Newc's Bespoke Adventure.

[sugarbutch]

From the heights to the depths in so few posts...

 

[Newcomer]

NewC,

As others have said more eloquently than I could, your very thorough and civil response is a reminder of what brings us all together on this forum. Kudos .... but then again, you are a lawyer hence marshaling arguments in a calm and collected manner is par for the course

I am actually surprised by some of your comments regarding your physique. And if thats case, I stand corrected and perhaps should give more credit to your tailor for the (coat) cut which makes you appear slim, broad shouldered, and angular.

Thank you for taking the time and effort to clarify some of these issue and I believe your bespoke journey (mine as well) is an iterative process.

Regarding the brown sport coat, if I could change anything, I would shorten it just a hair bit. Same length may be suitable for a lounge suit but on a sport jacket, it looks a bit off (to my eyes at least).

Alan Bee

Alan,

An iterative process it is! Moreover, the more I learn about "CM," the more I recognize that a lot just boils down to individual taste. I believe that you and I likely have different ideas of what is aesthetically pleasing. And I greatly enjoy hearing the thoughts of a person whose thoughts diverge from mine.

I have also recognized that comfort is paramount. You cannot have swagger if you are not comfortable in what you are wearing. I often wear my work clothes for 14 hours a day, and life is way too short to be anything less than comfortable for that period of time.

In any event, I think that I may ask Chris to decrease the length of my navy coat a smidge (currently in the works) in order to make it more appropriate with chinos. I greatly enjoy the longer lines of a bespoke coat (I liken it in my head to a horse blanket), but something slightly shorter may be more appropriate with cotton trousers. The rust coat definitely works best with formal trousers.

I agree with Alan Bee that Newcomer's suit needs a better silhouette and I also agree Alan Bee's suit is way too tight.

The way the suit is shaped around Newcomer's body is great. The only thing needs to be shaped is the sleeves. If you look at BnT's suits and sleeves, you will notice how they create the silhouette by curving the sleeves in (near the elbow area) and then out. This is the key to creating a silhouette while keeping a comfortable suit.
https://www.instagram.com/p/9VNnQpBeGH/

Alan can create the same silhouette shaping the sleeves while loosening up the body to allow some breathing room.

Seferphier,

Thanks for the kind words. Personally, I love the sleeves on both of my coats. I will try to take some better pictures showing the curvature. In any event, I believe that they crease very elegantly when my arms are folded and I believe that they move very well when I am walking - which of course, is difficult to communicate in pictures.

Cheers,
Newc.

 

[Alan Bee]

Alan,

An iterative process it is! Moreover, the more I learn about "CM," the more I recognize that a lot just boils down to individual taste. I believe that you and I likely have different ideas of what is aesthetically pleasing. And I greatly enjoy hearing the thoughts of a person whose thoughts diverge from mine.

I have also recognized that comfort is paramount. You cannot have swagger if you are not comfortable in what you are wearing. I often wear my work clothes for 14 hours a day, and life is way too short to be anything less than comfortable for that period of time.

In any event, I think that I may ask Chris to decrease the length of my navy coat a smidge (currently in the works) in order to make it more appropriate with chinos. I greatly enjoy the longer lines of a bespoke coat (I liken it in my head to a horse blanket), but something slightly shorter may be more appropriate with cotton trousers. The rust coat definitely works best with formal trousers.



Seferphier,

Thanks for the kind words. Personally, I love the sleeves on both of my coats. I will try to take some better pictures showing the curvature. In any event, I believe that they crease very elegantly when my arms are folded and I believe that they move very well when I am walking - which of course, is difficult to communicate in pictures.

Cheers,
Newc.

NewC,

Now, the back of that brown coat is simply outstanding. Agreed to all points on your comments above.

What fabric is this and what weight is it? It just drapes beautifully.

Alan Bee

 

[Bengan]

Hi Sefephier/Bengan,

My clothes aren't tight, very far from it in fact. I can sit down comfortably in either coat with the button fastened without popping a button.

Look at each of those pictures and show me where the buttons or fabric is pulling. If the fabric is pulling horizontally, then the coat is tight. In either picture, theres no pressure on the buttoning point. Just the shape (suppression) at the waist.

Yes, they are very suppressed at the waist and thats because I have a 14 inch drop (between chest and waist). My tailor has tried leaving more room in the waist (during the fitting) which leaves me swimming in the garment and leaves excess fabric in the lower back making it look a bit messy.

Everyones got their physical challenges and thats why we go bespoke. Sometimes its just impossible to conceal your physique even with the help of bespoke tailoring.

Alan Bee

The fabric is pulling all over that coat. Surely there must be a middle road between the extreme waist suppression we see in your photograph and "swimming in excess fabric"?

 

[Newcomer]

NewC,

Now, the back of that brown coat is simply outstanding. Agreed to all points on your comments above.

What fabric is this and what weight is it? It just drapes beautifully.

Alan Bee

Not certain about the provenance of the fabric. If I recall correctly, it is Scabal, and it is about 11oz (maybe heavier). Not too heavy, believe it or not. If you look closely at the sides, you will see that it really does hug my torso pretty closely.

The grey suit is actually cut even closer:

 

[Maccimus]

Is it Chris' house style to cut bottom of back piece in that shape? Do recall he said something about it long time ago. Would you mind showing a side view of the brown coat (which in general drapes better than the suit) to see how it work?

 

[seferphier]

That is a perfect back. I still haven't found a tailor able to execute the back so perfectly.

I would prefer the fit of the brown suit than the grey suit. The grey suit has a better silhouette because there is more space in between the body and the sleeves but it fits less well. As I said before, you could shape the sleeves to achieve the same effect.

Although I understand that you like how the sleeves is shaped, I believe your brown suit would look outstanding if the tailor could shape the sleeves to curve in at the elbow area.

 

[wigglr]

That is a perfect back. I still haven't found a tailor able to execute the back so perfectly.

I would prefer the fit of the brown suit than the grey suit. The grey suit has a better silhouette because there is more space in between the body and the sleeves but it fits less well. As I said before, you could shape the sleeves to achieve the same effect.

Although I understand that you like how the sleeves is shaped, I believe your brown suit would look outstanding if the tailor could shape the sleeves to curve in at the elbow area.

I think you may be missing the idea that often the shape of the sleeves is dictated by the shape of the arm - not the other way around. I personally prefer the brown sleeve pitch (which looks less wrinkly, although this may be due to heaviness of fabric) over the grey.

 

[seferphier]

Of course. It is just my opinion. Having said all that, I am not a tailor. But I do not believe, based on his body shape, a tailor cannot create a better silhouette.

I believe the men below have a wider body frame than Newcomer but the silhouette is amazing.

Look at how the sleeves curves - you may argue that it's 100% due to the arm's shape - but i suspect the shape is due to the tailor's masterful work.

 

[Newcomer]

I do prefer the fit of the brown jacket, and that will be the model going forward (with maybe a touch more suppression in a suit - but even so, the brown jacket is far more comfortable - which says a lot because the grey suit was hitherto my most comfortable garment).

In any event, I think that the shape of the sleeves is dictated by how one hangs his or her arms at rest. I have been told that I hang my arms like a neanderthal (by those on the other forum). I may just hang my arms straighter? I do not believe that curved sleeves are an "end" in themselves - I think it is far more important to have sleeves that follow the course of a person's arms. I will be sure to snap some pics of the curvature of the sleeve. For some reason or another, I do not have any pictures on my e-mail.

 

[Newcomer]

After much, much, much consideration, I have finally chosen my next order... *drumroll*

Despite the appeal of a navy jacket, I have decided to go for a midnight blue tuxedo. The first fitting with Chris will be on August 10, so I will update the thread sometime after then.

I am getting married later this year, and, after considering the limited options available for a tuxedo, decided to #treatmyself.

Here are the details that Chris and I have discussed:

Dinner Jacket. Midnight Blue Barathea cloth for everything except for lapels. Black Satin peak lapels. Prefer for peak lapels to be on the wider side with some belly (but still proportionate). Single breasted. One button (covered). Ventless. Jetted hip pockets. Barchetta jacket pocket (i.e., normal pocket). Button hole with boutonniere loup. Bit more roping on the shoulder. 4 sleeve buttons.

Pants. Pleated. Normal side striping. No cuffs. Suspenders.

Vest. Currently working out the details.

This is undoubtedly an extravagance. But I am very excited.

 

[Caustic Man]

Very very good choice on color. Not sure I would do pleated trousers. Isn't that a little bit of a no-no for black tie? At least it's different that anything I've ever seen. Anyway, let me know if you'll let me buy you a drink while you're in Chicago.

 

[Newcomer]

I've always understood that pleated trousers are traditional. And I will let you know CM - it is for a bachelor party so I will likely be dragged in multiple directions, but I will shoot you a PM.

 

[jonathanS]

I much prefer my tuxedo trousers pleated. First they're more traditional (uncuffed, obviously), but theres a more practical reason in that you want to be able to move in them, if the event involves dancing.

Then again, I prefer pleated trousers over flat front bc I workout 6-7 days a week & have larger quads than most, so I prefer the movement.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Tuxedos had both flat front and pleated trousers in its heyday of the 30's & 40's, but some feel flat front is more elegant. I have a DB with pleated trou & and SB with peak lapels and flat front trou, so I like both.

Newc, I'd ask for both a vest and a cummerbund so you can increase its versatility. Also, when chatting with @jefferyd recently he suggested the Milanese buttonhole's shiny appearance would lend itself well to a tuxedo.