• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • UNIFORM LA CHILLICOTHE WORK JACKET Drop, going on right now.

    Uniform LA's Chillicothe Work Jacket is an elevated take on the classic Detroit Work Jacket. Made of ultra-premium 14-ounce Japanese canvas, it has been meticulously washed and hand distressed to replicate vintage workwear that’s been worn for years, and available in three colors.

    This just dropped today. If you missed out on the preorder, there are some sizes left, but they won't be around for long. Check out the remaining stock here

    Good luck!.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Name-Brand MTM vs. Bespoke

bgump

New Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2016
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Long time lurker, first time poster here. I tried to find an answer to my question but couldn't find a thread. If you know of one, just send me a link to it.

I am looking to get a new suit or two and was wondering if it would be best to get a made to measure from a name brand, eg. Samuelsohn, Hickey Freeman, Canali, etc., or from a local bespoke tailor. One local tailor has a package where you can get two bespoke suits and shirts for around $2600. I've provided their link below so you can look and help me out.

Culwell & Son http://www.culwell.com

There are other local stores that are a little pricier, but it may be worth the price to go there for a better fit as opposed to MTM from a name brand. One of those is Q Clothiers.

Q Clothiers http://qclothier.com

So any advice? Should I wait for a trunk show and get a name brand MTM or go to one of these local tailors for bespoke?
 

Testudo_Aubreii

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2011
Messages
947
Reaction score
309

Long time lurker, first time poster here. I tried to find an answer to my question but couldn't find a thread. If you know of one, just send me a link to it.

I am looking to get a new suit or two and was wondering if it would be best to get a made to measure from a name brand, eg. Samuelsohn, Hickey Freeman, Canali, etc., or from a local bespoke tailor. One local tailor has a package where you can get two bespoke suits and shirts for around $2600. I've provided their link below so you can look and help me out.

Culwell & Son http://www.culwell.com

There are other local stores that are a little pricier, but it may be worth the price to go there for a better fit as opposed to MTM from a name brand. One of those is Q Clothiers.

Q Clothiers http://qclothier.com

So any advice? Should I wait for a trunk show and get a name brand MTM or go to one of these local tailors for bespoke?


Bespoke is generally better. but the relationship with the cutter and tailor matters more than it does in MTM. I'd go to Culwell's and ask to talk with the cutter, see some examples of the work, talk to the cutter about the process--how many measurements? how many fittings? full canvassed? what kind of shoulder expression is the standard? what kind of silhouette? and then see how you feel. If you like the cutter and the work, then good. Check out this thread for some useful advice on bespeaking clothes and finding a cutter and tailor.

Oh, yes. And dress well when you go asking your questions. You want to show that you're serious, and at the same time give the cutter a sense of where you're coming from, clothes-wise.
 
Last edited:

bgump

New Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2016
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Thanks for the response and thread.

I guess as a quick, general follow up question. Are the tailors at trunk shows known for being good. Or would I get a better fit by going to a store like Culwell if they have more measurements and fittings, with all else being equal in regards to construction of the suit?
 

Testudo_Aubreii

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2011
Messages
947
Reaction score
309

Thanks for the response and thread.

I guess as a quick, general follow up question. Are the tailors at trunk shows known for being good. Or would I get a better fit by going to a store like Culwell if they have more measurements and fittings, with all else being equal in regards to construction of the suit?


There's no simple answer: the best way to get a handle on this is to read the Cutter & Tailor's Guide for Bespeakers. Bespoke always has the possibility of better fit than any MTM. In MTM, the person who measures for you is almost never the cutter--the person who makes the pattern for your garment. In bespoke, the person who measures you almost always cuts. So there's more of a chance of miscommunication between measurements and cutting in MTM than bespoke. IN MTM, there's always a limit to the number of measurements, fittings (if any), and alterations to the block pattern. In bespoke, in principle, the sky is the limit. A good bespoke cutter who does good work for you will give you a better fit than any MTM could, so long as the cutter's tailors do a good job at trimming and making up.
 

Astaroth

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
346
Reaction score
41
First of all check if it is actually "bespoke". There are no formal definitions in most places and as such sometimes MTM is marketed as bespoke.

I dont know the company you mention at all but a quick look at their website/ store images etc and I would be very surprised if they arent MTM
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 97 37.6%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 93 36.0%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 30 11.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 43 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 14.7%

Forum statistics

Threads
507,212
Messages
10,594,611
Members
224,386
Latest member
Michel1233
Top