my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

[hymo]

I know of two methods to sew the patches to the foreparts. One involves completely prefabricating the patch, laying it on the forepart, then sewing it to the forepart from the wrong side with a diagonal stitch by hand. Matching the patterns here is easy. The seam allowance in this way of make is hidden between the patch and its lining (if it has one).

The other method involves sewing the patch on the forepart with a sewing machine. If you think about it, this is impossible since the seam is in the inside of the pocket. Yet, tailors routinely do this in this part of the world, there is a technique to it. This way of affixing the patch does not allow for 100.0 % pattern matching. There is a tolerance of maybe +/- 2 mm. In this way of make the seam allowance is in the pocket space -- you can feel it with your fingers.

 

[F. Corbera]



You're a lot more anal about shapes than I am, as it turns out. There is a little bit of variation, I guess - they're not perfectly identical (how could they be unless he brought his paper-cut shapes?), but they're very similar in shape. I'd say they're far more similar than they're different. Same general shape, curve, wider bottom, slanted top. That's the house style. On the picture you posted of your new jacket, the pocket looked square, which varies a lot more from that style than anything you see in Parker's pics - again, it could have been the angle. The other pic is hard to gauge because it's not a close-up and it's quite stuffed as well. Anyhow...

Noticing something and caring about what one notices are two separate things.

Anyway, the main thing is that (1) the breast patches on my two NSM jackets are quite different (trapezoidal rather than a squashed full moon) than the numbers with which some of you are familiar and (2) I gave no input on the shapes on the patches.

Why this is so is something that only Mina or the tailor that made my jackets could tell you. While I can clearly see the difference myself, as I've mentioned earlier, it is not something that concerns me.

You noted earlier in this thread that the barchetta shape had changed. Maybe it is something like that, either a conscious decision or simply a reflection of different tailors working on the pockets.

 

[Despos]

...

I am going to monitor the outcome of that.
But if you find anyone who can match any pattern over a dart without killing the fabric with the iron, we will have another Nobel prize winner.

Will see if the client will snap a picture and post here for your amusement. Will I have to fly to Sweden or somewhere to receive this?

 

[Despos]



I know of two methods to sew the patches to the foreparts. One involves completely prefabricating the patch, laying it on the forepart, then sewing it to the forepart from the wrong side with a diagonal stitch by hand. Matching the patterns here is easy. The seam allowance in this way of make is hidden between the patch and its lining (if it has one).

The other method involves sewing the patch on the forepart with a sewing machine. If you think about it, this is impossible since the seam is in the inside of the pocket. Yet, tailors routinely do this in this part of the world, there is a technique to it. This way of affixing the patch does not allow for 100.0 % pattern matching. There is a tolerance of maybe +/- 2 mm. In this way of make the seam allowance is in the pocket space -- you can feel it with your fingers.

First paragraph is close, second is not. We sew the pocket by machine from the inside between the lining and the cloth with "0" tolerance for pattern matching and it really isn't very difficult. Pretty simple really. Easier than you might think.

My patch pockets vary just as much or even more. Don't care for the cookie cutter approach. Make them however I want at the moment. Artistic license.

 

[F. Corbera]

 

[hymo]

I tried the second method and this was the closest I came to pattern matching

 

[Cravate_Noire]

...

I am going to monitor the outcome of that.
But if you find anyone who can match any pattern over a dart without killing the fabric with the iron, we will have another Nobel prize winner.

Will see if the client will snap a picture and post here for your amusement. Will I have to fly to Sweden or somewhere to receive this?

For darting a pocket? Or not extending the dart underneath the pocket and saying that it does?

 

[Despos]

The bottom edge of the pocket and the end of the dart have to sync. That's the only way I could make it happen. It's not clever, just common sense.

 

[Cravate_Noire]



The bottom edge of the pocket and the end of the dart have to sync. That's the only way I could make it happen. It's not clever, just common sense.

Well, half a Nobel Prize then .
But did you dart the pocket or does the dartend exactly underneath [above] it like in Vox "open front" jacket (of which I am a great fan) ?

http://steeds-view.blogspot.com/2011/10/work-in-progresspart-1.html

http://steeds-view.blogspot.com/2011/11/work-in-progresspart-3ready-for.html

 

[Sterling Gillette]

Voxorbera, can you please take your pictures at even greater aperture next time? The shape of those pockets is recognizable with zero depth of field anyway...

 

[Eustace Tilley]

You're a lot more anal about shapes than I am, as it turns out. There is a little bit of variation, I guess - they're not perfectly identical (how could they be unless he brought his paper-cut shapes?), but they're very similar in shape. I'd say they're far more similar than they're different. Same general shape, curve, wider bottom, slanted top. That's the house style. On the picture you posted of your new jacket, the pocket looked square, which varies a lot more from that style than anything you see in Parker's pics - again, it could have been the angle. The other pic is hard to gauge because it's not a close-up and it's quite stuffed as well. Anyhow...

What gdl said. There is no doubt that there will be garment-to-garment variation on a handmade product, but, by-and-large, there is a consistent shape and style to NSM's patch pockets.

EDIT: Admittedly, Vox's patch is quite different from all the other NSM coats I've seen. Not sure what happened there.

 

[Manton]

the one vox posted actually looks almost identical to the patch as done by Raphael. I don't have an NSM patch but the pics I see look like Solito and like A&S. Curvier.

 

[wmb]



 What gdl said. There is no doubt that there will be garment-to-garment variation on a handmade product, but, by-and-large, there is a consistent shape and style to NSM's patch pockets.

EDIT: Admittedly, Vox's patch is quite different from all the other NSM coats I've seen. Not sure what happened there.

+1 and it looks similar in shape to his other patch coats

 

[medtech_expat]

With the notable exception of the linen (last pic), the others appear fairly consistent stylistically - almost a truncated teardrop with a flattened bottom.

 

[whnay.]

You guys are still talking about patch pockets?