Putting Together A Black-Tie Rig

[TheMangelo]

Despite the fact that I will have very little occasion to wear it—once a year is stretching it—I'm currently putting together a black-tie outfit. I've gone over the Black Tie Guide and am now actually trying to source the actual bits and baubles at a reasonable price, within the next month or two. I figured it would be worth journaling here—your constructive criticism is appreciated.

My criteria:

1. Value for money is important, due to the aforementioned infrequent use of the thing.
2. Something that can be sourced locally, especially for shirts and shoes, is greatly preferred over online purchases.
3. Where online is the better option, the vendor must offer a) no-hassle returns, and b) import taxes and duties in the invoiced price—think Mr Porter over eBay.

Here's what I have:

• The actual tuxedo. It's a Hugo Boss Cary Grant model. Yes, I know, it's not SF's first choice, but it's made like a proper tuxedo, rather than a suit pattern with satin facing on the lapels: peak lapels, single covered button, no vent, besom pockets, no belt loops, roped shoulders. It's not canvassed and it's not made of a vicuna/supermodel-hair blend, but it fits well and was $375 out the door, so I'm okay with that. It's currently with my tailor for a bit of slimming as it's a bit of a boxier cut than I like.

Here's what I need:

• The tuxedo shirt. Hidden-button is preferred as it looks sleeker to my eye, and it means I don't have to purchase studs. Turn-down collar is the obvious choice. I saw a Canali number with such features at Harry Rosen for ~$275 but the link is not working right now. I'd prefer cheaper. Kent Wang's option is studded, but it's about half the price, so I can more easily justify the purchase, but per their measurements the size 15 will leave me with sleeves that are about an inch too short; I'm going back and for with Aaron from their MTM department to fix that. I saw a Canadian-made shirt for about the same price at Ogilvy but didn't bother trying it on yet.
• The shoes. These will be a sizeable chunk of the need to double duty, so pumps/slippers just aren't justifiable. The go-to is an AE Park Avenue shined up good and proper, which I've tried on (10.5D), about $400 after taxes. For about $100 more I can pick up some Grenson Moorgate cap-toes. Is the English-shoe cred worth the extra money? I know that plain-toe is preferable to cap-toe, and I e-mailed C&J for info on their Wembley shoe, but it's too far outside of my comfort zone to drop that much money on a shoe that I can't try on until it's purchased, shipped, and cleared customs.
• The bow tie and cummerbund. Ideally matched. Most bow-ties I find online, even in the $200+ range, seem to be of the pre-tied style. Which is stupid. I may just go for Kent Wang's bow-tie and cummerbund set and be done with it. This Turnbull & Asser option is also available at twice the price, but there's no matching cummerbund.
• The baubles. Simple onyx set of cufflinks (and studs, if applicable). May will go with something a bit more fun for the links, though it must stay classy and understated. Haven't really looked into this much yet.

So, onwards and upwards and all that.

 

[GBR]

Well done!

 

[Fred G. Unn]



[*] The bow tie and cummerbund. Ideally matched. Most bow-ties I find online, even in the $200+ range, seem to be of the pre-tied style. Which is stupid. I may just go for Kent Wang's bow-tie and cummerbund set and be done with it. This Turnbull & Asser option is also available at twice the price, but there's no matching cummerbund.

Not cheap, but I wanted to point out Drake's makes bow ties & cummerbunds in both satin and grosgrain, so that could be another option for you.
http://www.drakes-london.com/online-shop/bow-ties
http://www.drakes-london.com/online-shop/accessories?product_filter=314

 

[TheMangelo]

Thank you! I'll look into that.

One thought on bow-ties: width. 3" seems to be the norm, but frankly their 2"-wide counterparts seem a little less… exaggerated.

 

[TheMangelo]

An update: I ended up ordering the bulk of my remaining items from Kent Wang.

• Tuxedo shirt
• Bow tie
• Cummerbund
• Onyx & MOP shirt studs
• Benchgrade plain-toe balmorals

I'm pretty certain the shirt will have to go back for "MTM" changes as the sleeve length, per their measurements page, is about 1" shorter than any tailored shirts I have.

Otherwise, hopefully I'm happy with the aesthetic—not many photos to go by on the site.

 

[TheMangelo]

The tuxedo is home from my tailor, and the MTM tuxedo shirt is in process with Kent Wang's artisans.

Still to acquire:

• Cufflinks, maybe these?
• Braces, white
• Black silk stockings

Still to do:

• Practice tying a bow tie until my fingers bleed