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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.
prices are listed on his website. in the ballpark of the english makers and scheer. still ahead of most of the viennese makers in his league.
This does not exist.
quote name="F. Corbera" url="/t/207054/my-visit-to-napoli-mina-napoli-su-misura/1425#post_5018498"]
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Hate on this
Yes it does. There's a default patch pocket shape that is common to all NSM coats' unless the customer asks for something else. That is called a house style. Now if there's something specific you're trying to say, please invest more than 3 seconds in a post and explain your point.
Not to complicate your theory, but I made no mention of patch pocket shapes. What you see on mine is what Mina or her tailor decided to put on them, with no input from me.
No, sorry, this is a reality of the production process.
Why? Isn't it simpler to make things the same? Or are you saying that it depends on who the coat gets outsourced to and each worker does things their own way?
What Hans und Fritz are saying is that it is common for the division of labor between cutter/designer on one hand and the tailor on the other to fall at a line beyond which the tailor is entirely responsible for the pocketing.
The differences go mostly unobserved because generally tailors for the same producer often think similarly...and because most of the pocket is hidden from initial sight except...
Ta da! Patch pockets, the shapes of which are an SF obsession because of the online practices of (1) staring at static photographs for days or months and (2) the idolatry of the macro or cropped in photo.
It's your tailor's responsibility to obsess over these things for your satisfaction with the garment. Wear and enjoy, no fuss.
Mina has discussed with me, on more than one occasion, her default patch p[ocket style and how she arrived at the design. So, despite what our German friends contend, there is an implicit house style that her tailors adhere too.
Btw, A+S have also noted, with some pride, that their patch pockets are shaplier than the square-ish monstrosities offered by their SR competitors. So they have a house style as well. Which should really come as no surprise.
Well, then I didn't get the default then. I hope this means that I'm special.
The patches Edwin is doing now for me are really great. I had them retrofitted to my earlier jackets. They're the A&S shape from the 80s and earlier. I think that they're more nifty than anything Italian that I've seen. Best breast pocket patch that I've ever seen was on an early 1960s Oxxford...I'll post up a photo in a bit.
I'm trying to remember the guy on SF who drew out his own patches, cut them in paper, and took them to his (Asian) tailor.
I wonder if he takes recipes to (Asian) restaurants.
vox - unless I missed it, you haven't explained what the rest of that coat looks like. Does it have flapped patch pockets (envelope?) at the hips like the drawing you posted? I'm trying to understand why Mina would put a square breast patch pocket here instead of her usual round one
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