Pls critique my 1st bespoke suit

[nilfire77]

Here's a better photo after some steaming on the fabrics... And hopefully it tells a different story this time round... I noticed a little puckering near the right armhole on the back... Is it normal?

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by alliswell

The "fabric bunching" is intentional - it's intended to leave room to move your arms.

Well, you can argue that it's "drape" or whatever, but bunching fabric under the arms is certainly not required to allow arm movement.

 

[Despos]

Vertical lines across the back are ok. Diagonal lines, like this, reflect the cutting. This is your low shoulder and it needs further adjusting.

 

[Yika]

nilfire77, mind sharing the cost (pm if you feel more comfortable that way)?

 

[Despos]

I wouldn't do anything based on one picture. May be the way you are standing at the moment. It really isn't that bad.

Sleeve length and shirt cuff look great

 

[nilfire77]

Originally Posted by Yika

nilfire77, mind sharing the cost (pm if you feel more comfortable that way)?

PM-ed

 

[nilfire77]

Originally Posted by Despos

I wouldn't do anything based on one picture. May be the way you are standing at the moment. It really isn't that bad.

Sleeve length and shirt cuff look great

Well, I took quite a few shots on the back and yet the puckering remains visible near the right armhole. The left is ok though.

Will the adjustment on the affected area require substantial handiwork?

 

[Despos]

Quickest fix is to add a little pad on your right shoulder. That will pick the shoulder up and remove the diagonal wrinkle.

The other way is to remove the sleeve, open the shoulder, recut the shoulder, make the shoulder again and put the sleeve on. The right shoulder looks a little bumpy. Might correct that along the way.

 

[nilfire77]

Originally Posted by Despos

Quickest fix is to add a little pad on your right shoulder. That will pick the shoulder up and remove the diagonal wrinkle.

The other way is to remove the sleeve, open the shoulder, recut the shoulder, make the shoulder again and put the sleeve on. The right shoulder looks a little bumpy. Might correct that along the way.

Thanks for the pointers!

 

[nilfire77]

The downside over at Iris is that there's no 3-way mirror there. So for those heading down to Iris for business, it's best to have a 'spotter' with you...

 

[academe]

Originally Posted by Despos

Quickest fix is to add a little pad on your right shoulder. That will pick the shoulder up and remove the diagonal wrinkle.

The other way is to remove the sleeve, open the shoulder, recut the shoulder, make the shoulder again and put the sleeve on. The right shoulder looks a little bumpy. Might correct that along the way.

Chris,

How much do you think the lack of padding and "bumpiness" in the shoulders may reflect the preference of some posters for very little or no padding in their shoulders? I have noticed this with many members who have requested natural shoulders, etc. on their commissions; natural imperfections (e.g. low shoulders, unevenness in the shoulders, etc.) is much more apparent if you adhere strictly to the "no/minimal padding" dictum... Having made a few garments both with minimal padding in the shoulders (uneven shoulders, etc. plainly obvious) as well as garments with slightly more padding (to even out natural structural imperfections), I'm leaning towards the second in my future commissions, i.e. asking my tailors to try and conceal some of my natural flaws.

 

[academe]

Originally Posted by nilfire77

Here's a better photo after some steaming on the fabrics... And hopefully it tells a different story this time round...

I noticed a little puckering near the right armhole on the back... Is it normal?

The new pictures definitely look better (not that the first pics were bad at all). I like what they've made for you... I personally like the slightly over-extended shoulders, as I think it gives your upper body a more clearly defined "V" shape and nice balance relatively to the skirt flair. It's quite a shapely garment, so I would be concerned about narrowing the shoulders any further, as it might accentuate the skirt flair and your hips, rather than your shoulders. Also I think cutting shoulders too neat to your body can restrict movement in your arms, or at least that has been my experience.

You should post a link of this thread to gshen's Singapore bespoke threak so that they can cross-reference each other... Another nice example of the above-average work that Nani and Jeffrey do...

 

[Despos]

If the construction of the shoulder is done well you shouldn't notice any difference between a padded or non padded shoulder. Should not be any bumps in either.

Originally Posted by academe

Chris,

How much do you think the lack of padding and "bumpiness" in the shoulders may reflect the preference of some posters for very little or no padding in their shoulders? I have noticed this with many members who have requested natural shoulders, etc. on their commissions; natural imperfections (e.g. low shoulders, unevenness in the shoulders, etc.) is much more apparent if you adhere strictly to the "no/minimal padding" dictum... Having made a few garments both with minimal padding in the shoulders (uneven shoulders, etc. plainly obvious) as well as garments with slightly more padding (to even out natural structural imperfections), I'm leaning towards the second in my future commissions, i.e. asking my tailors to try and conceal some of my natural flaws.

 

[phxlawstudent]

Looks better. I'd keep it.


@ Despos,
Still patiently waiting for the chest shape difference explanation if you have the time or inclination. Very curious.

 

[facet]

Originally Posted by phxlawstudent

Looks better. I'd keep it.


@ Despos,
Still patiently waiting for the chest shape difference explanation if you have the time or inclination. Very curious.

My noob's interpretation took it to mean that Asian males tend to have smaller chests than North American counterparts. So, if the OP has a larger chest, then it would fill out the suit more, causing the V to push out into more of a U shape. Having more fabric could make up for that by covering more of the circumference of the chest to bring the sides of the gorge (is that what it's called?) closer together.

Am I off, Despos?

@ nilfire77: That's a very nice looking suit, I really like the colour that you chose.