are Yuketen, or maybe Highland, rather than Rancourt made. They are Here for about $110+tax/shipping. Diamond pattern on the sole, size stamped on the tongue, double leather sole, and nothing stamped on the bottom of the sole for any kind of branding. Interesting thing to notice, means that I have to stop advising that Eastland Made in Maines are all Rancourts. That said, the shoes are great, and of course I'll take any of the 5 hand-sewing shops (throwing NEOC and Quoddy into the mix as well).

So, yeah. End of the day, I'll still take any Eastland MiM loafers I see on sale. Sized up and narrow for a 10D. Not as great a fit as a 9.5EE, but it works.

BTW, those green shell cordovan loafers I scored are Yuketen, retailed for $750 apparently. They are gorgeous, however they are a hair big on my feet, so they're going up either on the marketplace or on eBay, once I get some photos taken. I only feel a *little* guilty about the profit I'll make off of them.