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My new overcoat -- pictures and questions (tailors to the rescue!)

literasyme

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Some time ago, I posted a thread about a bunch of disappointing overcoats from Yoox; both thread and disappointment ended with the arrival of my new Sartorio coat. Well, it's back from the tailor now, and I have pictures of the fit and the shoulder (which, while quite Neapolitan -- I think -- is not -- I think -- spalla camicia).

First, a couple of shots of the fit. I'm wearing a fairly thick jacket underneath the coat, which together with my posing posture explains the less-than-snug collar. I doesn't usually stand off my neck like that. How does it look through the body? The vent could lie a little flatter, but that will entail shedding a few pounds rather than further tailoring, I fear.

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Here's an issue, though -- and my plea for help to the tailors on the forum:

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What's going on with the quarters? I'm fairly certain that they're not flying out (rather than open) like that because the coat's tight (none of the buttons feel like they're under stress). Could this have something to do with the canvas? I've also noticed that when I push my hands into the pockets, the bottom of the coat is lifted up (see the awful photo on the right for an illustration); the same thing happens to the lining, which winds up oddly crumpled and pulled out of shape. I suppose it's because the pocket is putting pressure on the canvas, which is attached at the bottom, but is that normal? I haven't noticed anything quite so pronounced in any of my sport coats, and this is my only canvased overcoat. Is there an easy fix?

Finally, here's the shoulder. It's completely unpadded, and the size of the sleeves allows for a remarkable range of free movement. However, the sleeve doesn't fall down from underneath the shoulder (as it would in a spalla camicia), but rises up slightly -- this, I suppose, is the rollino, caused by the closed seam construction. The effect was much more pronounced out of the box, and is already beginning to give way to a more natural look:

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Chips

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I'm no expert, but I think overall it looks great. As far as the quarters pulling apart, it seems to me that from the picture on the top row, far right, showing the rear view of the coat; it seems to be a bit too tight around the lower hip/ seat area. Might be the reason.

But from the front view, top photo on the left, it looks fine. You don't have anything in your pockets do you? Jacket or trousers?
 

TheFoo

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Some of my spalla camicia shoulders look very similar to that actually. Apparently, it has something to do with the cloth, the way the sewer happen to sew it that day, etc.
 

TRINI

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Looks good to me - you might need to let me know what tailor you used.
 

lee_44106

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coat looks good as is. You are spending too much time obsessed with the theoretical looks of spella this and spilla that when probably 2 people in the world would be able to tell the difference and none of whom resides in the states.

Relax, have fun, and enjoy your beautiful coat.
 

stickonatree

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i also think it looks fine, and that you are too nitpicky. you're not a static model, when you move the coat moves as well, there is no such thing as perfection. wear it in good health and enjoy it!
 

JayJay

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Looks good to me, but I prefer my overcoat sleeves to be a tad longer than what I see in the pic.
 

Wicky

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Originally Posted by JayJay
Looks good to me, but I prefer my overcoat sleeves to be a tad longer than what I see in the pic.

+1
 

greekonomist

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It looks good to me. Too bad for me the darn thing is sold out on Yoox!
 

literasyme

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Thanks all -- I am happy with the coat as is, but the quarters thing is a slight annoyance. For all I know, it might go away as the coat shapes itself to my body, or even with a pressing. But if there is an underlying construction issue which can be easily fixed, I'd rather get it done than not... As for the shoulder, I really like it, but I thought it was unusual enough to warrant illustration. I'm almost positive, Mafoo, that it's a closed seam construction, as I can feel the seam allowance extending into the sleeve (I also can't see any stitches on the shoulder side of the arm scythe). Triniboy, my tailor's Xavier Custom Tailor on Yonge and St Mary. Very nice guy, and as far as I can tell, very competent, too. He did a great job letting out the sleeves as far as possible, shifting the buttons & extending the lining, which didn't go as far as the cloth.
 

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