comrade
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Well, to be fair, when I gain weight, this happens to me.
In my opinion, Vox's Steed jackets (though impeccable) have less distinctively sculpted shaping around the chest than you see here (or on any of the Rubinaccis posted). I think Vox would agree. It's not a bad thing (maybe just more English?), but I think it shows we are talking past each other.
Not to be indelicate, but what is Hitchcock's pedigree? He has often, um, puzzled me, and if there is such a disconnect between what A&S used to be and what it is now, it would suggest that he did not have the same training that the other cutters did. Or something.
Your friend needs to grow his hair out or get a real haircut.
The persistent A&S ... I guess it is not hate but let's call it disdain, still makes me scratch my head. Hitchcock's "pedigree"? Really?
If it doesn't look as off as the waist on your friends suit, that may be acceptable.
Yet posts made by people with actual experience get paid no heed.
Judging from my own suits (which are A&S-like) and California Matt's Rubinaccis, I'd agree. The Rubinacci drape is a lot more interesting to look at, even from afar.
There is no hate or disdain- I am merely curious. I have no information, nor do I care, about his business acumen, I am only interested in the cutting system being used. Edwin has stated that things are no longer done the way they used to be; I trust Edwin to know what their patterns should, or used to look like. If they were both trained in the same school (meaning at A&S)- why is there such a disconnect? So If Mahon trained him, why are things done so differently? What happened? This is not just about armholes.
To me, an A&S suit from 15-20 years ago was as likely as not to have a fit problem of some kind or another. Those from today generally don't.
We can often tell, just by looking at someone's draft, who taught them, just like we look at works by students of D'avinci or Michaelagnelo we can see traces of their influence.
I think it looks pretty good, nothing stands out and fits pretty well. I think that is the essence of a conervative suit.
Oh, I don't dispute that--but it's impossible to know the true provenance of the photo on the website.
I think Manton's point is that things aren't done so differently--at least, not anymore. To be quite honest, I have trouble understanding how anyone, even an expert, could glean much from a promotional photo on a website--not that Edwin isn't well-meaning.