Pls critique my 1st bespoke suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nilfire77, Mar 24, 2011.

  1. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Senior member

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    Other than some wrinkling, it looks good. Specifically in the waist.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Suit looks above average. Could use more chest to give a V line to the opening between the lapels rather than the U shape it has. This is common to Asian tailors as Asian men have very different chest shapes. It has more to do with the canvass than the cutting of the cloth.
    You're low on the right shoulder but not just at the tip of your shoulder but at the neck as well. That is why the right side of the collar falls away from your neck more than the left side.
    Addressing these two issues would bring a more refined look to the fit of the jacket
     
  3. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    LOVE this fabric. Great choice. Suit looks great and screams "money" to me. I'm not crazy about such a wide lapel, but I'm not far off from fashion-suit land so don't listen to me on that front.

    Great job! [​IMG]
     
  4. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    Your tailor do collar very poor,
    it bulges out.
    Many tailor make poor collar,
    even big names.
     
  5. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    Suit looks above average. Could use more chest to give a V line to the opening between the lapels rather than the U shape it has. This is common to Asian tailors as Asian men have very different chest shapes. It has more to do with the canvass than the cutting of the cloth.
    You're low on the right shoulder but not just at the tip of your shoulder but at the neck as well. That is why the right side of the collar falls away from your neck more than the left side.
    Addressing these two issues would bring a more refined look to the fit of the jacket


    You have now gotten me compulsively examining my chest shape as an Asian man. [​IMG]

    Can you elaborate more on this? I also use Iris -- but I might have a more typical "white" guy build as I'm pretty large and athletically built.
     
  6. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Well are they or aren't they? They look a bit wide and from the back there is fabric bunching up under both armpits. The fabric bunching could be from the cut there, could be the jacket needs steamed, or could be shoulders are too wide. My hunch is that if the shoulders were slightly narrower the fabric bunching would be gone.

    The "fabric bunching" is intentional - it's intended to leave room to move your arms.

    wow.
    hmmm is it just me or is there something a little off about your left (right in the pic) shoulder? doesnt look as straight as the other side...


    Everyone has one lower shoulder.

    very good.
    I think the jacket is just a tiny bit tight in the waist and hip 1" total to let out
    next go round they could reduce point to point 1/4" each side


    You forgot about prominent calves... I think that the pants should be cut with more space at the back to account for the fact that you lock your knees when standing.

    Suit looks above average. Could use more chest to give a V line to the opening between the lapels rather than the U shape it has. This is common to Asian tailors as Asian men have very different chest shapes. It has more to do with the canvass than the cutting of the cloth.
    You're low on the right shoulder but not just at the tip of your shoulder but at the neck as well. That is why the right side of the collar falls away from your neck more than the left side.
    Addressing these two issues would bring a more refined look to the fit of the jacket


    Chris-

    Are you talking about a chest dart to address a forward chest?

    You have now gotten me compulsively examining my chest shape as an Asian man. [​IMG]

    Can you elaborate more on this? I also use Iris -- but I might have a more typical "white" guy build as I'm pretty large and athletically built.


    Let's see what Chris says about a forward chest. And Mina won't like you running around behind her back [​IMG]
     
  7. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Suit looks above average. Could use more chest to give a V line to the opening between the lapels rather than the U shape it has. This is common to Asian tailors as Asian men have very different chest shapes.

    Could you please explain this further? Are you saying that Asian men's different chest shapes mean a U shape is better?

    To OP: How many fittings did you go for and how long was the entire process?Looks not bad at all. I have an odd jacket in the works at Iris, we'll see how that turns out.
     
  8. nilfire77

    nilfire77 Member

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    Your tailor do collar very poor,
    it bulges out.
    Many tailor make poor collar,
    even big names.


    Thanks for the comments. Do u have any pictorial example of how a perfect collar looks like? Or at least near perfect? Thanks again!
     
  9. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Thanks for the comments. Do u have any pictorial example of how a perfect collar looks like? Or at least near perfect? Thanks again!

    Not many tailor can do a proper collar,
    but me try and find a picture in next couple of days.
     
  10. nilfire77

    nilfire77 Member

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    Could you please explain this further? Are you saying that Asian men's different chest shapes mean a U shape is better?

    To OP: How many fittings did you go for and how long was the entire process?Looks not bad at all. I have an odd jacket in the works at Iris, we'll see how that turns out.


    I had a total of 5 fittings over a span of nearly 2 months. It was a busy period for Nani and co then.
     
  11. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    I had a total of 5 fittings over a span of nearly 2 months. It was a busy period for Nani and co then.

    Did the 5 fittings include measurements?

    I assume you live in Singapore and picked in up recently?
     
  12. nilfire77

    nilfire77 Member

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    Did the 5 fittings include measurements?

    I assume you live in Singapore and picked in up recently?


    That's a yes for both questions.
     
  13. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    The "fabric bunching" is intentional - it's intended to leave room to move your arms.



    Everyone has one lower shoulder.



    You forgot about prominent calves... I think that the pants should be cut with more space at the back to account for the fact that you lock your knees when standing.



    Chris-

    Are you talking about a chest dart to address a forward chest?



    Let's see what Chris says about a forward chest. And Mina won't like you running around behind her back [​IMG]


    Were you one of the gents I met at Mina's last NYC trip or did you figure out my infidelity through post stalking?

    Does this mean I'm a bad person for imagining parallel LH, NSM, Chan, and Iris Tailor commissions? [​IMG]
     
  14. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    That's where I know you from.
     

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