literasyme
Senior Member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2008
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Some time ago, I posted a thread about a bunch of disappointing overcoats from Yoox; both thread and disappointment ended with the arrival of my new Sartorio coat. Well, it's back from the tailor now, and I have pictures of the fit and the shoulder (which, while quite Neapolitan -- I think -- is not -- I think -- spalla camicia).
First, a couple of shots of the fit. I'm wearing a fairly thick jacket underneath the coat, which together with my posing posture explains the less-than-snug collar. I doesn't usually stand off my neck like that. How does it look through the body? The vent could lie a little flatter, but that will entail shedding a few pounds rather than further tailoring, I fear.
Here's an issue, though -- and my plea for help to the tailors on the forum:
What's going on with the quarters? I'm fairly certain that they're not flying out (rather than open) like that because the coat's tight (none of the buttons feel like they're under stress). Could this have something to do with the canvas? I've also noticed that when I push my hands into the pockets, the bottom of the coat is lifted up (see the awful photo on the right for an illustration); the same thing happens to the lining, which winds up oddly crumpled and pulled out of shape. I suppose it's because the pocket is putting pressure on the canvas, which is attached at the bottom, but is that normal? I haven't noticed anything quite so pronounced in any of my sport coats, and this is my only canvased overcoat. Is there an easy fix?
Finally, here's the shoulder. It's completely unpadded, and the size of the sleeves allows for a remarkable range of free movement. However, the sleeve doesn't fall down from underneath the shoulder (as it would in a spalla camicia), but rises up slightly -- this, I suppose, is the rollino, caused by the closed seam construction. The effect was much more pronounced out of the box, and is already beginning to give way to a more natural look:
First, a couple of shots of the fit. I'm wearing a fairly thick jacket underneath the coat, which together with my posing posture explains the less-than-snug collar. I doesn't usually stand off my neck like that. How does it look through the body? The vent could lie a little flatter, but that will entail shedding a few pounds rather than further tailoring, I fear.
Here's an issue, though -- and my plea for help to the tailors on the forum:
What's going on with the quarters? I'm fairly certain that they're not flying out (rather than open) like that because the coat's tight (none of the buttons feel like they're under stress). Could this have something to do with the canvas? I've also noticed that when I push my hands into the pockets, the bottom of the coat is lifted up (see the awful photo on the right for an illustration); the same thing happens to the lining, which winds up oddly crumpled and pulled out of shape. I suppose it's because the pocket is putting pressure on the canvas, which is attached at the bottom, but is that normal? I haven't noticed anything quite so pronounced in any of my sport coats, and this is my only canvased overcoat. Is there an easy fix?
Finally, here's the shoulder. It's completely unpadded, and the size of the sleeves allows for a remarkable range of free movement. However, the sleeve doesn't fall down from underneath the shoulder (as it would in a spalla camicia), but rises up slightly -- this, I suppose, is the rollino, caused by the closed seam construction. The effect was much more pronounced out of the box, and is already beginning to give way to a more natural look: