MyTailor (Hemrajani Bros.) Appreciation/Discussion Thread

[JohnMRobie]

I'd like to ask a fabric recommendation in the same vein as @edinatlanta, but from the perspective of a novice on the sartorial journey. (I have three SuitSupply suits, but the fit on those is marginal at best. I will probably sell these.)

So, I had Divij make me a suit a while back and the fit is orders of magnitude better. It is a classic, single breasted, two button suit from navy VBC fabric. I'd like to commission another. What fabric and color do you all recommend?

Since this will only be my second proper suit, it will still be a standard business and life events suit. So, I'm thinking about keeping it single breasted, two button.

For reference, the VBC fabric on the left in the photo is the material for my first suit.

Have you thought about Drapers 4 ply from the Ascot book or Crispaire from Holland and Sherry - Depending where you live they can handle anything that’s not super cold. Medium/dark gray are always good. Charcoal can be a little dark for me but they both have a dark gray or mid gray I like. Other people swear by charcoal.

 

[nevaeh]

I think the prevailing wisdom under these circumstances, if you have navy, is to go charcoal or mid grey.

Other advice might be more appropriate with more info on job/location/personal style preferences.

Thank you, @ValidusLA, and @Jmr928. I'm a consultant, so this suit will mostly be for client meetings, business development events, and "life events" like weddings and nonprofit junior board meetings. I live in Chicago. Great question about style preference—I haven't thought about it before. Is "keeping it simple" an option? I like to be well-dressed, but in a sedate way that is not flashy.

 

[nevaeh]

Have you thought about Drapers 4 ply from the Ascot book or Crispaire from Holland and Sherry - Depending where you live they can handle anything that’s not super cold. Medium/dark gray are always good. Charcoal can be a little dark for me but they both have a dark gray or mid gray I like. Other people swear by charcoal.

I'm liking the suggestion of mid-gray! I'll check out the Drapers and Crispaire. I think both the Drapers and Crispaire might provide a bit more "texture" compared to the VBC? I'd prefer more "personality" in the fabric on a second suit.

Two questions. For a business suit, what do you all think about something like this as a mid-gray?



Might also ask Divij about a sportcoat to wear with jeans. What do you think of a greenish color, like this one that @Despos made for Kirby Allison? I love that color, but am curious about versatility. Any fabric recommendations for sportcoats?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Thank you, @ValidusLA, and @Jmr928. I'm a consultant, so this suit will mostly be for client meetings, business development events, and "life events" like weddings and nonprofit junior board meetings. I live in Chicago. Great question about style preference—I haven't thought about it before. Is "keeping it simple" an option? I like to be well-dressed, but in a sedate way that is not flashy.

Similar region, similar job. Both the fabrics I mentioned are perfectly fine for client meetings unless you get staffed in some small town somewhere, are pretty durable for travel whenever that fires back up, will take a crease for the trousers and don’t stand out too much. The only days I really need something heavier are pretty much those nasty days in January when the wind and cold are both miserable. Call it a 10 month fabric or so in Chicago.

 

[nevaeh]

Similar region, similar job. Both the fabrics I mentioned are perfectly fine for client meetings unless you get staffed in some small town somewhere, are pretty durable for travel whenever that fires back up, will take a crease for the trousers and don’t stand out too much. The only days I really need something heavier are pretty much those nasty days in January when the wind and cold are both miserable. Call it a 10 month fabric or so in Chicago.

Both these sound like the perfect fabrics for what I need. As for those cold, windy days, I find that no amount of fabric helps—only cursing under my breath and constantly questioning why I still live here keeps me warm. ?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Both these sound like the perfect fabrics for what I need. As for those cold, windy days, I find that no amount of fabric helps—only cursing under my breath and constantly questioning why I still live here keeps me warm. ?

“Something, something, the summers are great.” I mutter to myself as I try to not freeze as the lake effect makes me feel wet and cold.

 

[classicalthunde]

I'm liking the suggestion of mid-gray! I'll check out the Drapers and Crispaire. I think both the Drapers and Crispaire might provide a bit more "texture" compared to the VBC? I'd prefer more "personality" in the fabric on a second suit.

Two questions. For a business suit, what do you all think about something like this as a mid-gray?

View attachment 1682193

Might also ask Divij about a sportcoat to wear with jeans. What do you think of a greenish color, like this one that @Despos made for Kirby Allison? I love that color, but am curious about versatility. Any fabric recommendations for sportcoats?

View attachment 1682196

I would also suggest looking at the Smith Woollens Finmeresco book. I am pretty sure the 4-plys in Ascot and Finmeresco are the same cloth. I got SW2172 this spring from Divij, it’s a nice light charcoal/darkmid-grey

For a sport coat to wear with jeans I’d recommend something from the W. Bill Donegal or Shetland tweed book. Brown herringbone is a classic go-to recommendation, I have one that gets a lot of wear in the office and occasionally outside of it as well

 

[edinatlanta]

I would say a grey fabric your choice of charcoal or medium gray.

For a sport coat i jave a navy 2 patch jacket from holland and sherry. Its big on me now because i haven't lifted weight since covid and dont have time with my new job. But a navy or something blue with a bit of texture would be a good choice. My brown leno cloth i posted in here works really well too.

 

[Andy57]

If it weren't for the spread collars, Andy looks very late 30's,early 40s
in those suits ( and fedoras).

I wish In looked that young! ?

Perhaps one of my Budd shirts with the standard Budd point collar would complete the anachronism?

 

[Andy57]

I'd like to ask a fabric recommendation in the same vein as @edinatlanta, but from the perspective of a novice on the sartorial journey.

I'll add my voice to the recommendations for a mid-grey. Two button, single breasted is a good and classic option for a suit that won't stand out too much, which is crucially important to many on this forum! And a high-twist wool such as those recommended would be a great choice, too. Fox Air, Crispaire, even Fresco, are all good choices.

 

[edinatlanta]

Now i wait.

 

[edinatlanta]

I kinda wish ut was more chalky but it was right price right fabric right weight right general direction...

 

[Despos]

I kinda wish ut was more chalky but it was right price right fabric right weight right general direction...

3 piece or double breasted?

don't think chalky exists in a light weight worsted. Would have to be more flannel like to achieve the chalky look.

 

[edinatlanta]

3 piece or double breasted?

don't think chalky exists in a light weight worsted. Would have to be more flannel like to achieve the chalky look.

3p. We looked at some flannels and decided it would be too hot to wear here.

 

[Andy57]

I saw Divij today in San Jose. It was good to see him after so long. I had sent him a length of vintage Chinese ivory silk jacquard, about 3.5m long and half-width. I'm hoping Divij and his team can make some magic happen and conjure a dinner jacket out of it. I'm also looking at a pair of tartan dress trousers. I've a mind to see if I can spend NYE in Scotland this year, before heading to Florence for Pitti.