Cantabrigian
Distinguished Member
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- Mar 23, 2006
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I assume this is my explanation that you're mistaking - whether because it's your nature or because you don't care / understand what I wrote.
It's not the absence of padding that raises the jacket's shoulder near the shoulder seam. It's the presence of padding.
As I illustrated with the photos of jackets on a hanger, all jackets have this sort of padding.
It's only noticeable on the NSM jacket because there is no padding elsewhere to smooth the transition from shoulder to sleevehead.
It seems like gravity would offer a stronger objection to this theory than to any other that has been presented.
Some have been saying that the NSM shoulder line lifts off or levels off beyond the wearer's acromion, due to a lack of wadding or padding, causing the upturned, ski-jump Type N Shoulder shape. This truly baffles me. Not to be pedantic, but gravity tends to prevent exactly that sort of thing from happening. Unless a jacket is cut or structured by a tailor to do otherwise, it will fall with the drop-off of the wearer's own shoulders. This is not a matter of tailoring expertise. It's an understanding of two basic things: (1) the principle that cloth, like other things, falls with gravity unless physically propped up, and (2) the fact that other unpadded shoulders fall-off beyond the acromion, instead of staying suspended in mid-air. Such unpadded shoulders are represented by the Type R Shoulder illustrated above.
I assume this is my explanation that you're mistaking - whether because it's your nature or because you don't care / understand what I wrote.
It's not the absence of padding that raises the jacket's shoulder near the shoulder seam. It's the presence of padding.
As I illustrated with the photos of jackets on a hanger, all jackets have this sort of padding.
It's only noticeable on the NSM jacket because there is no padding elsewhere to smooth the transition from shoulder to sleevehead.
One potential explanation for the Type N Shoulder: the armscye is cut with a diameter that extends too high above the natural shoulder, and since it is structured, it lifts the jacket off the natural shoulder. This happens in RTW a lot.
It seems like gravity would offer a stronger objection to this theory than to any other that has been presented.