New Raphael suit (not mine)

[Cravate_Noire]

That means a lot to me.

Your friend must be glad to have such guidoance!
May god grant you a few more inches

.

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by A Y

Another likely explanation is that A&S contracted out their website to a web-design house who used a stock photo of a pattern that has nothing to do with A&S cutting tradition.

--Andre

They would have been just as likely to post a stock photo of a coat that has nothing to do with them. As in, not likely at all.

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

They would have been just as likely to post a stock photo of a coat that has nothing to do with them. As in, not likely at all.

True, but it's not uncommon for someone to use a mix of their own photos and fill in the blanks with stock photos. Anyway, as you said, there is a simple way to settle this. So who is going to make the iGent phone call?

--Andre

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

Whnay's coat has a big, glaring fit problem. But we went past that.

I don't see it. I see the cutting issue you mean but the coat looks good to me the way it fits. I suspect that he some of the opening at the quarters was accomplished through a nip at the side seams rather than cutting the front edges. I am not sure why they did that. But what you identified it seems to me would not be noticeable absent that windowpane. I personally don't care that the vertical lines are not perfectly perpendicular to the floor. I would rather have a coat with quarters like that with the lines a bit off than a coat with closed quarters but with perfectly angled lines. It strikes me as more of a pattern (that is, cloth pattern not cutting pattern) manipulation issue than anything else.

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by Manton

. I personally don't care that the vertical lines are not perfectly perpendicular to the floor.

You may not, but you don't make your living from caring about these things. The lines on both sides of the coat should be parallel through the skirt. It's pretty elementary, and what it's doing is very bad.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

You may not, but you don't make your living from caring about these things. The lines on both sides of the coat should be parallel through the skirt. It's pretty elementary, and what it's doing is very bad.

Really? I've seen a zillion striped suits in my day, and the stripes seem to angle as often as they fall straight. If it's a sin, it seems like a venal sin to me. Again, I'd rather have the stripes angle than have coat with an unflattering cut.

 

[dragon8]

Mafoof,

How does your friend like the suit? If he likes it then that's all that matters. I think the suit fits well and looks good on him.

The sportcoat in the other pic looks short compared to the suit.

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by Manton

Really? I've seen a zillion striped RTW suits in my day, and the stripes seem to angle as often as they fall straight. If it's a sin, it seems like a venal sin to me. Again, I'd rather have the stripes angle than have coat with an unflattering cut.

It's common in RTW, it's a big sin (it's evidence of balance trouble) in bespoke. There is another thread where Chris was able to diagnose balance trouble because the stripes crossed by the tiniest fraction compared to what they do here.

 

[CunningSmeagol]

Originally Posted by dragon8

Mafoof,

How does your friend like the suit? If he likes it then that's all that matters.

No, it's not all that matters, and it's weird that you're saying that in a Foof thread.

 

[dragon8]

The suit looks good to me and if the owner/wearer is happy then IMO its all that matters. I doubt 99.9% of the population could find all the "flaws" that we are pointing out.

 

[mmkn]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

The lines on both sides of the coat should be parallel through the skirt. It's pretty elementary, and what it's doing is very bad.

I see what you mean jd, even Mr. Ford thinks so . . .

Originally Posted by Manton

I'd rather have the stripes angle than have coat with an unflattering cut.

True dat, although . . . there is something strained about the bottom half of whnay's jacket . . .

compare

- M

 

[Manton]

Much prefer whnay's to the one below it.

 

[Baron]

I'm still surprised that Foo can't see or won't acknowledge the awkwardness in the waist, at least as seen in the photo. I'm completely willing to believe that it's merely an artifact of the pose, but it's hard not to see it in the picture.

In my earlier comment I also referenced the shoulders, but I guess I really meant the sleeves in the upper arms, which seem constrained. Not sure if that's a pitch issue or what. Whatever errors there are appear to be subtle enough for correction. I have no problem at all with his choice of fabric or style. I'd probably go with a navy worsted or gray flannel for a first bespoke order, too.

 

[mmkn]

Originally Posted by Manton

prefer

I like your language.

FWIW, the bottom is an oldie Duke of Windsor, in some museum somewhere.

- M

 

[whnay.]

This thread is hilarious.

My first coat, the one pictured, is not perfect - it also isn't as flattering as my LH garments. I mentioned the quarters issue to him while in NYC in October. My next coat, which I'm picking up next Friday, hopefully should be a step in the right direction. As always, I'll post pics for all those to admire / ridicule!