my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Nope, just plain Jane patches.

    The only thing I requested was that there be three patches on two of the four odd jackets in this batch.

    The other two are patch hip, barchetta breast.

    The patch breast is not really square...bottom is wider than the top. But, it sounds like you guys got a different rounder shape.

    Honestly, I don't think it makes much of a difference

    I have three or four (can't remember) odd jackets in the next batch...those are all three patches. So, we'll see!
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2011


  2. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here's a few idolatrous macro shots of some NSM pockets. In general there's a common askew swoosh shape, but with each jacket I have there's a little variation. Maybe it depends on the fabric or the individual tailor or how many caffes have been consumed that day.

    tan linen/silk/wool
    [​IMG]

    navy hopsack
    [​IMG]

    navy cashmere/wool
    [​IMG]

    and a barchetta
    [​IMG]

    a few hip pockets
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  3. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Sounds like it may be simply the angle of your picture and the way the coat was hanging ? Did you post other pics of it?
     


  4. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Not yet, but the other jacket from this batch with three patches is the same...I posted it earlier in this thread, but here's a close-up:

    [​IMG]

    Anyway, you can see from the sequence of photographs that Parker posted that there is considerable variation, which is consistent with what I explained earlier that the tailor is often responsible for the pocketing. I think Cravate is referring to this.

    I'm sure that Mina describes what she wants when speaks to (or narrarates a video for) her tailors, but it's not quite the same thing as having the cutter style and fit you. If different tailors make the pockets, or if the same tailor free-hands the patch, there will be variation. It's clear as day in Parker's photos.

    When I got my first two patch pocket jackets from Steed, they had the large, square patches about which ET complained earlier in this thread as being the stock Savile Row patch. The shape, as it turns out, is exactly what the pockets look like in a flapped pocket, but with the inside out. You can see a facsimile of this in those photographs that Manton and others posted of the tacking of interior pockets showing up on the exterior of Neapolitan summer jackets: an outline of the inside hip pocket. SR squares off the interior pockets, and when an SR tailor makes a patch version these days, well, the cut is the same.

    What ended up bothering me about the patches on first two Steed jackets was not the shape, but the size: the pockets were gigantic. I discussed this with Edwin afterwards, and he then told me that when he started at A&S, they were still producing an antique patch pocket shape that was smaller and secondarily curvier. He then cut the pattern for these, which now are my standard...and because the cutter took over from the tailor, they are the same shape and size every time.

    Based on what I see in Parker's photographs, and the example of my own jackets, I think it is a stretch to say that NSM has a consistent shape.

    Is consistency desirable or not? I don't know, but it's not a big deal for me when it comes to the patch shape.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2011


  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Put one hand in your pocket and you'll have a good look there.

    Your squares have become rather effusive of late.
     


  6. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    I forgot to wear Chelseas.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2011


  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Some tailors do free hand pocket shapes and some use patterns. If someone wants a consistent shape, size or whatever, you could ask to use the same pattern.
    Personally I don't care if they are triangles but I do want the breast patch and lower patches to resemble each other to have a sense of belonging. These don't and some of your Steed's don't.
    I like a bit of a teardrop shape but not on plaids. Better to align things with patterns in the cloth. The physical pocket shape doesn't contrast and conflict with the cloth pattern that way.
    Almost all the barchetta's in this thread have been off on matching the patterns in the cloth. Parker's here is off a full horizontal stripe . Take this as observation not criticism, I can't help myself, that's what I see when pictures are posted. Just callin' balls and strikes.

    Vox, I couldn't figure out if you have a low right or left shoulder but I can tell from this coat it's the left. How can I tell...???
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2011


  8. GTR

    GTR Senior member

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    a-nal-propos

     


  9. davesmith

    davesmith Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    One day I am going to dress like this!! Seamless.

     


  10. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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  11. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    You have clearly deserved another Nobel Prize :).
     


  12. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    I am going to monitor the outcome of that.
    But if you find anyone who can match any pattern over a dart without killing the fabric with the iron, we will have another Nobel prize winner.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2011


  13. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    I think that's not the problem here. Well, it certainly is a problem, but not the most important one. Look how the pocket isn't even matched at the top left corner near the lapel. I think the jacket might have been altered in a late fitting process which might have led to a repositioning of the pocket. Something which your tailors would never do because they get everything right in the first step.
     


  14. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    It's matching there (top left corner) or do do I see something different??

    One fitting for everything (if first or forward is free), otherwise recut for major flaws pls. thx.
    btw. rubi 4, "mine" 1 for first order.
    that is fittings, not points (though the result was perfect in the end and rubi was also my recommendation).
     


  15. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    You're a lot more anal about shapes than I am, as it turns out. There is a little bit of variation, I guess - they're not perfectly identical (how could they be unless he brought his paper-cut shapes?), but they're very similar in shape. I'd say they're far more similar than they're different. Same general shape, curve, wider bottom, slanted top. That's the house style. On the picture you posted of your new jacket, the pocket looked square, which varies a lot more from that style than anything you see in Parker's pics - again, it could have been the angle. The other pic is hard to gauge because it's not a close-up and it's quite stuffed as well. Anyhow...
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2011


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