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From the heights to the depths in so few posts...
UNIFORM LA CHILLICOTHE WORK JACKET Drop, going on right now.
Uniform LA's Chillicothe Work Jacket is an elevated take on the classic Detroit Work Jacket. Made of ultra-premium 14-ounce Japanese canvas, it has been meticulously washed and hand distressed to replicate vintage workwear that’s been worn for years, and available in three colors.
This just dropped today. If you missed out on the preorder, there are some sizes left, but they won't be around for long. Check out the remaining stock here
Good luck!.
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NewC,
As others have said more eloquently than I could, your very thorough and civil response is a reminder of what brings us all together on this forum. Kudos .... but then again, you are a lawyer hence marshaling arguments in a calm and collected manner is par for the course
I am actually surprised by some of your comments regarding your physique. And if thats case, I stand corrected and perhaps should give more credit to your tailor for the (coat) cut which makes you appear slim, broad shouldered, and angular.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to clarify some of these issue and I believe your bespoke journey (mine as well) is an iterative process.
Regarding the brown sport coat, if I could change anything, I would shorten it just a hair bit. Same length may be suitable for a lounge suit but on a sport jacket, it looks a bit off (to my eyes at least).
Alan Bee
I agree with Alan Bee that Newcomer's suit needs a better silhouette and I also agree Alan Bee's suit is way too tight.
The way the suit is shaped around Newcomer's body is great. The only thing needs to be shaped is the sleeves. If you look at BnT's suits and sleeves, you will notice how they create the silhouette by curving the sleeves in (near the elbow area) and then out. This is the key to creating a silhouette while keeping a comfortable suit.
https://www.instagram.com/p/9VNnQpBeGH/
Alan can create the same silhouette shaping the sleeves while loosening up the body to allow some breathing room.
NewC,Alan,
An iterative process it is! Moreover, the more I learn about "CM," the more I recognize that a lot just boils down to individual taste. I believe that you and I likely have different ideas of what is aesthetically pleasing. And I greatly enjoy hearing the thoughts of a person whose thoughts diverge from mine.
I have also recognized that comfort is paramount. You cannot have swagger if you are not comfortable in what you are wearing. I often wear my work clothes for 14 hours a day, and life is way too short to be anything less than comfortable for that period of time.
In any event, I think that I may ask Chris to decrease the length of my navy coat a smidge (currently in the works) in order to make it more appropriate with chinos. I greatly enjoy the longer lines of a bespoke coat (I liken it in my head to a horse blanket), but something slightly shorter may be more appropriate with cotton trousers. The rust coat definitely works best with formal trousers.
Seferphier,
Thanks for the kind words. Personally, I love the sleeves on both of my coats. I will try to take some better pictures showing the curvature. In any event, I believe that they crease very elegantly when my arms are folded and I believe that they move very well when I am walking - which of course, is difficult to communicate in pictures.
Cheers,
Newc.
Hi Sefephier/Bengan,
My clothes aren't tight, very far from it in fact. I can sit down comfortably in either coat with the button fastened without popping a button.
Look at each of those pictures and show me where the buttons or fabric is pulling. If the fabric is pulling horizontally, then the coat is tight. In either picture, theres no pressure on the buttoning point. Just the shape (suppression) at the waist.
Yes, they are very suppressed at the waist and thats because I have a 14 inch drop (between chest and waist). My tailor has tried leaving more room in the waist (during the fitting) which leaves me swimming in the garment and leaves excess fabric in the lower back making it look a bit messy.
Everyones got their physical challenges and thats why we go bespoke. Sometimes its just impossible to conceal your physique even with the help of bespoke tailoring.
Alan Bee
NewC,
Now, the back of that brown coat is simply outstanding. Agreed to all points on your comments above.
What fabric is this and what weight is it? It just drapes beautifully.
Alan Bee
That is a perfect back. I still haven't found a tailor able to execute the back so perfectly.
I would prefer the fit of the brown suit than the grey suit. The grey suit has a better silhouette because there is more space in between the body and the sleeves but it fits less well. As I said before, you could shape the sleeves to achieve the same effect.
Although I understand that you like how the sleeves is shaped, I believe your brown suit would look outstanding if the tailor could shape the sleeves to curve in at the elbow area.