*** Official S/S 2013 Runway Thread ***

[KingJulien]

Who actually wears Galliano's menswear

 

[SirGrotius]

DH was boring. I thought the shoes were too bulky (not as bad close up), and the leather jackets were a letdown.

 

[dantebykiko]

Lanvin looks quite good from twitter photos. High waisted pants with simple t-shirts. Will check it out as soon as I reach my laptop.

 

[brad-t]

i liked miharayasuhiro a lot. unsurprising i guess haha

 

[sipang]

Idk, not really feeling Lanvin new direction. Got some serious Raf circa '05 vibes from the last two collections though...

 

[sipang]

More Aitor tease

 

[GoldenTribe]

Cuz there aren't enough skulls in menswear between McQueen, Raf, CdG, and the odd RLPL cuff links.

 

[sipang]

Considering it's been part of his whole thing since the beginning I don't see the problem, it's probably the least gimmicky too compared to all the examples you cited

 

[jwjp]

damn i could dig a skull backpack like that

 

[GoldenTribe]

The problem is what you've been pointing out for weeks (months?), this guy is trying to create buzz instead of clothes. All anybody has seen is just skulls, and menswear is already oversaturated with skulls. I'm not accusing him of ripping anybody off -- the weird maverick bent is the one thing he's got going for him -- but the longer this goes on, the less likely it is ever going to escape its current alchemy of boredom and masturbation.

 

[Lionheart Biker]

Band of Outsiders ende up not being the longest show ever, that was taken away today by Pierre Cardin. First time I see 130+ looks at a runway show (though I´ve only been following the shows for 2 or 3 years).

 

[sipang]

Ha, almost posted the exact same thing, had a look at another Cardin show from a couple years ago the other day just to get an idea and it was about the same.



^^ GoldenTribe

I just wanted to post clearer pics from the presentation


I get what you're saying but tbh if you hadn't mentionned McQueen, CdG and Raf (didn't even remember than one) they wouldn't have come to mind while looking at this (didn't think you were accusing anyone of ripping anybody off though...), for the time being I just enjoy the peek into the creative process with little concern for what the end result will look like

 

[Ivwri]

Not that I don't agree with the sentiment that the teasing has to stop at some point and clothes have to be shown, but Aitor is definitely working and has been perfecting a lot of the techniques he wants to use in his clothing. I mean, look at the skulls. They are stitched edge to edge with no overlapping seams and according to his press release, they are working on doing that with all of the clothing for the coming collection. That's bloody incredible if you ask me and also takes time to perfect.

Some excerpts from the press release:

Spoiler: Click

"It has taken the design studio approximately 6 years to construct the final 'blocks' from which to construct every subsequent design. The blocking system is a specific construction pattern, which determines the shapes of the pieces to be stitched together."

"Expanding on the studio's unwillingness to utilize traditional solutions, there is also a unified way in which all pieces are sewn. Through years of research and development, a unique process has been developed which allows the studio to stitch virtually any piece of material to another piece without the need for seam allowance. This revolutionary technique utilizes a specific type of vintage sewing machine - in a completely idiosyncratic way - that allows every panel to be stitched edge-to-edge. This instantly simplifies the aesthetic nature of each piece, and creates objects that are much more architectural: more focused on panels than seams."

Another thing to take into account is that Aitor's marketing is probably more frustrating only because we are used to the current fashion industry model. He is doing so much work on teasing his brand and building awareness right now precisely because he is going to be working outside the general fashion system and his brand is all about the processes he uses to design and make his stuff, not primarily about the clothing or accessories in and of themselves. The skull backpack for example gains more meaning when viewed in the context of the backstory he has for it. He is telling a story through his clothing so the behind the scenes stuff is as (if not more) important than what we will finally see and be able to purchase. In a way, we have already seen what the coming collection is going to be since he is only going to be working on stuff from a group of archetypes he has developed over the years - various iterations of really cool pants with cargo pouches and extended hems to cover the feet, transformable hats, shirts with straps to allow for easy combination with the skull pouches, a riding jacket of some sort (that might have been shown already in one of his drawings), transforming jackets with masks and scarves built in, and of course the skull bags. We have already seen all that stuff in drawings or from his older collections and exhibitions, so now he has to sell us the story behind that stuff AND his work process.

I am really in awe of what he is attempting to do as a designer and I really hope it turns out to be successful for him. Can't think of any other designer who is interested in building actual concrete narratives for their clothing as opposed to just selling an ambience.

Won't go for one of those skull backpacks, but I can see myself strewn with the skull pouches at some point in the future .

Has anyone seen Obscur? Beautiful stuff. Styling was excellent (maybe because I am partial to the imagery of Victorian-era medicine. And aprons. And sleeves that act as gloves.)

 

[Ivwri]

Some of my favorite shots from the Obscur lookbook (?). Apparently the collection is going to be primarily "...experimental paper-cottons, linen and cotton mixes, thin and airy horse leather skins and pure silver"

















More here

 

[sipang]

Can't say I ever cared about Obscur but I had a quick look earlier and it's impressive.