Newc's Bespoke Adventure.

[sebastian mcfox]

After much, much, much consideration, I have finally chosen my next order... *drumroll*

View attachment 820566


Pants. Pleated. Normal side striping. No cuffs. Suspenders.

Vest. Currently working out the details.

This is undoubtedly an extravagance. But I am very excited.

Sounds fantastic and I can't wait to see the results. I would choose flat front pants over pleated, I believe it creates a cleaner look overall which will work better for black tie.

 

[Caustic Man]

I think it's the association with military uniforms. I've never seen a dress or mess uniform with pleats. Doesn't mean they don't exist, but they seem to be relatively rare at the least. In any case, pleats look out of place on black tie to me. I don't know how I'd feel about them on a DB tuxedo, but I don't care for those anyway.

 

[jonathanS]

I like pleats. Cary grant, Fred Astaire, Gianni angelli, the duke of Windsor all preferred pleats on their tuxedos. I think this whole anti pleat movement is generated by poorly executed pleats, whereas if properly executed pleats can look better than flat fronts & provide more movement.

 

[Caustic Man]

That's not the case for me. I'm not anti pleat and indeed I have several pairs of trousers with pleats. It's pleats on a tuxedo specifically that I don't like. The two things shouldn't be equated.

 

[jonathanS]

That's not the case for me. I'm not anti pleat and indeed I have several pairs of trousers with pleats. It's pleats on a tuxedo specifically that I don't like. The two things shouldn't be equated.

Interesting. We'll just have to agree to disagree on this one. It's a taste difference & we can't argue that.

 

[Newcomer]

I opted for pleats, asked Chris whether or not he would opt for pleats, and he confirmed that he too would opt for pleats. I like both pleated and not pleated pants, but in the case of the tuxedo, for some reason I equate tuxedos with pleats (and of course, no cuffs).

All that said, I would probably go with no pleats in the RTW scenario. However, pleats with bespoke trew are wonderful things.

And UC - good idea w/r/t to the cummerbund. I may sit the cummerbund out this time (read: budget), but may order the satin.

 

[lordsuperb]

I opted for pleats, asked Chris whether or not he would opt for pleats, and he confirmed that he too would opt for pleats. I like both pleated and not pleated pants, but in the case of the tuxedo, for some reason I equate tuxedos with pleats (and of course, no cuffs).

All that said, I would probably go with no pleats in the RTW scenario. However, pleats with bespoke trew are wonderful things.

And UC - good idea w/r/t to the cummerbund. I may sit the cummerbund out this time (read: budget), but may order the satin.

Cummerbund over vest!

 

[jonathanS]

Cummerbund over vest!

Really? I like vests - the lower cut double breasted ones look rather elegant. I feel like Cummerbund works better w/ shawl & vest works better with peak.

 

[Caustic Man]

Whether Chris would opt for pleats is the least of it. If you want it then that's good enough.

I've always preferred a cummerbund but if I were going to do a vest I think I'd go for one of the backless faille ones.

 

[lordsuperb]

Really? I like vests - the lower cut double breasted ones look rather elegant. I feel like Cummerbund works better w/ shawl & vest works better with peak.

Agreed, but a vest is adding another layer of clothing for him to burn up in. I say keep it simple and stick with the cummerbund.

 

[Patrick R]

Cummerbund!

 

[jonathanS]

Just get both made haha - more options. I'm a fan of double breasted tuxedos to avoid this problem. My 2 main tuxedos both are db. One midnight blue shawl, one black peak 4x2.

 

[Caustic Man]

You can always buy a cummerbund later. No need to have one made.

 

[Newcomer]

I'm sure I'll wear it with cummerbund (which I have , in satin), and with vest. But I love a classic tuxedo vest - and bespoke is literally the only place where you can get one made well.

 

[brax]

Dinner Jacket[/B]. Midnight Blue Barathea cloth for everything except for lapels. Black Satin peak lapels. Prefer for peak lapels to be on the wider side with some belly (but still proportionate). Single breasted. One button (covered). Ventless. Jetted hip pockets. Barchetta jacket pocket (i.e., normal pocket). Button hole with boutonniere loup. Bit more roping on the shoulder. 4 sleeve buttons.

Pants. Pleated. Normal side striping. No cuffs. Suspenders.

Vest. Currently working out the details.

This is undoubtedly an extravagance. But I am very excited.

Nice. Very nice! I went with exactly your options except that I opted for no button hole. Which of the two midnight blue suitings did you chose?
On your vest options, let me know if you want some shots of the "standard" Despos option. If I had to do it over again, I probably would have gone with the U-shaped option. No regrets whatsoever on the other choices.