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Name-Brand MTM vs. Bespoke

bgump

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Long time lurker, first time poster here. I tried to find an answer to my question but couldn't find a thread. If you know of one, just send me a link to it.

I am looking to get a new suit or two and was wondering if it would be best to get a made to measure from a name brand, eg. Samuelsohn, Hickey Freeman, Canali, etc., or from a local bespoke tailor. One local tailor has a package where you can get two bespoke suits and shirts for around $2600. I've provided their link below so you can look and help me out.

Culwell & Son http://www.culwell.com

There are other local stores that are a little pricier, but it may be worth the price to go there for a better fit as opposed to MTM from a name brand. One of those is Q Clothiers.

Q Clothiers http://qclothier.com

So any advice? Should I wait for a trunk show and get a name brand MTM or go to one of these local tailors for bespoke?
 

Testudo_Aubreii

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Long time lurker, first time poster here. I tried to find an answer to my question but couldn't find a thread. If you know of one, just send me a link to it.

I am looking to get a new suit or two and was wondering if it would be best to get a made to measure from a name brand, eg. Samuelsohn, Hickey Freeman, Canali, etc., or from a local bespoke tailor. One local tailor has a package where you can get two bespoke suits and shirts for around $2600. I've provided their link below so you can look and help me out.

Culwell & Son http://www.culwell.com

There are other local stores that are a little pricier, but it may be worth the price to go there for a better fit as opposed to MTM from a name brand. One of those is Q Clothiers.

Q Clothiers http://qclothier.com

So any advice? Should I wait for a trunk show and get a name brand MTM or go to one of these local tailors for bespoke?


Bespoke is generally better. but the relationship with the cutter and tailor matters more than it does in MTM. I'd go to Culwell's and ask to talk with the cutter, see some examples of the work, talk to the cutter about the process--how many measurements? how many fittings? full canvassed? what kind of shoulder expression is the standard? what kind of silhouette? and then see how you feel. If you like the cutter and the work, then good. Check out this thread for some useful advice on bespeaking clothes and finding a cutter and tailor.

Oh, yes. And dress well when you go asking your questions. You want to show that you're serious, and at the same time give the cutter a sense of where you're coming from, clothes-wise.
 
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bgump

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Thanks for the response and thread.

I guess as a quick, general follow up question. Are the tailors at trunk shows known for being good. Or would I get a better fit by going to a store like Culwell if they have more measurements and fittings, with all else being equal in regards to construction of the suit?
 

Testudo_Aubreii

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Thanks for the response and thread.

I guess as a quick, general follow up question. Are the tailors at trunk shows known for being good. Or would I get a better fit by going to a store like Culwell if they have more measurements and fittings, with all else being equal in regards to construction of the suit?


There's no simple answer: the best way to get a handle on this is to read the Cutter & Tailor's Guide for Bespeakers. Bespoke always has the possibility of better fit than any MTM. In MTM, the person who measures for you is almost never the cutter--the person who makes the pattern for your garment. In bespoke, the person who measures you almost always cuts. So there's more of a chance of miscommunication between measurements and cutting in MTM than bespoke. IN MTM, there's always a limit to the number of measurements, fittings (if any), and alterations to the block pattern. In bespoke, in principle, the sky is the limit. A good bespoke cutter who does good work for you will give you a better fit than any MTM could, so long as the cutter's tailors do a good job at trimming and making up.
 

Astaroth

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First of all check if it is actually "bespoke". There are no formal definitions in most places and as such sometimes MTM is marketed as bespoke.

I dont know the company you mention at all but a quick look at their website/ store images etc and I would be very surprised if they arent MTM
 

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