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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    No problem. You see it in a lot of A&S-style jackets, including in some of the Fred Astaire/Duke of Windsor photos. It's a relaxed, nonchalant aesthetic that some people like.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  2. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I think iammatt's Rubinacci jackets look great. His has this extended shoulder effect. It gives a very relaxed, leisurely, masculine feel. No more similar to an ill fitting jacket than a draped chest could be considered.

    I asked Dino and Mina if they could extend the shoulders on everything in my current order. I have my first fitting next month, so we'll see how far they were willing to go then.


    Vox, Unbel, and I were talking about this recently. Apparently, the A&S cases weren't designed to be like that. Those are more men having changed their shoulder shape with age and still wearing coats that were made for them when they were young. Very few people make an unstructured extended shoulder. I think the only person I've ever seen it on, done deliberately, is Matt.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
    2 people like this.
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've been talking to Vox about this exact issue actually. He says he's been having Mina work to fine-tune the shoulder shape and the future iterations will be more like what I'm arguing is correct.


    Ah, so popular satisfaction is definitive in your book. I don't consider that a tenable or admirable way to go about thinking about things, but I'm not you.

    The great thing about Styleforum is (or used to be) that it allows members to discuss and question tailors candidly and objectively. It will never mean anything to me simply that a tailor says this or that. Surely, as one who has experience working with bespoke tailors, you already understand why it is necessary to maintain healthy skepticism to get the best results. Tailors like to sell stuff, you know.
     
  4. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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  5. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    True, but you seem to be actively discounting everyone else's opinion on the matter, and holding yourself, and only yourself, as the true arbiter of style. Your dismissal of Despos' earlier post was indicative of that.

    Anyhoo, it's late and I'm done with this. To recap my position, its a minor issue, one that's hardly evident in real life and thus, not one I intend to lose any sleep over.
     
    3 people like this.
  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not discounting anybody. I just don't count opinions like votes. If someone wants to make a valid point (say, by discussing the history of the supposedly purposeful and identifiable shoulder line in question) they can feel free to do so.
     
  7. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    In that case, I will be certain to ping Chris about this when I see him later this week.
     
    2 people like this.
  8. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Foo:
    You seem to think NSM is inept, and consistently so (even if not uniformly so). What explains their lack of concern/skill? Why do they keep repeating their error and how does it happen so frequently? Many people, myself included, notice how eager they are to correct and adjust things, yet this shoulder treatment seems to persist. What do you thinkk they are thinking? Are they deluded? Charlatans? Mistaken? Uninformed? Unenlightened?
    Provincial?
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  9. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    This is the most horrid of of them all.
     
  10. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :)
    That is why it got its own line :)
     
  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No, I think they often execute a wonky shoulder line. It is that simple. There are other characteristics of their tailoring I don't like, but they aren't mistakes. I'm not sure why you are trying to read beyond what I have been extremely transparent about to begin with.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Have you guys decided whether I have to burn all my NsM jackets yet or not? Could somebody PM me when the final verdict is rendered?
     
  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wait so...honest question...if somebody produced, say, some AA photos of this same shoulder line, and maybe one other Neapolitan tailor, you would accept this feature as completely valid, but up until the manifestation of such arcana, it is absolutely beyond the pale and abhorrent? This must strike even you as ridiculous.

    I think we've clearly identified what we're talking about (a feature which I identified my post I linked earlier, which is from months ago). If it really bothers you, fine, don't get NsM jackets. If you like it, then this is a distinctive feature that you will have a hard time finding elsewhere. What else is there to argue about? Whether similar shoulder lines were admired in the 30s?
     
  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Pad-fuck shoulders indeed look very wonky. Maybe I should ask NSM do a pad-thai shoulder for my coat?
     
  15. haganah

    haganah Senior member

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    Anyone use Mina for a tux?
     
  16. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I haven't, but I have seen some tux jackets awaiitng fittings and they looked nice. If you go for peaks, think about how high you want them. Mina's default is to do them rather high. She will ask you at fittings if you like them this way, but it's good to be prepared with an answer.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  17. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    The world of iGentry could literally be ruined if one talented artist took up the task of drawing fake AA illustrations, then uploaded them onto the internet.

    Please, someone. Make this happen.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
    6 people like this.
  18. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    The last drawing is what I get on my right shoulder (yeah, right shoulder only) with RTW and MTM. It's something I'm trying to get fixed with my tailor; though he insists "that's how it should look", I think it's just a shoulder that doesn't fit. Whether NSM does it on purpose or not, I don't know.
     
  19. Butler

    Butler Senior member

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    + 100 For someone with less than 10 years of bespoke experience (and yes, there are people out there who remember vividly, how you dressed when first you arrived at Marianos doorstep), and no sartorial background apart from your recent relationship with LH, coupled with an (admittable admirable) entusiasm - it do seems that you consider yourself to be a master of aestetichs worthy of educating the rest of the world including Vox! :bigstar:
     
  20. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Without getting into this debate on shoulder lines (though I do think that these bumps will always be more evident when a coat is unpadded than if it were, and in accordance to one's shoulder line), I don't think that when one started bespeaking clothing is as important as the amount of time one has spent reading up on clothing in general. Many men have started bespeaking clothing when they're in their 20s and are now in their 50s, -- they dress well, yes -- but I don't think they're as conversant about tailoring and aesthetics as somebody who's been so obsessed that he spends as much time as he is working on studying clothing.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2013

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