My silk suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by cuffthis, Feb 22, 2005.

  1. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

    Messages:
    826
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2004
    Location:
    New Hope, PA
    Cream colored Shantung Silk 2 button, SB, with deep side vents, no breast pocket (long story - big miscommunication). Made for me by Joseph Partito of Philadelphia (1989). [​IMG] Incredible hand work, including the trousers, gorgeous buttonholes. They did great work. But this was my lesson. Never have a tailor make you a suit out of fabric you don't like. [​IMG]
     


  2. Sevcom

    Sevcom Senior member

    Messages:
    342
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2002
    Location:
    New York
    Terrific silhouette and overall look. Perhaps you should take more trips to tropical climes as an excuse to wear the suit?

    One question though: what's with the jacket's pockets? They don't quite look jetted, but not flapped either.
     


  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Hell, I would wear that fabric. I prefer dupioni, but that looks awfully nice.

    Are those welt pockets at the hips? That's sort of unusual ...
     


  4. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

    Messages:
    1,027
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2003
    I think you need to go to Aruba for a few days - blame it on sartorial research, you had to know how the suit would do in a tropical climate.

    Thanx for sharing - very nice. ...now let's hear the story on the pocket, sounds like a funny tail of woe
     


  5. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

    Messages:
    826
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2004
    Location:
    New Hope, PA
    We are planning to buy a house in Jamaica. That is definately a warm climate. But I don't think my suits will get much use down there, even if Ralph Lauren invites me to his house at Round Hill.

    And, yes, the pockets are welted. I kinda like them, as the flap pckets add even more to my hips and a simple jetted pocket seemed too formal or international, neither of which was what I was searching for at the time.
     


  6. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

    Messages:
    5,663
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    No, that suit is absolutely brilliant. I'd get plenty of use out of that. I sort of like the lack of a breast pocket.
     


  7. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

    Messages:
    826
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2004
    Location:
    New Hope, PA
    This was the 3rd item I had bespoke for me. The first two were with Alan Flusser back when he was at 16 E. 52nd St. I was introduced to Partito in Philly by a client of mine (who at the time was in a LOT higher tax bracket than me - I know. I was his accountant).

    At a meeting with my client, I commented how nice his suit fit and he told me who made it for him. Being the Type A personality that made him successful at his business, he immediately called his tailor and told him I am coming over at 5pm that day for a fitting. I reluctantly agreed.

    Well the tailor and I start a nice conversation and working relationship. I call and stop in whenever I am in Philly, which was monthly back then.

    On one of my visits, he informs me he has excess silk suiting fabric from a cancelled order. I look, say it looks nice and 5 weeks and 2 fittings later, viola., the pictures you see.

    Missing breast pocket occurred when he said he called to see how much of an angle I wanted breast pocket to be, since I specified it be angled in our initial meeting. With my first two bespoke items from Flusser, I learned that nothing should go straight across the body. The very slight angle upward of the breast pocket was important. Somehow, since he thought I didn't get back to him with the correct upward angle, there ended up with no pocket at all. I was very unhappy at first but since the coat is custom, informed people will assume that's the way I wanted it.

    And that is the story behind the missing breast pocket.
     


  8. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

    Messages:
    10,448
    Likes Received:
    74
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    A really beautiful suit. Thanks for sharing.
     


  9. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

    Messages:
    1,586
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2005
    Location:
    Paris, France
    Jil Sander make suits without breast pocket. Never thought it looked unusual.

    .luc
     


  10. Alias

    Alias Senior member

    Messages:
    1,536
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2003
    Location:
    Washington DC
    Oddly enough, the welted pockets attract more of my attention than the lack of breast pocket does.

    I'd argue that breast pockets are pretty superfluous these days. No one uses them, aside from us few who do own pocketsquares. I don't think anyone would care if your suit doesn't have a breast pocket, especially given the "informal" nature of the material.

    Very nice suit.
     


  11. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Senior member

    Messages:
    1,141
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2004
    Location:
    SE Michigan (frequent NYC visitor)
    I think that the lack of the breast pocket looks like a planned detail because of the welted pockets, which are in themselves not customary. The lack of the breast pocket emphasizes the custom nature of the suit and seems to be a good detail in this context. Very handsome suit.
     


  12. pilgrim

    pilgrim Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2004
    Location:
    Manchester, England
    Nice looking suit. Seems to have a really lux feel to it.
     


  13. Etruscan

    Etruscan Senior member

    Messages:
    135
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    Boston
    I agree; the pocket detailing caught my eye first, rather than the absence of a breast pocket. The suit is very handsome, Cuffthis. It has the idiosyncratic and self-possessed quality one associates with bespoke garments, in which accepted standards can be adapted readily to flatter the form and suit the taste of the discerning individual.

    I have one Harris tweed sport coat (certainly NOT bespoke but from Hugo Boss, which I know will prompt groans and shudders) that has no breast pocket, but the ticket pocket and elongated tabbed collar (can you tell I'm not quite sure what to call this feature, which is a functional closure?) also, I think, make its absence look less like an oversight than a deliberate omission.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by